How do I get my stock 7MGTE to 350 WHP?

[Motofool]

id hope the ring land on the turbo piston is stronger, but both are cast pistons so they can only go so far before becoming mushroom shaped striped slugs

myself i like running a higher comp turbo motor but there are issues that come with it and someone that doesn't have the knowledge may get burnt by this. by upping the static comp ratio you make more power yes, but you are slightly limiting your max boost because now you have less volume in the combustion chamber so this is something you have to account for tuning and building the motor. this shouldn't be a large issue at low boost levels but it will be a problem around 20psi or higher. at these level you probably need to search for a new type of fuel then 93 octane.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Actually, both are hyperuretic pistons. The primary difference is that the NA pistons are not dished on top, so they provide a higher compression ratio. As far as I have been able to deermine, all other aspects of the pistons is the same.

That sort of makes sense, in that there really isn't that much difference in stock power putput from the two motors.

While the higher compression does limit how far you can take the boost, on stock, or slightly elevated boost levels, the higher compression will just make more power, both on and off boost.

I'm not as certain about the benefit of the NA intake cam overall, though it has been shown to produce some good results with turbo motors in other regards, as well in the lower power band.

This build was one that I was considering, but I decided that I wanted to leave my options open for more power later, should I want to.

 

[need new tires]

gixxer750,

I thought about N/A pistons to when I did my rebuild, but decided not too in favor of higher HP. But I had a civic once...and had a built motor with higher compression pistons and it was fast...like you said, more power with less psi and less turbo lag....that will be my next project...a 7m with a comp of 10:1 with an upgraded ct26 just for fun to see how it turns out!!!

well you described the setup in my n\a-t. Mods10:1 CR(milled head)on stock engine with mhg and arps, stock ct-26, P&P exhaust mani, gte electronics, intake, stock IC and stock DP with punched out cat and turbo exhaust.

with stock boost i could hit full spool @2200 rpm

this year the plan is 60trim ct, COP, 3" full exhaust, FMIC and 2.5" hard pipes,pcv evac setup,walbro 255, afpr, maft-pro and alki injection.
goal is around 400rwhp and gobes of toque with dd status.

 

[gixxer750]

For arguments sake, this is for someone doing a rebuild that has mild mods, does not want to go big turbo or anything of the sort.

This setup is good for stock engine management, 10-12 psi(just under fuel cut), stock or upgraded CT, intake, exhaust and downpipe. It will make 12-17% more power than a standard GTE with the same mods but stock internals. It will feel much much better in the low range and around town. If you plan on going further, its not for you.

This is just a way to get some power cheaply since everyone always asked. It will make around 350 whp for dirt cheap.

There...lol

 

[JesseH]

ok, not meaning to thread jack, but concitering this threads topic what ballpark range am I looking at with running a fresh ct26, walbro fuel pump, FFIM, FMIC, 2.5" hard pipes, q45 throttle body, Aeromotive AFPR, 3" elbow, 3" HKS ceramic coated DP, and a 3" exhaust with no cat, MSD wires ,Greddy Rs bov, K&N intake, HKS MHG and ARP's? Just got me wondering now because not too many people run a FFIM on a stock CT. and Im hoping to have it running here in a couple months.

 

[CajunKenny]

So then where would I be sitting HP wise with the following mods?

Upgraded CT-26 (57 or 60 trim. Haven't decided yet)
ARP Head Studs
Cometic or HKS MHG
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Lexus AFM
K&N
3" open exhaust from the turbo back
Muffler with a removable baffle
12 psi - boost
Hard Pipe Kit

Everything else stock.

Another question is: Since I'm to this point, is there something else I should do to get a substantial gain for daily driver status or is this pretty much it?

You know, one of those deals like "Oh you could've got about 10 hp by doing this while you were there; but, now you'd have to do a bunch of work to do it."

 

[Boost_happy]

that should put you damn close to 350hp
I made 260hp and 320lbs torque at the wheels in my 90' with the stock turbo @ 11psi with ebay downpipe, ported elbow, ported mani, 3" exhaust, MHG/ARPs, and FMIC
Ran a 13.6@ 102mph with a 2.0 60ft on street tires

 

[JesseH]

So then where would I be sitting HP wise with the following mods?

Upgraded CT-26 (57 or 60 trim. Haven't decided yet)
ARP Head Studs
Cometic or HKS MHG
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Lexus AFM
K&N
3" open exhaust from the turbo back
Muffler with a removable baffle
12 psi - boost
Hard Pipe Kit

Everything else stock.

Another question is: Since I'm to this point, is there something else I should do to get a substantial gain for daily driver status or is this pretty much it?

You know, one of those deals like "Oh you could've got about 10 hp by doing this while you were there; but, now you'd have to do a bunch of work to do it."

you shouldnt do just the lex AFM by itself, if you do it you should also go with 550's, not saying its never been done, just most people wouldnt do it. Plus you dont have any sort of tuning device listed, so you wouldnt be able to tune it correctly.

 

[CajunKenny]

you shouldnt do just the lex AFM by itself, if you do it you should also go with 550's, not saying its never been done, just most people wouldnt do it. Plus you dont have any sort of tuning device listed, so you wouldnt be able to tune it correctly.

Yeah, I would either go with the 550's or send my 440's to RC for balancing.

I'm currently waiting to hear from DrJonez on a MAFT Pro.

 

[JesseH]

Yeah, I would either go with the 550's or send my 440's to RC for balancing.

I'm currently waiting to hear from DrJonez on a MAFT Pro.

well in that case you should be good to go. If you go with the 550s be sure not to get Venom, they will kill your motor sooner or later lol

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

I held out on ont he Lexus AFM until I could also get the 550 injectors. I agree, that it's something that most people would not do, because really... I believe that it is something that you SHOULD not do.

 

[CajunKenny]

I held out on ont he Lexus AFM until I could also get the 550 injectors. I agree, that it's something that most people would not do, because really... I believe that it is something that you SHOULD not do.

Not even with balanced and blueprinted 440's?

 

[IJ.]

It'll be lean unless you really crank the fuel pressure.

 

[JesseH]

and even by cranking up the fuel pressure your going to put a heavy load on the injectors

 

[CajunKenny]

So then is the general consensus that 550's are a MUST with a Lexus AFM?

 

[87nasupra]

yes, IMO i would keep the 440's with stock afm untill you get a good set of non-venom 550 injectors........then throw those puppies in with a lex and do a good tune. GL

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Yep. Even flowmatched 440s are still 440s.

As mentioned, you could probably crank up the fuel pressure, but you'd still run lean. Better to run the larger injectors on lower fuel pressure. That will produce a more reliable engine (I believe that reliability is one of your goals, correct?)

Running the 440s with the Lexus AFM will max out the correction in the TCCS, and will run lean until the TCCS "learns" from the O2 sensor in closed loop mode. This means that if anything interrupts the TCCS, and it resets back to factory defaults, it will run lean at WOT as well, and the result will be a blown motor.

The TCCS by default does run the engine rich. While this isn't optimised for power, it is SAFE. In closed loop mode the TCCS adapts to the O2 sensor regardless, so it runs at or very near stoich. It's WOT (open loop mode) that bad things will happen though, because that's when the engine is under the most strain. Run it lean then, and it's game over. The people who do try running stock injectors on a Lexus AFM do so to try to lean out the mixture, to make more power. They are taking a risk in order to maximise the engine's potential, but in doing so they are making a less long-term reliable motor. For your stated goals (And mine too) there are much safer and more reliable ways to get that extra power, which will result in a daily-driver reliable engine.

 

[CajunKenny]

That is awesome info! Thanks guys!

Through another member in my area, I found a competant shop so my block is going in for work this week. I was quoted a 1-2 day turnaround for the amount of work I'm having done.

It won't be long after that and my baby will be back to rippin up the streets!

My goal is to have her back on the road by March 1st. I can't wait!

I was considering putting a 'My Build' thread together. We'll see...

Thanks again!