How to tow a Supra with Dakota...
- Thread starter suprarx7nut
- Start date
Used to work for U-haul. The satellite centers (gas stations, etc) aren't usually to picky about that info. The Main centers have a guide book they go by. Basically if what you're towing = more than 3/4 the weight of the towing vehicle they won't hook you up. So yeah just tell em you're towing a MR2 or del sol or something light. They also aren't supposed to hook up to bumper hitches, you know where the ball is in the step of the bumper, because most bumpers don't have the recommended capacity, usually a class 3 hitch is required (up to 5000lb tow vehicle weight). With that in mind the full trailer weighs about 1500lbs, adding to that a 3500lb supra you're right at 5000. Just my 2cents on why U-haul does what it does. Not saying I agree, just giving info out.
i towed a 88 targa w.o a motor on a full car uhaul trailer with my suburban. didnt have any problems with them, told them i was towin a supra and they hooked me up.
lol, just tell em ur towin some smaller car, instead of the supra..
lol, just tell em ur towin some smaller car, instead of the supra..
So I looked into the towing capacity of the Dodge...
10,500 lbs towing capacity. Its a 5.2 liter auto with the towing package. Can't tow a supra MY ASS!!!
The hitch on the truck is rated for 7500 lbs, so I guess that's my real limit.
I'll be telling them I'm towing a 1989 mr2.
And once again I plan on getting the full trailer, not just the dolly.
10,500 lbs towing capacity. Its a 5.2 liter auto with the towing package. Can't tow a supra MY ASS!!!
The hitch on the truck is rated for 7500 lbs, so I guess that's my real limit.
I'll be telling them I'm towing a 1989 mr2.
And once again I plan on getting the full trailer, not just the dolly.
suprarx7nut;1042006 said:So after reviewing the existing threads on towing, I am utterly confused.
I will be picking up a non-running turbo 89
But UHAUL says it doesn't weigh enough to tow it.
I imagine if I go to UHAUL with the Dakota, they will refuse to hook it to the hitch because it doesn't meet their "weight" requirements.
Any suggestions? Should I just pay a tow company to tow it? I figure that'd be about 200 bucks.
That is because Dodge sucks. I can show you all a video to prove it.
I pulled a 95 5.2 V8 Dakota from Federal and Alameda to Hill Top past Parker into Elizabeth with my 7MGE W58 Supra. And you should know exactly where I am talking about.
Jeez...I towed my supra on my girlfriends dads uhual dolly to school with a v6 blazer and it was perfectly fine.....I agree with everyone on telling them or towing something else.
theres not alot of weight difference between a 95 dakota and an na mkiii. the dakota has more hp and torque.
Nick M;1043250 said:
What is because Dodge sucks? What are you referring to? Did I complain about Dodge at all? I'm confused.
And yes, I know where you are talking about. I'll be going from east Boulder county to Littleton, fwiw.
OK I used to work alot with hitches, trailers, brake controllers, weight distribution kits, 5th wheel hitches, trailer brakes, etc... etc... etc...
Just because you CAN tow something doesn't mean it's A safe or B not causing some sort of damage.
Dakota should be fine with a supra, the main reason they balk is the weight ratio. And yes, it's purely for insurance reasons in most cases, sometimes it's in safety reasons.
That being said, I'll explain some things about towing - none of this directed at the OP, it's just to get rid of some mis-information.
If you have a hitch on your vehicle that says XXXXlb capacity, it doesn't mean that is the vehicle capacity. Check your owners manual for TOWING capacity.
If your vehicle says your GVW is XXXXX that does not mean you can tow XXXXX.
Hitch balls are NOT universal. There's 3 main sizes, 1 7/8", 2" and 2 5/16th", there's also different size shanks on balls, usually 3/4" for a class 2 up to 3500lbs, 1" for class 3 5000 and 1 1/4" shanks for a class 4 up to 7500-10000. There's some odd-ball sizes as well but thats the major ones. If your reciever is 2" ball and you're using a 1 7/8" ball you're in danger of disconnecting while driving down the road ( cross your safety chains when hooking them up, it may save the trailer/load in case something like this happens ).
If you have a hitch installed CHECK ALL THE BOLTS. I don't care if it was professional, mistakes happen, check em and re-tighten em before/after your first tow.
" my small truck can pull a full car trailer with a buick roadmaster on it! " Sure, but you're also lifting the weight off the front wheels of your vehicle and reducing the control you have over steering in emergency situations. You're also overloading your suspension as well as most likely your transmission. Whats that burning smell? That'd be your transmission. You are most likely also overloading your brakes.
Towing capacity is based off MANY factors, transmission strength, braking strength, suspension strength, engine strength, vehicle weight vs. trailer loaded weight, tongue weight of the trailer, if the vehicle/trailer is equiped with trailer brakes/brake controller, is a weight distribtion kit being used, the list goes on.
Anyway, this is just information for you all out there. Take it how you want.
Murd
Just because you CAN tow something doesn't mean it's A safe or B not causing some sort of damage.
Dakota should be fine with a supra, the main reason they balk is the weight ratio. And yes, it's purely for insurance reasons in most cases, sometimes it's in safety reasons.
That being said, I'll explain some things about towing - none of this directed at the OP, it's just to get rid of some mis-information.
If you have a hitch on your vehicle that says XXXXlb capacity, it doesn't mean that is the vehicle capacity. Check your owners manual for TOWING capacity.
If your vehicle says your GVW is XXXXX that does not mean you can tow XXXXX.
Hitch balls are NOT universal. There's 3 main sizes, 1 7/8", 2" and 2 5/16th", there's also different size shanks on balls, usually 3/4" for a class 2 up to 3500lbs, 1" for class 3 5000 and 1 1/4" shanks for a class 4 up to 7500-10000. There's some odd-ball sizes as well but thats the major ones. If your reciever is 2" ball and you're using a 1 7/8" ball you're in danger of disconnecting while driving down the road ( cross your safety chains when hooking them up, it may save the trailer/load in case something like this happens ).
If you have a hitch installed CHECK ALL THE BOLTS. I don't care if it was professional, mistakes happen, check em and re-tighten em before/after your first tow.
" my small truck can pull a full car trailer with a buick roadmaster on it! " Sure, but you're also lifting the weight off the front wheels of your vehicle and reducing the control you have over steering in emergency situations. You're also overloading your suspension as well as most likely your transmission. Whats that burning smell? That'd be your transmission. You are most likely also overloading your brakes.
Towing capacity is based off MANY factors, transmission strength, braking strength, suspension strength, engine strength, vehicle weight vs. trailer loaded weight, tongue weight of the trailer, if the vehicle/trailer is equiped with trailer brakes/brake controller, is a weight distribtion kit being used, the list goes on.
Anyway, this is just information for you all out there. Take it how you want.
Murd