How does Coolant get in Oil in the 7MGTE?

[CyFi6]

This I did not know, I just hammered it in with some FIPG around the edges.

How does one center peen?

I took pics of How I installed it, will post tonight after work

Sounds like this could be the problem, that front welsh plug is a bitch. The front plug is a special type of welsh plug which is close to the same diameter of the hole in the block. Once you put it in place you need to dimple the center of the plug which makes the outer diameter expand and make a tight fit into the block. Its best to let a machine shop do this, because if you dent it in too far you will reduce the size of the plug again and it could pop out. Also make sure you use a good quality plug, I wouldn't use anything besides an OEM plug installed by someone who really knows what they are doing and have done these before. You probably need to do a complete teardown at this point considering all the water that got in the oil.

 

[ATL88Supra]

if you have coolant in the oil the build is already fucked so why bother asking

 

[jetjock]

Welsh plug? Crack me up. That's a lot like Dextron :icon_razz

 

[CyFi6]

Lol, welch. And yes I did think it was Dextron for quite some time.

 

[Nick M]

That's a lot like Dextron :icon_razz

It is even funnier when a "GM World Class Technician" call is Dextron. But to be fair, that just means he is also certified in body shop. As though people that pull dents and paint also work on things that use hexidecimal language. The guy is kind of a riot with things he says.

 

[kaiser]

Sounds like this could be the problem, that front welsh plug is a bitch. The front plug is a special type of welsh plug which is close to the same diameter of the hole in the block. Once you put it in place you need to dimple the center of the plug which makes the outer diameter expand and make a tight fit into the block. Its best to let a machine shop do this, because if you dent it in too far you will reduce the size of the plug again and it could pop out. Also make sure you use a good quality plug, I wouldn't use anything besides an OEM plug installed by someone who really knows what they are doing and have done these before. You probably need to do a complete teardown at this point considering all the water that got in the oil.

Aww Hell, so do I need to pull everything apart and rinse it all off with brake cleaner then re assemble or do I need new bearings.

if you have coolant in the oil the build is already fucked so why bother asking

Wow, super useful dick. Way to chime in with some helpful information. Maybe I am asking so I can get an answer so others can read this and avoid the mistake.


ANYWAY. I understand that now I must at the bare minimum clean all the bearing surfaces.

This motor is not in a supra but a Toyota Pickup and I cannot pull just the block I must pull both block and tranny together. This is not really an option as I have moved to a new town for work and do not have access to a garage with a cherry picker (not sure what you all call them but i am talking about one of these)



So I am Kind of limited to dropping the pan and pulling the head.

Now before someone hops on there high horse and tells me not to be lazy and to pull the motor, understand that I cannot. if I could I would but I can't.

I realize this will greatly affect the longevity of my motor but I can rebuild it in a year or so when I get a house.

Now that this is under stood, what are my options?

 

[suprarx7nut]

You can redo anything in the head with the motor in situ but if you need to do freeze plugs in the block over again I don't think you can fix that in car. Have you determined what exactly needs fixing?

I'd pay a good shop to do it right or find a garage for rent and buy a hoist.

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[kaiser]

You can redo anything in the head with the motor in situ but if you need to do freeze plugs in the block over again I don't think you can fix that in car. Have you determined what exactly needs fixing?

I'd pay a good shop to do it right or find a garage for rent and buy a hoist.

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I am pretty sure it must be mis-instillation of this freeze plug



What exactly would I be paying a shop to do. Noone has answered that. Do I simply need to pull the crank and clean the journals of milky oil?

This motor has NEVER been road driven and its cumulative run time is less then 30 min. Do I REALLY need to rebuild the bottom end or just flush the bottom end?

 

[Another MkIII]

I am pretty sure it must be mis-instillation of this freeze plug

View attachment 67339

What exactly would I be paying a shop to do. Noone has answered that. Do I simply need to pull the crank and clean the journals of milky oil?

This motor has NEVER been road driven and its cumulative run time is less then 30 min. Do I REALLY need to rebuild the bottom end or just flush the bottom end?

Without making assumptions, at the minimum you need to remove and inspect the bearings. Check the clearances, and if they are bad, replace them. Pull the head, disassemble and clean everything. You might get away with that.
-AM3

 

[Bmettie]

I am pretty sure it must be mis-instillation of this freeze plug

View attachment 67339

What exactly would I be paying a shop to do. Noone has answered that. Do I simply need to pull the crank and clean the journals of milky oil?

This motor has NEVER been road driven and its cumulative run time is less then 30 min. Do I REALLY need to rebuild the bottom end or just flush the bottom end?

Is it just me or is it in backwards? It looks like it is in the pic.

"Hump" of the plug should be facing out when installed, then center peened (hammered)

 

[Supracentral]

Without making assumptions, at the minimum you need to remove and inspect the bearings. Check the clearances, and if they are bad, replace them. Pull the head, disassemble and clean everything. You might get away with that.
-AM3

The operative word being might.

This kind of contamination is a death sentence for a motor.

 

[kaiser]

Is it just me or is it in backwards? It looks like it is in the pic.

"Hump" of the plug should be facing out when installed, then center peened (hammered)

It is for sure in backwards, That is the mis-installation I did. I had never encountered a freeze plug like that before.

 

[gats]

Is it just me or is it in backwards? It looks like it is in the pic.

"Hump" of the plug should be facing out when installed, then center peened (hammered)

I think it has been installed backwards.

Pic of my original block for reference...

 

[jake8790]

I would go ahead and disassemble and hot tank everything and get the block surfaced properly for a MHG while you're at it. Replace the bearings. If you don't have the means to pull the engine right now, I would call the project off until you can do it right. I know it's not what you want to hear, but it would suck even more to put it all back together after fixing the freeze plug and then develop rod knock.

 

[ATL88Supra]

I am a dick for telling you how it is OK guess so first off coolant that mixes with oil becomes acid and right now that acid is eating away at every soft metal in that motor that's why the build is fucked. you have to start over to try and save it at this point would cost you more in the longrun

 

[supraguy@aol]

Also, I would expect that plug to be sitting in your oil pan or close to it, at this point.

 

[Nick M]

It is for sure in backwards, That is the mis-installation I did. I had never encountered a freeze plug like that before.

For future refrence....you can take the oil pump bearings and plugs to the machine shop with the pistons and they can do that for you. Correctly.

 

[kaiser]

For future refrence....you can take the oil pump bearings and plugs to the machine shop with the pistons and they can do that for you. Correctly.

There are no Machine shops capable of doing a MHG decking for 3 hours. Problem with living in Rural Canada. I see the problem with the acidic Coolant. This blows. Ok, Well I will pull the oil pan off and clean it. Then pull the bearings. If they have any hint of scoring or discoloration I will have to change them. I know its the right thing to do but I dont have a clean indoor area with a flat floor to do it. It would take me 3 weeks because I am out of town working 5 days a week. So a weekend to pull it, a weekend to re build it and a weekend to put it back in. FML

 

[ATL88Supra]

you are missing the point, you need to hot tank it now cause that acid is all over the block and head now, you could change the oil 20 times and it will still have traces of it, spend the extra time drive 3 hrs if you have to or pick a different motor for your truck
you don't play with fate on a 7mgte

 

[suprarx7nut]

There are no Machine shops capable of doing a MHG decking for 3 hours. Problem with living in Rural Canada. I see the problem with the acidic Coolant. This blows. Ok, Well I will pull the oil pan off and clean it. Then pull the bearings. If they have any hint of scoring or discoloration I will have to change them. I know its the right thing to do but I dont have a clean indoor area with a flat floor to do it. It would take me 3 weeks because I am out of town working 5 days a week. So a weekend to pull it, a weekend to re build it and a weekend to put it back in. FML

To pull the pan I assume you'll take out the motor, right? At that point you should really drive it out to a machinist to have it cleaned and get the plugs and oil pump bearing installed correctly. This stuff is cheap to have done and is well worth the 12 hours in drive time there and back. You can also have them prep it for MHG and have a stout motor.

I just don't see this going well if u do it on your own on a dirty floor. I mean that in no way be offensive or personal. Its a performance engine in a performance car. Time to treat it like one.

The time and convenience you could save now will be greatly outweighed if the motor needs another rebuild in a few months.

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