How hot is considered overheating?

[Orion ZyGarian]

Thanks for posting that pic destrux...it's also proof that the windshield is a high pressure area, and shimming/anti-trimming the hood only creates stagnant air as it tries to go in and pressurizes the engine bay, which actually loses downforce. Where else is the air going to go?

I agree that it can be tough to try to mess with the aerodynamics of our cars for function, yet keep it from being hideous. I'm trying to work on a good compromise, but I have many, many other things that need attention first.

 

[CyFi6]

Interesting stuff, thanks!

IJ, Ive seen the pics of your pump, looks nice, but the only way I would be able to fit that in there is if I redesigned my intercooler system as mine is set up like stock with the charge pipe passing right where your booster pump sat. What RPM ranges is the stock water pump most efficient and what RPM ranges does it lack? Are all engines/water pumps this way? Why did Toyota do something like this?

Steven Ive got a relatively new clutch on my fan (3 years old, bought it from the dealer). I can still hear the fan roaring when I bring the RPMs up. If I idle for a long time and temps start to rise, if I were to hold the engine RPM up at say 2500, temps would come down. If I turn the AC off I have no issues with temps rising. I dont have the pusher fan in front of the condenser, my car never had one from the factory, but I will be adding one. I do have the dual fans on the back of the radiator that work fine.

If I cruise at 50MPH things stay perfectly cool, but if I cruise at 65 to 70MPH it starts to warm up. I have a W58 and a 4.3 rear end, so at 70MPH I am around 3400RPM, could this have anything to do with it? And also, I DO have the engine under cover in place.

I am also running without any oil cooler at the moment, would adding an oil cooler relieve some of the load off the cooling system?

 

[te72]

Cyrus, to answer your last question there, yes, running an oil cooler relieves heat from the engine as a whole. Surprised you're not running one, even the stock 7m did, unless... wait, you were an NA-T car, weren't you? Nevermind. Definitely something I would look into living down there.

 

[IJ.]

What's the condition of the AC Condensor and Radiator fins?

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

What some people call "overkill" when referring to cooling systems, we in Florida, Texas, and Arizona call "sufficient and necessary!"

 

[CyFi6]

Brad I just rebuilt the engine and installed an oil filter relocation, I am using an NA block so ditched the pressure based cooler until I can muster the funds for a full flow system, which will be installed soon but not before the summer is over most likely.

IJ the condenser is a brand new Toyota unit purchased last summer, fins are all 100% perfect and clear. The radiator was just out for the rebuilt and I straitened the few bent fins and removed the little debris that was there, so they should be clear and good to go. Last summer I thought maybe the radiator was defective, so I swapped it out with a brand new Koyo OEM replacement from DriftMotion and all it did was make it run hotter sooner, so I swapped my upgraded radiator back in.

 

[IJ.]

Damn that sucks... have you actually verified the Temp readings as correct?

 

[CyFi6]

No I haven't looked at the actual coolant temp in a long time. I used to have a water temp gauge in the car but removed it because it just made me worry too much lol. I have a temp gun, I will shoot it at the thermostat housing next time I get a chance to pop the hood when it is running hot.

 

[IJ.]

Some comparative readings on the intake side of the head might be more useful.

 

[Turbo Habanero]

My car hardly makes it to 195f I live in Tucson cyfi I also use Toyota red and I have a 3inch core radiator and fan clutch. But I do not have a under tray or fan shroud at the moment but have not seen any temp rises.

But I also don't run my a/c due to it doesn't blow cold.

 

[jetjock]

People seem to forget that to be sold in this country all cars have to meet cooling criteria set by NTHSA. Just sayin'...

 

[jake8790]

Does the stock gauge change according to coolant temperature or does it sit at one "normal" point until temps get very high? I'm curious because I was driving yesterday in 85* weather climbing a mile long pass at over 100mph and my gauge never changed from 1/3 of the way up. Also stayed in the same place during city driving. I'm using a 3" core aluminum radiator with the stock fan, no shroud, no a/c.

 

[stevenr816]

People seem to forget that to be sold in this country all cars have to meet cooling criteria set by NTHSA. Just sayin'...

Right, but did you forget the small fact that our cars are alittle old. 25 years.
Just sayin' that didn't contribute any help.


Cyrus
I forgot if you answered but how's your fan shroud? Air gaps? Same with air around the rad/condenser being able to flow around it not threw it. We use a lot of foam at our work to get max flow out of the AC systems we do.

Only thing else is have you check led your AC pressures? If your high side is to high you'll be running high condenser temps. During the summer here I pull a tad bit of freeon out of my cars just to help with head pressures. Usually on the minimum side instead of maximum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nick M]

Standards are older than the MA70. They (standards) go through updates.

But I also don't run my a/c due to it doesn't blow cold.

He does. And the BTU content that the condensor pushes into the radiator is very high.

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

You have to remember that nothing is free. The freezing cold air that comes out of the vents (when it works) is regular hot air that has the heat removed and transferred out to the car's cooling system

 

[stevenr816]

You have to remember that nothing is free. The freezing cold air that comes out of the vents (when it works) is regular hot air that has the heat removed and transferred out to the car's cooling system

Transferred threw the cooling system?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nick M]

And "alittle" isn't a word any more than "alot". Ok, enough of the grammar patrol.

 

[CyFi6]

No need to argue about the specifics guys, or this will end up like one of the other threads where someone gets mad and a mod closes it. Going back to the original question...

People seem to forget that to be sold in this country all cars have to meet cooling criteria set by NTHSA. Just sayin'...

Cant forget what you never learned :icon_razz

Really interested in the specifics, especially considering the picture I attached


Steven, fan shroud is perfect. I upgraded to the dual electric puller fans instead of the single that was on my NA, in fact I bought these from you a while back. The shroud is perfect, replaced it with new when I upgraded the fans. The radiator sits tight against the core support and has the stock plastic around the sides to seal it up. I have also put foam around the condenser to prevent air from bypassing it (this will help with AC performance but I guess will hurt cooling system performance slightly). I just charged the AC recently with the specified weight of refrigerant, I don't want to pull any out because that would mean a warmer vent temp.


This picture is what made me bump this thread up. According to Toyota there is nothing wrong with the needle rising all the way up as long as it is not in the small red zone, and even entering the red zone is completely normal for certain operating conditions, such as coming to a stoplight after you get off the freeway, or using the AC in traffic.

 

[jetjock]

...Right, but did you forget the small fact that our cars are alittle old. 25 years.
Just sayin' that didn't contribute any help...

First, them being 25 years old is irrelevant. Second, there was no contribution only if you didn't bother to work "alittle" for it.

 

[te72]

Does the stock gauge change according to coolant temperature or does it sit at one "normal" point until temps get very high? I'm curious because I was driving yesterday in 85* weather climbing a mile long pass at over 100mph and my gauge never changed from 1/3 of the way up. Also stayed in the same place during city driving. I'm using a 3" core aluminum radiator with the stock fan, no shroud, no a/c.

Couple things to consider, the stock gauge is something of a "dummy" gauge. It has a rather large range of temperatures that are considered "normal", but when that stock gauge starts climbing, you really need to be careful not to push it, because the margin for overheating at that point becomes quite narrow.

However, in a place like Oregon, I can't see it getting too hot to matter. In AZ though, where they won't see an 85° temperature until October...

Transferred threw the cooling system?

The condenser is in front of the radiator, so all the heat pulled out of the cabin from the climate control ends up right in front of your radiator. Kinda a roundabout way of putting it, but yes, the heat ends up (somewhat) in your cooling system.