i opened up the green connector to the cps and one end was the 4 pins and the other was the connections. my question is, is there a way to fix the cps connector by soldering? i don't have much skill with wires and pins so what would i have to do? im pretty sure it's getting a bad connection though somehow, because my supra will start randomly when it wants to and everything else in with ignition is fine.
how do you fix a cps connector?
- Thread starter mk3_89turbo
- Start date
Are the connectors OK inside the housings?If you already know how to get them out of the housings, you can contact DrTweak and buy new housings that will hold the wires correctly. It is more common though for your wiring to be faulty because of the exhaust side heat. If your housings are good, you may try getting new terminals with a seaction of good wiring to solder in to the harness in place of your bad wiring. DRTweak sells that too.
Because these are prone to problems I fixed mine by doing just what you asked about. I cut the connector out and soldered the wires together; wrapped them individually and as a bundle. I haven't had a problem since. I can still get the CPS out and on top of the engine if needed. No more random problems and if you ever have to the wires can be reheated and separated.
ok im a little confused...so either i can buy a 4 pin trailer connector, or cut the connector off (the one with the 4 pins?) and solder them straight to the wires?
so with a 4 pin connector how would i hook that up?-- annd can someone elaborate on how im suppose to solder the wires without the connector? sorry still learning...
so with a 4 pin connector how would i hook that up?-- annd can someone elaborate on how im suppose to solder the wires without the connector? sorry still learning...
- You cut the wires, strip a small section of insulation (about 1/4-3/8"), and 'tin' the wire ends. This is done by putting some solder on the iron, and runnning it along the exposed wire section. Soldering flux makes this easier (you can get it at Sears), as the amount of flux in rosin core solder is just enough to be worthless.
- After you tin the wires, take a section of heat shrink (about 1/2") and slide it over each of the wires you're going to solder....just one side of the joint, so either on the harness side or CPS side.
- Once you have the wires tinned and the heat shrink on, you want to take a SMALL pair of needle-nose pliers and bend the tinned ends into a hook.
- Then hook the two ends together, squeeze gently with the pliers to close the hook ends, and put a tiny drop of flux on the joint.
- Put solder on the end of your iron, hold the joint taut, and apply the solder to the joint. After it flows together, you can remove the iron, wait a few seconds, and move to the next wire.
- When all of your joints are done, take a small brush (small wedge paint brush with stiff bristles would probaby work, or even a clean/new cheap toothbrush) and some rubbing alcohol (91% or higher), and clean the flux off of your joints, as flux can cause corrosion down the road.
- Then, slide the heat shrink over the joint, and pass the heat shrink through the flame of a lighter until it's shrunk-down and conformed to the wire and joint.
You're done. :bigthumb:
- After you tin the wires, take a section of heat shrink (about 1/2") and slide it over each of the wires you're going to solder....just one side of the joint, so either on the harness side or CPS side.
- Once you have the wires tinned and the heat shrink on, you want to take a SMALL pair of needle-nose pliers and bend the tinned ends into a hook.
- Then hook the two ends together, squeeze gently with the pliers to close the hook ends, and put a tiny drop of flux on the joint.
- Put solder on the end of your iron, hold the joint taut, and apply the solder to the joint. After it flows together, you can remove the iron, wait a few seconds, and move to the next wire.
- When all of your joints are done, take a small brush (small wedge paint brush with stiff bristles would probaby work, or even a clean/new cheap toothbrush) and some rubbing alcohol (91% or higher), and clean the flux off of your joints, as flux can cause corrosion down the road.
- Then, slide the heat shrink over the joint, and pass the heat shrink through the flame of a lighter until it's shrunk-down and conformed to the wire and joint.
You're done. :bigthumb:
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Alright thank you!! Ok getting ready to attempt this but one more question---with the wires do they just connect with the wire that's going through the harness to the wire on the cps side? Cause there all different colors?
You want to match them up exactly as they sit in the connector, so it'd probably be best to write down on a piece of paper what color harness wire connects to what color cps wire.
Alternatively, you could also do one wire at a time, i.e., cut one wire pairing out of the connector, extend/solder, then move onto the next pairing.
Alternatively, you could also do one wire at a time, i.e., cut one wire pairing out of the connector, extend/solder, then move onto the next pairing.
If it were me, I'd replace whatever is broken with new stuff from Toyota.
Both sides of the connector are available from Toyota. I believe I've posted the part numbers before.
Jeff
Both sides of the connector are available from Toyota. I believe I've posted the part numbers before.
Jeff
Sometimes. Regardless, I wouldn't want some trailer wiring on my CPS.
I'd order new wiring from Toyota too.
Jeff
I'd order new wiring from Toyota too.
Jeff