ok heres more detial i really hope i don't have to pull the head again (i did it to swap out as a saftey precaution when i went turbo) the car now has 60k on the motor (orig miles). when i do long distance highway driving its fine, i made it to canada from NJ without needing oil at all, but i never really got the car into boost) usually i drive about 100 miles on the weekend and back and forth duting the week (in school). This is when i usually have to fill oil every other tank of gas. can someone explain to me this aircompresser idea? like where do i get the fittings to fit in the spark plug hole
how much oil do you lose?
- Thread starter viper92086
- Start date
Viper: You use a compression tester fitting screwed into the head then plug the compressor into it doing 1 cylinder at a time, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke as you plug it in.
Another way of doing it is to move the piston down a bit from TDC and slide some rope into the plug hole until no more will go in then bring the Piston back to TDC this will hold the Valves up.
If the valves are stock they "should" have a chamfer on the tips, sometimes when people Tip valves they leave a sharp edge and this slices off the lip on the new seal when fitting, this is where the sleeves come into play (think thin plastic condom that goes over the tip while fitting the new seal)
Another way of doing it is to move the piston down a bit from TDC and slide some rope into the plug hole until no more will go in then bring the Piston back to TDC this will hold the Valves up.
If the valves are stock they "should" have a chamfer on the tips, sometimes when people Tip valves they leave a sharp edge and this slices off the lip on the new seal when fitting, this is where the sleeves come into play (think thin plastic condom that goes over the tip while fitting the new seal)
ok so make sure piston is down all the way fill cyclinder with how much psi? say 50psi? or is that too much? also where do i get these sleeves, thanks
This is interesting...I have noticed that my smoke on startup problem has completely gone away since I installed my 57 trim CT-26...but I still geta really strong burning oil smell after a prolonged boost...It will get so bad sometimes that I have to roll the windows up...I am guessing this could be valve seals?
Considering it's designed to hold a minimum of 140 or so... I don't think 50 is going to do very much.viper92086 said:
LOL peak pressures during the Power stroke are WAYYYYY highermkIIIman089 said:
(think 2000+ psi for a forced induction motor and 4000+ for a Nitro Burner)
the sleeves should come with the valvestems...
I don't burn any oil after having my head rebuilt...
I don't burn any oil after having my head rebuilt...
johnathan1 said:
Funny. My new 57 trim took care of my smoke on start up, but I get a really bad smell on decel/engine brake when my windows are down. Valve seals? I guess...
unless your valve seals are horribly cracked, it won't smoke very much or at all when its being driven. a common sign of blown valve seals are smoke on startup. thats because oil sits in the head and leaks into the cylinder when the car is off. it burns that oil during startup and then will burn very slowly as small amounts are released during driving.
i just did my valve seals, and its a good idea to do a cylinder leakdown test also. to do this, you need a compressor and two psi gauges. check the psi going into the cylinder, and a gauge that reads what is actually in the cylinder. that will tell you how much boost is getting past the rings. its definetly better to do this when the engine is still warm, but kinda hard to do unless you're really fast at disassembling your motor. it doesn't tell what condition your cylinder walls are in, but it's a good test to run. good luck! oh, you'll need a spring compressor too. i had a guy help me who had done it before, and i wouldn't try it unless you have some experience.
i just did my valve seals, and its a good idea to do a cylinder leakdown test also. to do this, you need a compressor and two psi gauges. check the psi going into the cylinder, and a gauge that reads what is actually in the cylinder. that will tell you how much boost is getting past the rings. its definetly better to do this when the engine is still warm, but kinda hard to do unless you're really fast at disassembling your motor. it doesn't tell what condition your cylinder walls are in, but it's a good test to run. good luck! oh, you'll need a spring compressor too. i had a guy help me who had done it before, and i wouldn't try it unless you have some experience.
my valve stems didn't actual "seal" left, it was the tiny spring part and the metal cap over it...
I'm thinking it attributed to me losing my engine from rod knock (I check my oil everytime I fill up, and I had plenty, but I was boosting hard for a good couple minutes and no oil after it)
I'm thinking it attributed to me losing my engine from rod knock (I check my oil everytime I fill up, and I had plenty, but I was boosting hard for a good couple minutes and no oil after it)
viper92086 said:
They normally come with the valve seals when you buy them.
I know Felpro includes one.
Thank your PCV system for allowing some oil to be burnt off, along with your turbo if you have one. Other then that, if no noticable loss of oil, then :thumbup: