How is this Possible To lean with Lexus Mod?

jdub

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You can install a WB O2 without the Ultimate...most are independent units.

You want to test to avoid additional cost...that is unless you are going to install a Walbro and AFPR anyway. If you go this route, you need to drill the J tube or bypass it. Also, make sure you get a genuine Walbro and an Aeromotive AFPR...DO NOT go cheap here ;)

"IF" it's a fuel problem, it could also be in your wiring, the FP relay, or the FP resistor....hence preforming the TSRM tests.

Have you checked codes and/or timing lately?
 

black91turbo

Formerly black87turbo
Apr 27, 2006
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I actually went through a similar problem...I had my lex afm installed with lucas 550's AFPR, walboro, wideband, etc(see mods in sig) and I was seeing 16.8-17.8 at idle with the lex afm. I had to switch back to the stock AFM and it was perfect..14.5-15.5 at idle and about 11-12 under boost. I still have not figured out the problem and I am just riding around with the stock AFM. I have no codes, and my timing is spot on. I decided to just do the MAft-pro. But above all, like IJ said, you need something to monitor FP.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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gofastgeorge;1066854 said:
Not quite.......
Before the S-AFC, people were using a long adjustment screw in the Lexus to get the fuel delivery rich enough.
Problem was that it restricted air flow across the entire range,
and the damn screw cost $100.

But with the S-AFC, one can just dial up the fuel in the lower RPM bands.

Actually, the long adjustment screw is to LEAN it out as it BLOCKS the extra unmetered air.
 

gofastgeorge

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No, sorry.........

It causes more air to go by the sensing element,
and causes a higher frequency signal to the ECU,
thus richening the mixture..........
 

jdub

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gofastgeorge;1066965 said:
No, sorry.........

It causes more air to go by the sensing element,
and causes a higher frequency signal to the ECU,
thus richening the mixture..........

George...get your facts straight. The lower passage BYPASSES the Karman Vortex sensor...the extra air effectively causes AFR to go lean. This is why you don't want to use a Lex with 440 injectors. Using 550 injectors balances out the extra unmetered air.

The fancy adjustment screw is a crude way to tune AFR...opening up the passage = lean, closing the passage = rich. The screw can be used to adjust lean OR rich. You can also adjust an AFPR to increase volume for the duration the ECU commands. I did not need the longer screw at all...the shorter stock screw gave me sufficient unmetered air... I used the AFPR and turned FP down to the lower end of spec. I still run rich at boost...it is the nature of this combo without using some sort of piggyback to control fuel.
 

MKIIINA

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gofastgeorge;1066965 said:
No, sorry.........

It causes more air to go by the sensing element,
and causes a higher frequency signal to the ECU,
thus richening the mixture..........

you know normally it only takes one or 2 posts where a person gets called out before they stop. you are clearly a person who strives for higher achievement....

what you said is completely untrue. the larger gap on the bottom of the lex afm allows more UNMETERED air to BYPASS the sensor to lean things out. the larger area of the lexus afm vs the stocker allows you to have more flow.

FC shows up at the same frequency on both because you use the same sensor in both. the difference is on the lex it doesn't "see" as much because you have more air coming in (25% more to be precise) this is balanced out by the 25% increase in injector size it balances it out. george please read up some more before you give out WRONG information...

edit: damn you jdub for your faster fingers!
 

jdub

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:biggrinki

Yep...and it's the 2nd BS post he's made in this thread alone :3d_frown:
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Damn this is like pulling teeth!

There is a logical progression in diagnosing a problem....

DO THE FP CHECK then if it checks out we'll move onto the next step.

Until then everything else is just BS and smoke..... :nono:
 

MKIIINA

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so you have a problem expressing yourself Ian?

That said come on you know you have the quick-and-easy fix-anything-by-turning-one-bolt answer.... quit holding out on us damnit! :biglaugh:
 

Koenigturbo

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Oct 4, 2006
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jdub;1066934 said:
You can install a WB O2 without the Ultimate...most are independent units.

You want to test to avoid additional cost...that is unless you are going to install a Walbro and AFPR anyway. If you go this route, you need to drill the J tube or bypass it. Also, make sure you get a genuine Walbro and an Aeromotive AFPR...DO NOT go cheap here ;)

"IF" it's a fuel problem, it could also be in your wiring, the FP relay, or the FP resistor....hence preforming the TSRM tests.

Have you checked codes and/or timing lately?

Hey J Dub, thanks for you help, reallly!! Wow!shows what I know,.. Yeah thought you needed a a.f.c. to hook up a wb02, apparently not, I guess I would have found if I'd only read the directions. Codes?? no, it hasn't thrown any yet, Timming?? well,it's tenish, what I mean is it surges, hovers around 10. It didn't do that untill I advanced a tooth on the c.p.s because I wanted more retard, I couldn't get any more retarded because it was at it's maxium or full stop. before I moved it one tooth it ran good at a steady ten, but no more laditude I think it surges from a lean condition, but it does stablize. I retarded it because I thought it would help out on the emissions. Qeustion: How do you know if your getting a fake walbro? which Walbro do I need? the 341" (that's not the right number)one or the other one? O.K you guys thanks,.. I'm definitly gonna get it check out!!.......Thank you J dub, and everyone
 

black91turbo

Formerly black87turbo
Apr 27, 2006
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Koenigturbo;1067846 said:
Hey J Dub, thanks for you help, reallly!! Wow!shows what I know,.. Yeah thought you needed a a.f.c. to hook up a wb02, apparently not, I guess I would have found if I'd only read the directions. Codes?? no, it hasn't thrown any yet, Timming?? well,it's tenish, what I mean is it surges, hovers around 10. It didn't do that untill I advanced a tooth on the c.p.s because I wanted more retard, I couldn't get any more retarded because it was at it's maxium or full stop. before I moved it one tooth it ran good at a steady ten, but no more laditude I think it surges from a lean condition, but it does stablize. I retarded it because I thought it would help out on the emissions. Qeustion: How do you know if your getting a fake walbro? which Walbro do I need? the 341" (that's not the right number)one or the other one? O.K you guys thanks,.. I'm definitly gonna get it check out!!.......Thank you J dub, and everyone


you need the 255 walboro....or you can use the $eromotive. :icon_bigg
The fake ones usualy sell for about $60 and the real ones go for 99 shipped on ebay. I would get it from one of our vendors just for peace of mind! Good luck!