i always want to buy a mkiii, i also did some research about the car, since i noticed there is a headgasket blown problem with MKIII, i was so dispointed, cuz i was so sure i will buy one of those, i like how it looks, powerful engine. i can say i love that car.
how do u guys deal with the headgasket?
- Thread starter coke
- Start date
Step 1
Remove Motor
Step 2
Sell Motor to scrap yard for $10.00 Cash money
Step 3
Buy a real motor (2JZ no shit)
Step 4
Live Well and Prosper
:icon_bigg
Remove Motor
Step 2
Sell Motor to scrap yard for $10.00 Cash money
Step 3
Buy a real motor (2JZ no shit)
Step 4
Live Well and Prosper
:icon_bigg
jawsgear;1139247 said:
LOL jawsgear .... there is nothing wrong with the stock head gasket the issue is the tq specs and when people do a head gasket job they do a horrible job at it. I have been on stock head gasket for almost 3 years now and I haven’t had an issue. Keep in mind I am very hard on the car and I am pushing 15psi…
Step 1 would be to tell jawsgear to keep that bull shit to himself
Step 2 the problem with the stock head gasket stems from the low torque specs of 54lbs or something around there. The most cost effective way of dealing with it is to get a new stock style head gasket and do the little work it takes to clean the head and block and torque it down to 75lbs along with a set of ARP studs or bolts either one will be just fine.
Step 3 do the basic maintance stuff first before performance, meaning check the compression, if everything checks out the start by changing the thermostat, belts, all the fluids, plugs, wires, and focus on the idea of quality. In most cases you get what you pay for.
Step 4 tell jawsgear to keep that bull shit to himself again
Step 5 support SupraMania!
jawsgear i m just messing wit ya
if you are going to maintain stockish power levels, the OEM headbolts will suffice just fine at 80 ft/lb
Well the tq specs depend on a couple things ..... if u go with arp studs/bolts follow their specs and directions. The tq specs change when you use moly lube or any other type of oil/lube etc.
bountykilla0118;1139268 said:
Don't follow ARP's torque specs, I have found them to be wrong on more than one occasion. Consult a actual machine shop that builds motors for a living as I do not know the answer for the spec, but ARP spec is under rated. Been there done that.
I deal with the BHG's with pure 3,4,5-trimethoxyphenethylamine
You'll forget about them in no time.
You'll forget about them in no time.
a decent shop will charge somewhere around 300 to 600 for a basic felpro head gasket, arp head stud and machining the head.
Or you can do the work yourself in the neighborhood of $200
Seriously, you can either retorque the head bolts or replace the gasket + ARP studs
Seriously, you can either retorque the head bolts or replace the gasket + ARP studs
well lets see how i dealt with it. used to be a honda head and no not one that went to autzone and bought a can and put it on and thought i could run 10s:biglaugh:. I was all about the integra swapping k20s. But my uncle had boughten a mk3 and wasnt the smartest with cars. My cousin got him the deal and they didn't know about the torque specs and problems. so they replace the hg and yet again it blew. I was basically forced to buy the car for $600 with loads of problems. Took out the GE and swapped in a GTE than TOTTALEEDDDDDD.:3d_frown:. Than bought another one and that was swapped out for a 1j and than yet again drunk drivers win the battles of car crashes that one was compacted into about half the width. You kind of learn to deal with BHG. You take it and re-do it.
I have yet to see many people buy a MK3 and say I won't build it. They usually end up going small power gains and than go bigger. Its somethign we can't help. If you are a mechanic and do your own work its easy as pie. Just usualy is waiting for parts.
Get a MK3 and as jawsgears said swap in a 2j. DO head work. T70. and have a fun time. And love your Supra:love:
I have yet to see many people buy a MK3 and say I won't build it. They usually end up going small power gains and than go bigger. Its somethign we can't help. If you are a mechanic and do your own work its easy as pie. Just usualy is waiting for parts.
Get a MK3 and as jawsgears said swap in a 2j. DO head work. T70. and have a fun time. And love your Supra:love:
jawsgear;1139273 said:
not in the case of a 7mgte head...as there is coolant passages all around the headbolts and I wouldn't risk over torqueing and crushing the head....our heads are hollow all round those damn bolts....the arp specs are fine and recomended!
Welcome to the forum. Here's my take on the HG issue. Many Supras are fixed on the cheap, and when you cut corners on the HG issue, you might have to redo it. So do it right, do it once (I've never had to redo the HG in any of my Supras). Better yet, read up on how to do it right, and then buy a clean Supra that has had the HG properly repaired and well documented. Now, if your budget allows it, buy a properly swapped 2JZ car and never look back.coke;1139244 said:
gaboonviper85;1139686 said:
I haven't seen "crushed heads" from over torque, but I have seen cracks in 7m blocks between the head bolt hole and the cylinder walls, that were almost certainly attributable to over-torquing. Many engine blocks will crack like this when severely overtightened.
Not to mention ARP specifically says not to over torque their hardware above spec...there's a very good reason for that
suprabad;1139876 said:
those cracks happen.....simply cause shit happens....motors that have never even had the head taken off before can have those cracks and we all know over torqueing isnt a problem with toyota....bhg and detonation are imo the cause of those cracks...
over torqueing will not help the cracks and can promote cracking yeah i agree to that...but most the cracks in the 7m motors around those bolts has nothing to do with over torque....
arp doesnt want there hardware to fail under stress and our heads can be deformed under heat and overtorqued bolts....
i think IJ has a pic of a cross sectioned 7m head he made that shows why we cant tighten down our heads like a SOB.
webbs7mgte;1139683 said:
Nice story just imagine if you would have been inside a 10s crx & been hit by the drunk, Thank god for our tanks.
I to would buy a 1 or 2jz swap if you have enough money do it. I have been tainted to be honest I lost 3 7MGEs to rodknock to BHG oil was all synthetic changed regularly I think the rodknock issue is because the 7M drives the pump off the timming belt maybe? I dont know but they loose oil pressure from bearing wear bad pumps or something then number 4,5,6 punches the piston out the block eventualy.
7M is nothing like the 22R/22RE for reliabilty factory even though most of the 7M problems could be corrected with proper mechanical intervention.