I'm running the HPF bronse clutch. My last time out at the track, the disc welded its self to the aluminuym flywheel during a burnout. The flywheel friction area was very scored and I had HPF redo the disc for $125. I am now using the stock flywheel with the same clutch so hopefully that doesn't happen again. Other than the welding problem, I do like the HPF clutch and its never slipped once running mostly 1.8 60fts with DR's.
HPF full face clutch disc slipping
- Thread starter mk3ukr
- Start date
mk3ukr said:
I again have been running the HPF 6 pucks disk. 1.5-1.6 60's on it with slicks and holds fine for me. ??
Duane
Dang Duane, now I really feel bad about my 2.2 60' times. I think my best is 2.0something. I can't find it. I've got like thirty slips and can't find my fastest time. I'm just now getting used to my drag radials though. My other runs were on street tires...............lol
suprahero said:
Drag radials give wheel hop.Not all the time but they do. I have run ET Streets for a year now and have not any troubles. Sometimes I rush and get crappy 60's like 1.68-1.70's but when I take my time as you can see in some vids..(don't care for reaction time LOL) I do great 60's! I just hope with my new set-up that my car will launch similar to the last set-up I just took off. Bigger turbo and more power might make it difficult. Well, if the torque is the same or close to it, it should be no problem.
Duane
i'm very interested in how the HPF bronze clutch will hold and wether or not it will weld to a stock flywheel b/c i've been hearing alot of bad things about the hpf clutches but a clutch that holds 600hp and is rebuildable for 125 is almost irresistable
89supturbo said:
I keep saying this..mine has been fine..*this is a recording (insert area code here)*
Duane
drjonez said:
Yes with OEM flywheel. I actually JUST got a another new OEM flywheel from Toyota
Duane
upgradedsupra said:
Duane, incredible 60' time. Do you drop clutch or slip it through the 1st gear?
mk3ukr said:
OK, RPS 6-puck slips like crazy even on 5th gear when step on gas from 3500rpm. All this f#ck up with HPF disc was my fault of course. Time to buy new HPF 6-puck clutch and OEM flywheel.
Any body care to explain why OEM FW works better with ferramic clutches. Aluminium FW inserts compatible with most ceramic clutches AFAIK and I would love to keep my lightweight FW and change insert only.
Is it because lightweight FW accelerate at much higher rate then heavy OEM ? :icon_conf
Thanks
My "guess" would be as I stated earlier that the Friction material on the Aluminium Flywheel is a close match to the material in the Disc that coupled with the fact that there may not be very good heat transfer between the Friction surface and the aluminium would cause hot spots that are close to the melting point.
If there was thermal paste between to 2 flywheel materials it "shouldn't" happen but I can't think of a way to keep it in there!
If there was thermal paste between to 2 flywheel materials it "shouldn't" happen but I can't think of a way to keep it in there!
IJ. said:
Ian, you know everything :icon_bigg
It's easier to take decisiion when I know the reason behind it. It is very clear from pictures that FW was overheated more then pressure plate
mk3ukr said:
Well not really but I worked for a few years in the industry as a kid so picked up a few things!
well, its quite possible that since both the PP and the flywheel are USED... that the step is COMPLETELY wrong now. the clutch system is designed to work within a small range of thickness between the flywheel and pp. on a fresh PP and flywheel w/ a proper step, the clutch will loose its clamping force as the material expends. the PP can only compress so far, once you lose the disc thickness, you lose that clamping force and thats why your clutch ultimately slips when its "worn out". alot of the time, the diaphragm and clamping force is virtually unchanged.
plus, hand-sanding the PP and flywheel isnt always a good solutoin. i mean, its hard to remove even a few thousandths of material from JUST sanding/honing/polishing by hand. but, the runout or thickness variation that results from anything but a Blanchard-ground surface can cause bad chatter and uneven clamping force due to lack of contact patch.
i would recommend getting a new friction plate for the flywheel and a new clutch. that would most likely solve all your problems since it sounds like it all stems from reusing old parts.
Btw, Duane... does your launching technique resemble an AWD launch technique? i really had to change my style when trying to launch my old AWD DSM. no clutch dumping or any of those shenanigans.
plus, hand-sanding the PP and flywheel isnt always a good solutoin. i mean, its hard to remove even a few thousandths of material from JUST sanding/honing/polishing by hand. but, the runout or thickness variation that results from anything but a Blanchard-ground surface can cause bad chatter and uneven clamping force due to lack of contact patch.
i would recommend getting a new friction plate for the flywheel and a new clutch. that would most likely solve all your problems since it sounds like it all stems from reusing old parts.
Btw, Duane... does your launching technique resemble an AWD launch technique? i really had to change my style when trying to launch my old AWD DSM. no clutch dumping or any of those shenanigans.