How many run without EGR?
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87targa;1133431 said:
It's not the cylinder that feeds it that's the issue. When the EGR valve opens (above idle to ~4000 RPM) the gas from the #6 cylinder (that would have been flowed out the manifold anyway) is sent to the intake plenum. The outlet is just below the TB flange on the inside where the exhaust gas is evenly distributed to ALL cylinders.
Exhaust gas displaces air in the mixture...remove it, and air takes it's place. Think about what more air in the mixture does
mine was a jdm engine so it didnt have egr.... so i guess unless i have a jdm ecu then it would be a good idea to put it back huh?....how do i tell if the ecu i have is jdm???
I had my EGR blocked off for three years. Between running a HKS F-CON, An E-Manage, and now the MAFT-Pro, never had any detonation at part throttle or anything bad to speak of.
I pulled my motor and tore it down for a build this year at 115K miles and the engine is perfect inside.
Yes I know all of the bad reasons for it, and all the good things that it does. I'm actually an ADEQ certified fleet emissions inspector.
I am not saying everyone should go remove their EGR, but hey, stomp away...
I pulled my motor and tore it down for a build this year at 115K miles and the engine is perfect inside.
Yes I know all of the bad reasons for it, and all the good things that it does. I'm actually an ADEQ certified fleet emissions inspector.
I am not saying everyone should go remove their EGR, but hey, stomp away...
90T04;1133585 said:
And how do you pass AZ emissions
I'm in the Phoenix Air Quality district and could not get it to pass without the EGR...then I figured out I wanted it anyway.
Here's where you can get into trouble: Running uphill at 2700 RPM and you need to downshift for the grade. Soon as you do, the motor goes into boost. It won't happen every time, but if a "rattle" occurs then, the next thing you see 20-30 minutes later is your coolant gauge heading north. Pull over, and coolant is spewing out of the overflow bottle. See where I'm going with this
My car came back out of the shop without the EGR system. I am using an AEM
EMS and the car has been tuned without the EGR. Following the many discussions on the forum and Jdub's convincing argument for keeping the EGR I went to Toyota and bought an entirely new EGR system, they are still available. The new system cost $380.00 from Toyota, I am short the union,
that was not available but I am trying to find one. Hopefully better safe than
sorry.
EMS and the car has been tuned without the EGR. Following the many discussions on the forum and Jdub's convincing argument for keeping the EGR I went to Toyota and bought an entirely new EGR system, they are still available. The new system cost $380.00 from Toyota, I am short the union,
that was not available but I am trying to find one. Hopefully better safe than
sorry.
With an AEM you're fine since it's not a piggyback and you have full control over timing and fuel.
EDIT: Though there IS a benefit to using EGR, it's not required with a standalone. A piggyback can't control timing and controls fuel by way of the AFM signal...it's pretty obvious where I'm going with this...
EDIT: Though there IS a benefit to using EGR, it's not required with a standalone. A piggyback can't control timing and controls fuel by way of the AFM signal...it's pretty obvious where I'm going with this...
My plan is the same, running the AEM on the next motor as well
Poodles is correct though, with the AEM you should have no problem running with no EGR. It will help with gas mileage regardless though. And, you'll help keep the air a bit cleaner too.
Poodles is correct though, with the AEM you should have no problem running with no EGR. It will help with gas mileage regardless though. And, you'll help keep the air a bit cleaner too.
Good point. I live in Tucson so they are much less stringent than they are up in "Area A" (Phoenix Area). I have never had a problem passing emissions without it, because they dont test for Nox. In Phoenix I am sure they do.
And as for the detonation issue, It is perfectly reasonable to assume that would happen. I just have never experienced it. :icon_razz
And as for the detonation issue, It is perfectly reasonable to assume that would happen. I just have never experienced it. :icon_razz
Thanks, mileage and clean air do matter and hopefully I'll be able to passjdub;1133614 said:My plan is the same, running the AEM on the next motor as well
Poodles is correct though, with the AEM you should have no problem running with no EGR. It will help with gas mileage regardless though. And, you'll help keep the air a bit cleaner too.
emissions next year! I also have the parts so I might as well use them.
suprahero;1133260 said:
$5.00 a gallon is cheap man.. Ive been paying $5.56 a gallon for the past 2 months :aigo:
I would really like if someone sat down for like 10 minutes wrote up a sticky.. on this, so we don't have to sit down and watch the show, though entertaining.. to most of us, people should do more research on this topic, before posting it.
Teal - in this case it would not matter. The OP has his own opinion about the EGR that fits his own reality of what it does. He demonstrated the same thing concerning the purpose of the idle adjustment screw on early model 7M TB's in his idle thread. He's looking for support for his position (not having an EGR on a stock motor). This thread is not producing the info he wants to hear.
Godspeed;1133533 said:
I believe JDM TCCS have a purple color tag/sticker(color around part #) on them. I'm not 100% but the few I have seen(or "said" they were JDM), all had a purple tag.
good i'll check it out.. my check engine light came on today its throwing the egr code??? while i was driving today i down shifted going up a hill and noticed my temp jumped up a little but then came down...???? wtf?? and then i went to go up this driveway that was kinda steep, its only about 200yrds long by the time i got to the top she was boiling out of the overflow tank.???? wtf? but when i drive normally on the street its fine wtf is going on???? also i have noticed my car has been doing some backfiring when shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd im running 93 octane and its got all new plugs ngk R's gapped at 31. i just worried about driving the car on long trips with it doing this.. im only running 5psi do you think this is going to cause detonation???? plz help im worried to death about this!
Godspeed;1134321 said:
Hmmmmm
Edit: figgie got it
BTW - If you have a code 71, you have a California ECU.
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