How much boost can a stock 7mgte block hold?
- Thread starter NA86.5
- Start date
Lots. The good Doctor has been pushing out over 500 rwhp for a long time on a stock block.
If you replace the pistons and rods, you are good to over 1000.
If you replace the pistons and rods, you are good to over 1000.
GrimJack said:
have to ad the "assuming you are running right, and have proper engine management" i could make a totally custom $2k build and ruin it by running lean.
The GTE can run a good 20 PSI or more, what about the NA-T? How much boost can that take? Its only 9:2 not that bad, I would guess about 13-15?? I guess it depends on tune, octain and knock, BTW here is my new NA-T setup, let me know what u think... im gonna start off with 10 PSI
7M GE N/A block JDM motor
T6 Turbo
.68 COLDSIDE, .84 HOTSIDE T66
Voodoo II boost controller 0-35 PSI
Greddy KNOCK meter
MAFT Professional A/F Tune computer
Corvette Z06 MAF sensor
Pyro E.G.T meter
T4 chrome Exhaust manifold
50MM HKS direct dump adj wastegate
3 1/2 inch FULL exhaust and downpipe (no cats)
WATER race intercooler WITH H.O FAN on H.E
Aluminum OVERSIZED heat exchanger for I/C with WAVE technology
( 21 1/2" wide and 13" height )
Bosh IC electric water pump
Walbro 225 High output fule pump
550 Venom Injectors (upgrading to 720's soon)
Koyo Aluminum drift spec radiator
High output electric fan
Adj fuel pressure regulator w/guage
Wideband mixture and boost guage
Stage III XTD Racing Clutch 6 puck
Oil pump upgrade
J tube drilled out
7M N/A cams
E.G.R blockoff plates
Magnacor KV85 competition plug wires
200 watt extream H.O Alternator
EBC Brakes
1998 HKS Supra spoiler
HKS Oil catch can breather system
Still building... coming soon....
P a i n t!!!
ARP studs/steel headgasket
Unorthodox racing underdrivepulleys
7M GE N/A block JDM motor
T6 Turbo
.68 COLDSIDE, .84 HOTSIDE T66
Voodoo II boost controller 0-35 PSI
Greddy KNOCK meter
MAFT Professional A/F Tune computer
Corvette Z06 MAF sensor
Pyro E.G.T meter
T4 chrome Exhaust manifold
50MM HKS direct dump adj wastegate
3 1/2 inch FULL exhaust and downpipe (no cats)
WATER race intercooler WITH H.O FAN on H.E
Aluminum OVERSIZED heat exchanger for I/C with WAVE technology
( 21 1/2" wide and 13" height )
Bosh IC electric water pump
Walbro 225 High output fule pump
550 Venom Injectors (upgrading to 720's soon)
Koyo Aluminum drift spec radiator
High output electric fan
Adj fuel pressure regulator w/guage
Wideband mixture and boost guage
Stage III XTD Racing Clutch 6 puck
Oil pump upgrade
J tube drilled out
7M N/A cams
E.G.R blockoff plates
Magnacor KV85 competition plug wires
200 watt extream H.O Alternator
EBC Brakes
1998 HKS Supra spoiler
HKS Oil catch can breather system
Still building... coming soon....
P a i n t!!!
ARP studs/steel headgasket
Unorthodox racing underdrivepulleys
Attachments
a guy on SF did 29lbs on the stock bottom end, the only downside to the 7M is the stock headgasket, bottom end is pretty stout
I've done 29 psi on a more or less stock botto mend. I resued the pistons that were in the JDM motor I rebuild and had then coated. It was also balanced. other than that.. its as it came from toyota many years ago.
Yep.outofstep said:
And the block being cast iron will hold a ton of power. That doesnt mean the internals will last forever at a high power level though.
well my old bottom end took 4psi on my T70 before my (178K mile) stock rings on cylinders 2,3,& 4 broke into about 20 pieces.
and GrimJack is right, a stock bottom end could take 30psi on a upgraded CT, whereas a GT47-88 might blow it to kingdom come at 10psi, all depends on the turbo youve got
and GrimJack is right, a stock bottom end could take 30psi on a upgraded CT, whereas a GT47-88 might blow it to kingdom come at 10psi, all depends on the turbo youve got
hey i got a question what was that a pic of? just curious
looks like an ic that cant be effcient at all... can it?
looks like an ic that cant be effcient at all... can it?
bigal0043 said:
Are you talking about the pic in PorterzSupra's sig? If so thats an air/liquid intercooler. They are much more effective than air/air intercoolers.
Water's 4.186 J/(gK) >>> Air's 1.005 J/(gK)
Even with a relatively small resevior that doesn't utilize a heat exchanger an air/air will heatsoak long before the air/water.
If you're talking about the picture in my signature. Well, that's a gun. It would be a really bad intercooler. So yes, you're right.
If your looking for an ultimate power limit of the stock bottem end, it seems ever so slowly we are finding out the internals are far more stout than we previously imagined!
Really the reason we have not seen a mk3 7mgte push the high numbers is:
1. Nobody wants to be the guinea pig since most of us are not millionairs and can spare a motor on a whim.
2. It takes alot of money and time to put in another motor.
The rods are capable of 800whp. The pistons though are about 550-600whp. Its really the HEAT that eats away at the pistons. But this is on a REBUILD ( stock ).
Put it this way, if you have a stock rebuild+ mhg and some other new stuff you should be good for close to 600hp. But on a reliability standpoint....its not going to last long. Its how you drive the car, and maintain it.
On a non-rebuilt motor thats 150K+ miles old, I would say 400hp is all you want to push. The rings are old and may give up without a fight. LOL
But nonetheless, 550-600hp is where its at! And STILL climbing!
-Jonathan
Really the reason we have not seen a mk3 7mgte push the high numbers is:
1. Nobody wants to be the guinea pig since most of us are not millionairs and can spare a motor on a whim.
2. It takes alot of money and time to put in another motor.
The rods are capable of 800whp. The pistons though are about 550-600whp. Its really the HEAT that eats away at the pistons. But this is on a REBUILD ( stock ).
Put it this way, if you have a stock rebuild+ mhg and some other new stuff you should be good for close to 600hp. But on a reliability standpoint....its not going to last long. Its how you drive the car, and maintain it.
On a non-rebuilt motor thats 150K+ miles old, I would say 400hp is all you want to push. The rings are old and may give up without a fight. LOL
But nonetheless, 550-600hp is where its at! And STILL climbing!
-Jonathan
water to air may be more efficient for a race car, but for a street car a front mount air>air is more convenient, not to mention cheaper, simpler, and more reliable. an water to air requires ice to be efficient, otherwise it will eventually heat soak and just as it takes more to heat water, it takes more to cool it. wihtout an exchanger it's worthless, but even with an exchanger it can only cool so much in relation to outside temp. so unless you have time to fill up with ice at every stop, air>air takes the gold 
also, front mounted intercoolers don't really heatsoak unless youre standing still in hot weather. theyre more consistent than a water>air.
na86, you'll never get a definite answer as to how much power a stock block can hold. i don't doubt that 700hp+ can be achieved by a good tuner using a ems, but generally people recommend upgrading after 400hp. although from your post it sounds like you just want buy a stock turbo supra and stick a boost controller on it... in that case 10-12psi before you need more upgrades
also, front mounted intercoolers don't really heatsoak unless youre standing still in hot weather. theyre more consistent than a water>air.
na86, you'll never get a definite answer as to how much power a stock block can hold. i don't doubt that 700hp+ can be achieved by a good tuner using a ems, but generally people recommend upgrading after 400hp. although from your post it sounds like you just want buy a stock turbo supra and stick a boost controller on it... in that case 10-12psi before you need more upgrades