Grandavi;1968748 said:
Interesting... I hadn't heard of that at all... Do you know off hand how much he charges for the assembly? Also do I need the knock module kit for the ms3?
how does my parts list look???
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Interesting... I hadn't heard of that at all... Do you know off hand how much he charges for the assembly? Also do I need the knock module kit for the ms3?
so with this setup i have no clue what hp/torque i will be looking at how should i go about choosing a clutch????
Clutch choice is tough. Personally I would never use a SPEC clutch again and Im not a fan of ACT clutches. I haven't had one other than OEM that I like and you will not be going that route.
Ultimately I want to go OS Geiken for mine, but that's a huge expense.. and may not be worthwhile as I wont be climbing over the 500 rwhp mark.
Ultimately I want to go OS Geiken for mine, but that's a huge expense.. and may not be worthwhile as I wont be climbing over the 500 rwhp mark.
Well, given 1000cc injectors and the stand-alone, you probably are good for over 500 ft-lbs torque, which puts you at a minimum of a stage3+ clutch. That turbo will make all the boost that the 3L displacement is going to take, so how far you go is up to you.
I have an ACT stage 3, which I like, though it took some getting used to. Any puck clutch is going to be somewhat harsh compared to stock, but with what you're planning, a puck clutch is a minimum, or else it's multi-plate.
I have an ACT stage 3, which I like, though it took some getting used to. Any puck clutch is going to be somewhat harsh compared to stock, but with what you're planning, a puck clutch is a minimum, or else it's multi-plate.
I have always been a fan of centerforce clutches in all my trucks.... I know they make them for supras... Has anyone used them??
I'd ditch the EGT setup unless it's a new tech Ethernet one, Your power is going to be limited to whatever the chosen Turbo can flow, good choice on the ID Injectors much newer Tech so should give good idle quality without having to drop the base fuel pressure.jdmfreak;1968707 said:
jdmfreak;1968752 said:
Not sure on the Forged Pistons cost (if you want I can give you Chris' number and you can call and ask if they can make them for you). They are not truly needed, but it does take into account how the engine was designed with the offset wrist pin on the piston. Apparently the firing force is slightly transverse so Toyota moved the piston wrist pins off center to accommodate. I have the Wiseco Pistons 0.004 clearance currently and have had no knock issues. The knock you get isn't really a problem other than if the sensors pick it up it can give you a "false" knock code. I have heard of people taping their knock sensors just to cushion the "forged" rattle.
Like I said.. if I was to do it again.. that is the path I would go. However.. Im happy with my Wiseco pistons.
Remember, knock doesn't set a code, it just retards timing while the ECU thinks that it's happening. The knock sensor code is the code 52, which usually indicates a wiring fault. It does NOT indicate that you're getting knock, it indicates that the ECU isn't sure. The result is that it assumes that you are getting knock and reacts accordingly.
I remember seeing a set of Reg's forged 7M pistons. I'd love to get a set of them, but they weren't in the budget. (Hell the Arias pistons that I got weren't in the budget either, which is part of the reason that I'm so far behind in getting the damned thing installed.)
I remember seeing a set of Reg's forged 7M pistons. I'd love to get a set of them, but they weren't in the budget. (Hell the Arias pistons that I got weren't in the budget either, which is part of the reason that I'm so far behind in getting the damned thing installed.)
It's only going to rattle while it's stone cold and as you're not making power/hammering it it doesn't matter if it's pulling timing, this of course is only if the machine shop clearances it correctly, I ended up doing a triple coating on my forged pistons, Ceramic Crowns Moly Skirts and Heat Dispersant Underneath, I found that with normal tolerances it was a bit rattly most of the time so on the subsequent builds I closed it down a couple of thou and it was silent with nice wear patterns on the Skirts.
Good machine shop Tight clearances and don't worry about it 
got it
My block had .20 over pistons in it before and after honing they are at or just over max clearance for stock pistons , now if I get .40 over pistons for the machine shop to match the bore to, should I be worried about the thickness of metal left between the cylinders???
got it My block had .20 over pistons in it before and after honing they are at or just over max clearance for stock pistons , now if I get .40 over pistons for the machine shop to match the bore to, should I be worried about the thickness of metal left between the cylinders???
I believe Forged pistons have more expansion (hence the extra space) and I have heard up to 5 thou clearance on them. (which is why sometimes they can clatter a little)
Looking forward to seeing this one put together : )
Looking forward to seeing this one put together : )
Grandavi;1969944 said:
So should I wait to order pistons till I find out if I can pass with 20over or should I just go straight for 40???
Awesome thanks makes me feel better :-D would there be any benefit to choosing one size over the other? I know the domestic crowd Braggs up a storm about how big they are bored out.... Maybe that's just for n/a?IJ.;1969969 said:Late Block and safe at 40 thou
jdmfreak;1969973 said:
If you go with .020 you can go .040 next time and not have to sleeve or find another block. And yeah, domestics are largely about displacement. But it isn't going to affect you much.
Edit: Just reread. Looks like you'll have to go .040. Forgot you were .020 over already. Good idea to bring your pistons with your block to the machinist and let him machine accordingly. But you knew that already
jdmfreak;1969973 said:
supranewbie;1971848 said:If you go with .020 you can go .040 next time and not have to sleeve or find another block. And yeah, domestics are largely about displacement. But it isn't going to affect you much.
Edit: Just reread. Looks like you'll have to go .040. Forgot you were .020 over already. Good idea to bring your pistons with your block to the machinist and let him machine accordingly. But you knew that already
^ This, take it to the machinst he can tell you if it'll go +20, Always better to have as much meat in the bores as possible, my brand new 92+ Block had a lot of Core shift compared to my 86.5..