Lets say I have a hoist and stand, and I believe all the tools I need, how much is it to repair rod knock?
How much to fix rod knock if its a DIY job?
- Thread starter phoenix6
- Start date
if ur going to go inside of the engine... u might as well replace the all the bearing/rings ....etc inside the engine....
u want to use stock rods and pistons, valves...etc??? power goals??? ne other upgrades u have on the motor???
u want to use stock rods and pistons, valves...etc??? power goals??? ne other upgrades u have on the motor???
i tore my motor apart but had a shop do every thing else. With new pistons/rings, bore, new bearings throughout.. costing me $1500
Im doing it myself, Ill buy the parts, and do this myself. The damage shouldn't be extreme, motor was cut off 3 mins after the knock began, not turned on since.
Im not looking to upgrade anything, Ive got a GTE Im building up for about 6 months from now. But this IS my DD, so I need to fast, just working. Working right.
Im not looking to upgrade anything, Ive got a GTE Im building up for about 6 months from now. But this IS my DD, so I need to fast, just working. Working right.
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My advice is to not try to attempt the blockwork yourself. Lap it yourself if you have to but have a shop check for cracks in the block and do the cylinder work. You won't regret it.
Cracks in the block? It ran 3 mins with a small knocking, ticking sound. If its just a loose bearing how bad could it have been? The pistons lift up and down in unison, the only difference right now is that 3 sits a hair longer before moving after 4, and on the way up, clinks a little bit. Ive heard of people just replacing all the bearings, micropolishing the crank and being done with it... my work isnt gonna end with this thing.
It's a 15+ year old block so you don't really know what you have until it's cleaned and inspected 
I tried 5 different blocks before I gave up and bought a brand new one for my build.
I tried 5 different blocks before I gave up and bought a brand new one for my build.
*sigh*
Im fucked arnt I, I really dont make enough money to even SAVE for this kinda work. It HAS to be done myself, with as little as possible. Why isnt that possible?
Im fucked arnt I, I really dont make enough money to even SAVE for this kinda work. It HAS to be done myself, with as little as possible. Why isnt that possible?
yeah I'm not really suggesting the rod knock caused a block crack or anything. it's just a good idea to have the block magnafluxed to check for these things. even as such if you look at my receipt above the machine shop labor on the block prep was "only" about 350 and that guaranteed the quality of work and solidity of the block.
If it is THAT bad, can I tell as soon as I pull it over, and see the crank? Or do I gotta do what I did with my head, ALL comes off before I see everything or nothing is wrong?
$350 to have it magnafluxed will dent me and make this take even longer. The friend I bought this car from still has $550 coming to him and isnt being at all lienient (spelling?) or too helpful with the matter, all I hear from him is stop messing with it and take it to a shop....
I, am, broke and have bills and need a car. This has been done before and Im determined.
$350 to have it magnafluxed will dent me and make this take even longer. The friend I bought this car from still has $550 coming to him and isnt being at all lienient (spelling?) or too helpful with the matter, all I hear from him is stop messing with it and take it to a shop....
I, am, broke and have bills and need a car. This has been done before and Im determined.
Mk3 Supra = probably one of the worst cars to buy if you have a limited budget sorry!
Parts for our cars can be a joke and the DealerShip should have a big can of KY on the counter to make the assraping less painful!
Parts for our cars can be a joke and the DealerShip should have a big can of KY on the counter to make the assraping less painful!
got it bc I was on a budget and a friend helped me out.
I will get this done, without spending an arm and a leg. I already found all the bearing replacements, gonna have the head fixed up nice, and a new HG that was free. This should be not SO painful.
I will get this done, without spending an arm and a leg. I already found all the bearing replacements, gonna have the head fixed up nice, and a new HG that was free. This should be not SO painful.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
This is hard right now, but I believe if Ive come this far, I can do it. I have NEVER given up on anything I take on. Computers, cars, life, I always get stressed, even blow a gasket of my own sometimes, but I recouperate, and do it again. This car is gonna take me a few weeks more to fix, but I gotta do it. I Have to.
I believe in myself enough to do this. A little help and support from everyone is what Im asking for. Not that it NEEDS to go to a shop, but what exactly I need to do MYSELF to get this done right. I realize, yank the engine after I get my head back on and set right. Pull the engine, turn it upside down, bust off all the shit and replace the rod bearings, main bearings and thrust washers.
My questions about this process are:
Can I leave the head on when I do this?
Do the pistons HAVE to come out?
How hard is it to tell if its a bearing or not when I flip it over and get the oil pump off?
Where can I get the fuel pump and replacement gaskets and seals from? I need to replace them all since its coming out.
Ive never pulled an engine, what do I need to remove and in what order to pull it? I was told a nifty trick with the wire harness thank god, so thats not a problem, but after that step, what comes next and in what order?
I believe in myself enough to do this. A little help and support from everyone is what Im asking for. Not that it NEEDS to go to a shop, but what exactly I need to do MYSELF to get this done right. I realize, yank the engine after I get my head back on and set right. Pull the engine, turn it upside down, bust off all the shit and replace the rod bearings, main bearings and thrust washers.
My questions about this process are:
Can I leave the head on when I do this?
Do the pistons HAVE to come out?
How hard is it to tell if its a bearing or not when I flip it over and get the oil pump off?
Where can I get the fuel pump and replacement gaskets and seals from? I need to replace them all since its coming out.
Ive never pulled an engine, what do I need to remove and in what order to pull it? I was told a nifty trick with the wire harness thank god, so thats not a problem, but after that step, what comes next and in what order?
yikes kid.. you got your self a hand full..
i just picked up a rodknock car.. knowing i was going to dump more money into fixing the motor then what i paid for the car.. and im a skilled mechanic.
i pulled the motor, dissiable every thing, and took it to a machinist that i have so far trusted..
i had to replace 1 cracked rod, (cracked while in disassbemly) and had to replace 2 rod's that where knocking. replace the crank. over bore, new pistons & rings. probaly going to have a new oil pump aswhile.
im also having the motor balenced and blue printed.. my bill just for having the short block re-assembled w/ all the new i have. is running me up into the1300 doallor range.. so far i have made a 400 doallor payment, have 2 in the bank waiting, and will drop the rest on a card when the motor is done..
i wouldn't suggest leaving the head on the block, if you really like this car. and plan to go the turbo route. you best find your self a honda that you can leave stock and drive it back and forth to work,
if you where to take it to a shop and have the work done, expect a $1500 bill from just labor to pull the engine and re-installed when the machine work is done..
i just picked up a rodknock car.. knowing i was going to dump more money into fixing the motor then what i paid for the car.. and im a skilled mechanic.
i pulled the motor, dissiable every thing, and took it to a machinist that i have so far trusted..
i had to replace 1 cracked rod, (cracked while in disassbemly) and had to replace 2 rod's that where knocking. replace the crank. over bore, new pistons & rings. probaly going to have a new oil pump aswhile.
im also having the motor balenced and blue printed.. my bill just for having the short block re-assembled w/ all the new i have. is running me up into the1300 doallor range.. so far i have made a 400 doallor payment, have 2 in the bank waiting, and will drop the rest on a card when the motor is done..
i wouldn't suggest leaving the head on the block, if you really like this car. and plan to go the turbo route. you best find your self a honda that you can leave stock and drive it back and forth to work,
if you where to take it to a shop and have the work done, expect a $1500 bill from just labor to pull the engine and re-installed when the machine work is done..
Please dont take this negitivly as it is not meant that way.
Can you do this yourself, Yes
but the rule here is reliable fast and inexpensive dont go together.
You mention you want to do this right, which is the only way to do things. Do it right one or do it wrong and then do it again.
So to do this right you will need to disassemble the engine and take it to a machine shop and have all the tolerances checked as per the TSRM. Can you check the tolerances yourself, again yes but you would need signifigant ($$$) measuring tools to do so.
If everything is in good shape then clean up the block, rehone the cylendar walls rings, bearings, thrust wahers, all gaskets etc.
Is it possible that you could just disasemble the bottom end and put new bearings in and presto it just works. It is possible but highly unlikely.
If you need a good reliable daily driver and are low on funds, my advice is to sell the car and go get a honda. These cars are old high performance vehicles and need attention.
Good luck with whatever your decison may be.:icon_bigg
if you decide to rebuild it look at the cygnuxs site all the info you need is there.
Steve
Can you do this yourself, Yes
but the rule here is reliable fast and inexpensive dont go together.
You mention you want to do this right, which is the only way to do things. Do it right one or do it wrong and then do it again.
So to do this right you will need to disassemble the engine and take it to a machine shop and have all the tolerances checked as per the TSRM. Can you check the tolerances yourself, again yes but you would need signifigant ($$$) measuring tools to do so.
If everything is in good shape then clean up the block, rehone the cylendar walls rings, bearings, thrust wahers, all gaskets etc.
Is it possible that you could just disasemble the bottom end and put new bearings in and presto it just works. It is possible but highly unlikely.
If you need a good reliable daily driver and are low on funds, my advice is to sell the car and go get a honda. These cars are old high performance vehicles and need attention.
Good luck with whatever your decison may be.:icon_bigg
if you decide to rebuild it look at the cygnuxs site all the info you need is there.
Steve
Ok lets say I do this:
Continue to dismantal my head, take off all the valves and parts. Bag the valves, springs, ect and wait.
Go buy hoist, get the rest of the block out (can I without the head on?) dismantal the entire block, bring the crank, pistons, and new bearings I buy to the shop with the head. Have them tank block and head, reinstall my CLEANED valves, check clearances and make sure the block is sound and micropolish the crank. Take it home knowing the block is sound, reassemble the bottom end with the pistons, new bearings, ect. Put the fresh head back on, all parts. drop back in....
How much could I get that done for? Considering all I have them do is clean my block and head, check them, and reassemble my valves and check those for me. then complete the rest
Ive got a GTE block, needs to be cleaned up and prepped, but I dont have the turbo and other parts, no head either I was gonna use my GE head on it. Which would be cheaper all together at this point? Get to work on that one or fix this one? Or can I use the GTE as a NON TURBO block?
Continue to dismantal my head, take off all the valves and parts. Bag the valves, springs, ect and wait.
Go buy hoist, get the rest of the block out (can I without the head on?) dismantal the entire block, bring the crank, pistons, and new bearings I buy to the shop with the head. Have them tank block and head, reinstall my CLEANED valves, check clearances and make sure the block is sound and micropolish the crank. Take it home knowing the block is sound, reassemble the bottom end with the pistons, new bearings, ect. Put the fresh head back on, all parts. drop back in....
How much could I get that done for? Considering all I have them do is clean my block and head, check them, and reassemble my valves and check those for me. then complete the rest
Ive got a GTE block, needs to be cleaned up and prepped, but I dont have the turbo and other parts, no head either I was gonna use my GE head on it. Which would be cheaper all together at this point? Get to work on that one or fix this one? Or can I use the GTE as a NON TURBO block?