how PERFECT does the rod bearing surface need be?

[loki2043]

so i got my shit back from the shop (after paying $1100). and i just started looking at the rods and the surface where the bearing goes looks interesting. 2 have a couple VERY small gouges/dings. the rods were cut/resized.

pics up in about 20 minutes. so unitl then please help me out here.

the machinist also said to use STANDARD bearings. so should i just buy some clevites standard?

im starting to get upset with this whole thing as im broke as shit now and my good friends (pimptrizkit) engine is starting to act up after going to this guy. but his bros car (joec) is running perfectly which was built by him.

be back in 20 for pics

 

[loki2043]

 

[loki2043]

i asked him about it and he said the lines were form the machine and not to worry. but i dunno about the gouges. i dont want to say gouges because its more harsh word then what it really is.

i can feel the gouges with my finger nail. its only on one or 2 rods as i can see so far. i havent fully checked them all though

 

[jimi87-t]

I don't think you need to worry about it as this surface is a nonactive surface. meaning it will not see any friction or contact the crank. The bearings sit on that surface and don't move. Now if the crank looked like that then you'd have problems.

 

[loki2043]

thats what i was thinking... but i want to make sure as this IS afterall, a 7m.

 

[JtWo]

Pussy....CAT RIGHT THERE!

 

[dunnbeetle]

^lol, ya sure the cat didnt get ahold of them? jk

 

[Dell67]

yo loki lets build it!. your ok if theyve ben resized to round,did you get new bushings pressed in? yes you can run a standerd bering,remembering to buy the ten or twenty thousands bering for the journal reduction.crank and rod .or just rod.dont forget to plasty gauge! have fun.double check your work all tourqe spots.