nsngarage;1332844 said:hmmm well if it's the motor, that might make it look dirty lol.. and I guess I can't really talk shit on the lime green if it's a motor color
makes it easy to see oil leaks...which seem to happen occasionally
nsngarage;1332844 said:hmmm well if it's the motor, that might make it look dirty lol.. and I guess I can't really talk shit on the lime green if it's a motor color
IJ.;1332850 said:The GE is a very highly developed NA engine making very good useable power per litre across it's rpm range and far from a slug..... :nono:
It doesn't respond to the traditional hotrodder mods as it's already damn good out of the box so you don't see the massive gains.
What makes it a "slug" is the 3500+ Lb's of fat car it's dragging around.
nsngarage;1332844 said:hmmm well if it's the motor, that might make it look dirty lol.. and I guess I can't really talk shit on the lime green if it's a motor color
7M-KDL;1332861 said:i agree, except for the obvious bhg problem with all 7m's.
Island_Yota;1332890 said:Aluminum 1 piece driveshaft, Light wheels and tires, exhaust/header, intake. About as far as id go with my N/A. Making the car handle better, and doing maintenance is probably a better place to put your money though.
Weight reduction is good:
Lighter wheels -25 pounds
Lighter Driveshaft -15 pounds
A/C System - ??? 30 pounds ???
Spare tire, jack, cargo floor, tools - 40 pounds
Should be able to drop around 100 pounds off the car without gutting it or cutting it up, and thats still good for when you swap in a GTE. The drive train weight loss helps a fair amount of horse power, id say with a one piece and lighter wheels close to 15whp.
IJ.;1332850 said:The GE is a very highly developed NA engine making very good useable power per litre across it's rpm range and far from a slug..... :nono:
It doesn't respond to the traditional hotrodder mods as it's already damn good out of the box so you don't see the massive gains.
What makes it a "slug" is the 3500+ Lb's of fat car it's dragging around.
Island_Yota;1332890 said:Weight reduction is good:
Lighter wheels -25 pounds
Lighter Driveshaft -15 pounds
A/C System - ??? 30 pounds ???
Spare tire, jack, cargo floor, tools - 40 pounds
88_7mge;1336571 said:Where did you come up with these numbers???
where did you manage to find a one piece driveshaft that weighs in at 6 pounds? cuz the stock two piece weighs in at a little over 21. The lightest driveshaft available for the car weighs in at 11 pounds. Dropping an a/c system out of any car will maybe drop about 10 pounds, maybe a little more on a larger vehicle, but how much do you think that these parts actually weigh? The spare tire jack and tools might loose you about 30, but its extremely foolish to run around without your spare unless you have AAA.
Not trying to be a dick, but maybe next time do some homework before you start throwing around numbers when you are giving someone advice.
IJ.;1336616 said:My GE had dual fuel tanks and a full size spare.....
I never had to take anything out or drive around empty.
If the spare makes that much of a performance difference there's something drastically wrong with your car.
88_7mge;1336571 said:Where did you come up with these numbers???
where did you manage to find a one piece driveshaft that weighs in at 6 pounds? cuz the stock two piece weighs in at a little over 21. The lightest driveshaft available for the car weighs in at 11 pounds. Dropping an a/c system out of any car will maybe drop about 10 pounds, maybe a little more on a larger vehicle, but how much do you think that these parts actually weigh? The spare tire jack and tools might loose you about 30, but its extremely foolish to run around without your spare unless you have AAA.
Not trying to be a dick, but maybe next time do some homework before you start throwing around numbers when you are giving someone advice.
benchwarmer;1333179 said:Alright, I guess I'll chime in here. I've done a lot of mods to my GE, take a look at my profile if you don't believe me. After all that work the car is far from a HP king. I haven't dynoed it yet so no idea what it's making but if I'm pushing 200 RWHP I'd be very impressed. It was a lot of work with swapped internals, machining, and a laundry list of new parts.
If I had it all to do over again I would with only a few changes. Sure it will never match a turbo for power. Who cares? The car is a blast to drive, which is exactly what I wanted. I don't really care how much power the car is making. I care about how it performs so I built it to perform the way I wanted it to.
That said, you need to decide what you want. If you want bragging rights or plan on going head to head with modified cars then yes, a turbo is your best(only) option. If your just looking for a car that's fun to drive an NA can do it if you put in the time. The best place to spend your money after maintenance is suspension. You'll be shocked at how well a Supra can handle with suspension upgrades. Even a stock car is fun to drive with a great suspension.
And you guys would puke if you knew how much money I've spent on this car.:sarcasm: