How much boost can a stock 7mgte block hold?

[PorterzSupra]

My water IC setup is more efficient then any or most air to air street or strip. I have a specially made heat exchanger that is tripple the size of any other with wave technology, my IC sits by the normal cold intake setup cut out in the front, I have a bosh waterpump that comes on at 45 deg and I even went the extra mile and put a HO electric fan that comes on when I stop to cool the water even when im standing still!!! The IC itself can support over 1000 HP while aftermarket air to air is limited to around 600 hp. Not to mention how I can pack with icewater to run at the track for lower then outside air temps =) Oh also, there is only about 4 feet of pipe instead of 10+ feet with bends and twists therefore I get less turbo lag and pressue drop I mean damn its leaps and bounds better in this setup

 

[outofstep]

an water to air requires ice to be efficient,

No it doesn't. Ice is used only if you want temperatures below ambient, something that NO air/air can do. Without ice a liquid/air will cool to ambient.

otherwise it will eventually heat soak

It will take over 4 times longer to heatsoak a water/air as opposed to an air/air.

wihtout an exchanger it's worthless

Even without an exchanger, with about a gallon reserve it would take a good while before the liquid/air heatsoaked.

but even with an exchanger it can only cool so much in relation to outside temp.

Just like an air/air. However when you add ice to the equation the liquid/air can do something that an air/air can NEVER do; go below ambient.

front mounted intercoolers don't really heatsoak unless youre standing still in hot weather.

Wow, you have got to be kidding me...

Do you never boost your car or something? I could heatsoak my spearco front mount in the winter.



Everyone does air/air becuase it is much easier to set up, not because it is supperior.

i don't doubt that 700hp+ can be achieved by a good tuner using a ems,

850rwhp has been done on the stock internal with stand alone, over 600rwhp has been done without a stand alone.

but generally people recommend upgrading after 400hp.

I have never heard anyone recommend upgrading the internals at only 400rwhp.



Guys, you really need to watch the bunk info.

 

[IJ.]

Bob: Thanks saved me the effort !

 

[diy guy]

sorry guys, im fairly new to supras, still learning. I heard 400 as a safe hp figure. so whats a better number for someone who isnt shooting for the "highest hp from stock block" throphy?

Without ice a liquid/air will cool to ambient.

i suppose it depends on the efficiency of the system, but i've seen logs of AIT being over ambient with water only. you dont, by chance, have logs to prove me wrong do you? preferably after some freeway cruising?

Ice is used only if you want temperatures below ambient, something that NO air/air can do.

co2 spray. simple, cheap.

It will take over 4 times longer to heatsoak a water/air as opposed to an air/air.

and once heatsoaked it takes 4 times longer to dissapate that heat, also youre assuming theyre both exposed to the same heat. an engine bay, where a air/water is usually mounted, stays hotter than where a fmic mounts, stopped or at speed.

Even without an exchanger, with about a gallon reserve it would take a good while before the liquid/air heatsoaked

like sitting in the engine bay for the commute to work/track/wherever?

Wow, you have got to be kidding me...

Do you never boost your car or something? I could heatsoak my spearco front mount in the winter

and how long before you're ready to go again (at speed)? of course it heats up, thats how it transfers the heat, but it is quickly cooled by the charge of cool air flowing through it.

btw, how big is your spearco core?

 

[Nick M]

Just like an air/air. However when you add ice to the equation the liquid/air can do something that an air/air can NEVER do; go below ambient.

You should see what a 96-98 Mustang Cobra does with a Vortech T-Trim and ice in the igloo can do.

Bob, you can lead a horse to water....