How to fix Vacuum Pressure with only 1 source.

dumbo

Supramania Contributor
Jul 16, 2008
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Albera, Too Far North
Use the damn brake booster before the check valve, inline.

Whatever Your Heart Desires
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
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Manifold---->Distribution Block---->check valve--->Brake booster



Hope that helps.

EDIT: The lines and arrows pointed towards "Whatever your Heart Desires" are supposed to come from "Distribution Block"
 

92nsx

Supramania Contributor
Sep 30, 2005
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Clearwater, MN
tErbo b00st;1281555 said:
No one else is running everything from one vacuum port, which means your not finding your other ones. which also means that they could be open and exposed to the atmosphere. Which could be the cause to your car troubles

Are you sure no one else is running one vacuum port???? BTW I am for all other functions besides the brake booster and it is awesome. There is no problems, easier to route lines, easier to hook up aftermarket parts that need vac./boost. Plus it is easy to check for vacuum leaks. But I also have the brake booster running off of its own 1/4 npt port on the rear of the manifold. The extra ports Im not using yet just get capped off with no problem.

Also on the OEM manifold setup there is only 3 vacuum ports. One main one on the front of the manifold witch supplies the J shape vacuum tube, one small one on the rear for the heater valve and cruise control, and one for the brake booster.

Edit: here is a pic of the one I made. It is just zipped tied to the brake booster.

p1281831_1.jpg
 
Last edited:

tErbo b00st

Hard Ass
Mar 20, 2007
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92nsx;1281831 said:
Are you sure no one else is running one vacuum port???? BTW I am for all other functions besides the brake booster and it is awesome. There is no problems, easier to route lines, easier to hook up aftermarket parts that need vac./boost. Plus it is easy to check for vacuum leaks. But I also have the brake booster running off of its own 1/4 npt port on the rear of the manifold. The extra ports Im not using yet just get capped off with no problem.

Also on the OEM manifold setup there is only 3 vacuum ports. One main one on the front of the manifold witch supplies the J shape vacuum tube, one small one on the rear for the heater valve and cruise control, and one for the brake booster.

Running from one vacuum port is a bad idea. My statement was pointed towards the 7M crowd...like I said I don't have much experience with the 7M, but it seems as though everyone else has multiple vacuum ports. On every other engine I have worked on there are mutliple ports for things like gauges, wg, bov, map, ect. And this does not include your brake boost line.

I like to do something like this
1 port directly to MAP
1 port to FPR and boost gauge
1 port to wastegate and bov

And I'm sure the car won't run like crap with only one vacuum port...but it also isn't ideal. You want as many things getting a direct "reading" from the intake tract (piping, intercooler, manifold).

You also need to be careful on which ports are open to what, on some engines some of the ports only read vacuum while some read boost and vacuum.
 

92nsx

Supramania Contributor
Sep 30, 2005
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Clearwater, MN
If you have limited experance with the 7M why are you posting? I'm not pointing fingers at you or calling you out but we are talking about the 7M here not some other engine here.

Well I have plenty of experience with the 7M and this way works good. Again the main thing is to have a larger supply to the vac. block in my experience. Plus if you think 15" of 3/8 hose to a vac block isn't a direct reading:nono: My readings are not slow or off at all.

Also if you study the 7M and it's oem configuration of it vacuum lay out you will find it is also all off of one vac port except non major things to run the engine (heater VSV and cruise control) besides brake booster but again that is a safety thing, and dosent contribute to how a engine runs unless it is leaking. The exception is the waste gate but it pulls it right out of the turbo and no need to run 5+ feet of vacuum hose when it is right there.

Last on the 7M things that don't need to see boost (like the VSV for the heater) they have there own inline check valves.
 

MERCiLESS

New Member
This is exactly what I'm looking to do and just do it right. If it's working for you then I don't see why it won't work for me. Thank you for posting the pic it really helped. Wish I coul've seen where you pulled the main source from but I think I can figure that out. This is awesome.

I'll still be looking for other solutions from anyone else but this is great.

92nsx;1281831 said:
Edit: here is a pic of the one I made. It is just zipped tied to the brake booster.
 

tErbo b00st

Hard Ass
Mar 20, 2007
185
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Iowa City, IA
www.kougakuracing.com
92nsx;1281831 said:
Are you sure no one else is running one vacuum port???? BTW I am for all other functions besides the brake booster and it is awesome. There is no problems, easier to route lines, easier to hook up aftermarket parts that need vac./boost. Plus it is easy to check for vacuum leaks. But I also have the brake booster running off of its own 1/4 npt port on the rear of the manifold. The extra ports Im not using yet just get capped off with no problem.

Also on the OEM manifold setup there is only 3 vacuum ports. One main one on the front of the manifold witch supplies the J shape vacuum tube, one small one on the rear for the heater valve and cruise control, and one for the brake booster.

Edit: here is a pic of the one I made. It is just zipped tied to the brake booster.

p1282033_1.jpg

92nsx;1281873 said:
If you have limited experance with the 7M why are you posting? I'm not pointing fingers at you or calling you out but we are talking about the 7M here not some other engine here.

Well I have plenty of experience with the 7M and this way works good. Again the main thing is to have a larger supply to the vac. block in my experience. Plus if you think 15" of 3/8 hose to a vac block isn't a direct reading:nono: My readings are not slow or off at all.

Also if you study the 7M and it's oem configuration of it vacuum lay out you will find it is also all off of one vac port except non major things to run the engine (heater VSV and cruise control) besides brake booster but again that is a safety thing, and dosent contribute to how a engine runs unless it is leaking. The exception is the waste gate but it pulls it right out of the turbo and no need to run 5+ feet of vacuum hose when it is right there.

Last on the 7M things that don't need to see boost (like the VSV for the heater) they have there own inline check valves.

I have experience with other engines, and at the end of the day an engine is an engine...they all work on similar principles. I am also trying to understand the 7M better which is why I asked questions about this.

It doesn't matter if it's oem or not, it is better to have multuple vacuum lines directly from the manifold, it is more accurate. You don't keep the stock exhaust becasue it's the best option because its oem...

and I thoguht you said 1/4" hose, not 3/8"
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
Stock setup uses a lot of T's (many are metal under the intake manifold coming off the larger vacuum source on the front....(setup JUST like a vacuum block). I do agree that some things should have dedicated sources (brake booster), but a million holes in the intake isn't really a good move either...

Also, some are off the throttlebody...
 

92nsx

Supramania Contributor
Sep 30, 2005
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Clearwater, MN
tErbo b00st;1282033 said:
and I thoguht you said 1/4" hose, not 3/8"

You need to read better. I said 1/4" npt (pipe thread). That is a tap size for fittings that has a inside diameter of 7/16" and a 3/8" nipple at the other end. And 3/8 hose to lead to the vacuum block, witch to have it right needs a 1/4"npt tapped size hole.
Understand?

Also I disagree with your statement of "it is better to have multuple vacuum lines directly from the manifold". That is totaly ludricrous. Think about it ;)

Also the 2 off of the throttle body IIRC is for thre Bvsv witch is for gas fumes coming from the tank.