RP is not a bad oil (Grp IV PAO base stock)...it's just more slanted toward racing applications. That's a big reason it has antifriction additives (soluble moly actually) and a good dose of anti-foaming additives as well. Where it falls is in the detergent and anti-oxidant area...RP is not ideally suited to longer drain intervals for this reason. TBN is a bit lower out of the bottle on this oil as well iirc. As a racing oil, it is meant to be changed more often...go over a 5000 mile change and I would do analysis for sure. One thing I'll point out, RP 5W-30 would be a better choice vs the 10W-30...it has lower viscosity cold for better flow and is actually a bit higher viscosity at ops temp.
I too am a fan of GC...bang for the buck, it's hard to beat. Especially if you catch it on sale at AutoZone
It's also a Grp IV PAO base stock with a stout additive pack better suited to a street car vs RP. If you compare pricing, it's a no brainer. Just to clarify, the Green GC also had a bit different additive pack and incorporated ester in it's formulation to a greater extent than the current version. The "green" color is a dye (not ethylene glycol)...RP uses the same type dye, only purple. IMO the "gold" GC is almost as good...the difference is splitting hairs. The other major difference in GC is it's viscosity at ops temp...it's a bit thick for a 30W multigrade, approaching a 40W spec...call it a 35W. It still flows very well cold too...the combination is just about perfect for the 7M, 1J and 2J motors.
Pennzoil Platinum is right there with GC in terms of a quality, cost effective solution. True it's a Grp III hydro cracked oil (the company makes no secret about it), but the process has been taken a couple notches higher by Shell (they own Pennzoil). The wear numbers and resistance to break down are excellent for this oil...the add pack is excellent. If AutoZone ever stops carrying GC, this will be what I use.
Mobil 1 is also a good oil (as are most modern oils)...Grp III hydrocracked similar to Pennzoil Platinum, but not as extensive to produce equal size molecules. The base stock does include alphaolefins (AN) and polyalphaolefins (PAO)...however, the primary base stock is Group III. It has a good add pack as well, but not as good as Red Line, GC, or Pennzoil Platinum IMO. You won't see me slamming someone for using it, but I will point out the differences (especially for the $$$...Mobil 1 is just not worth what it cost) and what follows:
What really torques me is what Exxon did when they changed from a Grp IV to a Grp III base stock...they told no one and go to great lengths to cover it up. A little history: Back years ago Exxon sued Castrol concerning what makes a synthetic oil...Castrol was using Grp III in it's US made oils and claiming "synthetic technology" was used in it's formulation, thus making it a syn oil. Exxon took the view that only man made base stocks (Grp IV PAO and Grp V esters) were true syn oils. Exxon lost, and it created the situation we're in today left trying to figure out what really is a syn oil...you can't believe the label on the bottle. Now Exxon abandoned the high ground on this and quietly went to Grp III about a year or so ago, basically to cut cost and sell "synthetic" motor oil at the same price as before...and posted record profits for ANY US corporation in the process. That pisses me off and I refuse to use any of their products. Read post #11 in the below thread for more...including their patent to seal the Grp III "synthetic" (for their own use no less) once and for all.
Finally...IMO, Red Line is the best you can get. Grp V ester based oils can handle just about anything thrown at it in an internal combustion engine...the stuff is used in jet turbine engines at temps waaayyy above what it will see in a car motor. Red Line's add pack is superb. I got my son to switch over to it for his Yamaha R6...much smoother on high RPM runs and he's getting better gas mileage as well. I run Red Line MT90 in my Toyota truck manual tranny and 75W-90 in my Supra differential...big differences in both cases...smooth as a baby's behind. The downside for the motor oil is it's expense, but if you want the best, Red Line is it. One thing I do is add a quart of Red Line to my normal fill of GC...ester is an excellent seal conditioner. I have zero seal seeps/leaks.
Regardless of the oil you choose, go for the lowest 1st number in the SAE grade you can get. IMO, a 30W for the 2nd number is best for our motors at mid to tight bearing clearances...if you choose a 40W, the lower 1st number is even more important. A look at the oil's spec sheet is worthwhile, especially for a 40W...you want the lower viscosity in spec if you choose this grade.
On any of the above (Except Mobil 1 or RP), if you change your oil at less than 8,000 miles on it, you're wasting your $$$. If you do analysis to keep tabs on the oil, you can just about double that. What I do is change the filter every 4000 mile, add make-up oil, and send a sample of the old stuff to Blackstone. I also use a bypass filter...the oil samples so far are coming back analytically clean with very low wear metals and no signs of gasoline or coolant in the oil. I just have to watch TBN to determine the change.
Take a look at this thread...I talk about RP, GC, and Mobil 1:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768
Read the whole thing...quite a few nuggets in there
Don't forget about filters too!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763
I too am a fan of GC...bang for the buck, it's hard to beat. Especially if you catch it on sale at AutoZone
It's also a Grp IV PAO base stock with a stout additive pack better suited to a street car vs RP. If you compare pricing, it's a no brainer. Just to clarify, the Green GC also had a bit different additive pack and incorporated ester in it's formulation to a greater extent than the current version. The "green" color is a dye (not ethylene glycol)...RP uses the same type dye, only purple. IMO the "gold" GC is almost as good...the difference is splitting hairs. The other major difference in GC is it's viscosity at ops temp...it's a bit thick for a 30W multigrade, approaching a 40W spec...call it a 35W. It still flows very well cold too...the combination is just about perfect for the 7M, 1J and 2J motors.
Pennzoil Platinum is right there with GC in terms of a quality, cost effective solution. True it's a Grp III hydro cracked oil (the company makes no secret about it), but the process has been taken a couple notches higher by Shell (they own Pennzoil). The wear numbers and resistance to break down are excellent for this oil...the add pack is excellent. If AutoZone ever stops carrying GC, this will be what I use.
Mobil 1 is also a good oil (as are most modern oils)...Grp III hydrocracked similar to Pennzoil Platinum, but not as extensive to produce equal size molecules. The base stock does include alphaolefins (AN) and polyalphaolefins (PAO)...however, the primary base stock is Group III. It has a good add pack as well, but not as good as Red Line, GC, or Pennzoil Platinum IMO. You won't see me slamming someone for using it, but I will point out the differences (especially for the $$$...Mobil 1 is just not worth what it cost) and what follows:
What really torques me is what Exxon did when they changed from a Grp IV to a Grp III base stock...they told no one and go to great lengths to cover it up. A little history: Back years ago Exxon sued Castrol concerning what makes a synthetic oil...Castrol was using Grp III in it's US made oils and claiming "synthetic technology" was used in it's formulation, thus making it a syn oil. Exxon took the view that only man made base stocks (Grp IV PAO and Grp V esters) were true syn oils. Exxon lost, and it created the situation we're in today left trying to figure out what really is a syn oil...you can't believe the label on the bottle. Now Exxon abandoned the high ground on this and quietly went to Grp III about a year or so ago, basically to cut cost and sell "synthetic" motor oil at the same price as before...and posted record profits for ANY US corporation in the process. That pisses me off and I refuse to use any of their products. Read post #11 in the below thread for more...including their patent to seal the Grp III "synthetic" (for their own use no less) once and for all.
Finally...IMO, Red Line is the best you can get. Grp V ester based oils can handle just about anything thrown at it in an internal combustion engine...the stuff is used in jet turbine engines at temps waaayyy above what it will see in a car motor. Red Line's add pack is superb. I got my son to switch over to it for his Yamaha R6...much smoother on high RPM runs and he's getting better gas mileage as well. I run Red Line MT90 in my Toyota truck manual tranny and 75W-90 in my Supra differential...big differences in both cases...smooth as a baby's behind. The downside for the motor oil is it's expense, but if you want the best, Red Line is it. One thing I do is add a quart of Red Line to my normal fill of GC...ester is an excellent seal conditioner. I have zero seal seeps/leaks.
Regardless of the oil you choose, go for the lowest 1st number in the SAE grade you can get. IMO, a 30W for the 2nd number is best for our motors at mid to tight bearing clearances...if you choose a 40W, the lower 1st number is even more important. A look at the oil's spec sheet is worthwhile, especially for a 40W...you want the lower viscosity in spec if you choose this grade.
On any of the above (Except Mobil 1 or RP), if you change your oil at less than 8,000 miles on it, you're wasting your $$$. If you do analysis to keep tabs on the oil, you can just about double that. What I do is change the filter every 4000 mile, add make-up oil, and send a sample of the old stuff to Blackstone. I also use a bypass filter...the oil samples so far are coming back analytically clean with very low wear metals and no signs of gasoline or coolant in the oil. I just have to watch TBN to determine the change.
Take a look at this thread...I talk about RP, GC, and Mobil 1:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768
Read the whole thing...quite a few nuggets in there
Don't forget about filters too!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763
