Hoodpins + Stupidity
- Thread starter ridah
- Start date
The hood pins come into play in that I was unable to open the hood via the latch as a coolant hose had also let loose, there was WAY to much heat. I would have been able to pull the pins and get the hood up enough to hit the base of the fire and save the car. It is also very common during a frontal impact to jam up the latch system on the hood.
For the record I am a FireMan, there was no way to hit that fire without open that hood. I could have swung it with hood pins, but without them, getting to that latch required protective gear.
And also lets remember that the car is one of the heavier modified cars on this board, there is a tremedous amount of heat when running that sp71gtq around town even with all the ceramic coatings and crap on the tubular manifold and piping. There is nothing on my car for show. If it does not have a legitamate purpose, it is not on there at this time. (bomex to be the exception in a bit)/
For the record I am a FireMan, there was no way to hit that fire without open that hood. I could have swung it with hood pins, but without them, getting to that latch required protective gear.
And also lets remember that the car is one of the heavier modified cars on this board, there is a tremedous amount of heat when running that sp71gtq around town even with all the ceramic coatings and crap on the tubular manifold and piping. There is nothing on my car for show. If it does not have a legitamate purpose, it is not on there at this time. (bomex to be the exception in a bit)/
CJ: Do you have any pics of the aftermath?
I had an oil fire on my old T04 Lancer when the feed line burst but I was able to put it out without even losing the paint on the hood.
I had an oil fire on my old T04 Lancer when the feed line burst but I was able to put it out without even losing the paint on the hood.
Be careful with those fucking aftermarket hoods and driving with your top off. This is what happens when you should have had hood pins but didn't have them installed yet.
You can't tell from the picture, but the windshield is completely shattered.
This one landed me in the ER. The hood bend down into the cabin and busted me in the head. The picture shows the hood after I de-tacoed it from the front windshield and out of the cabin.
You can't tell from the picture, but the windshield is completely shattered.
This one landed me in the ER. The hood bend down into the cabin and busted me in the head. The picture shows the hood after I de-tacoed it from the front windshield and out of the cabin.
outofstep said:Be careful with those fucking aftermarket hoods and driving with your top off. This is what happens when you should have had hood pins but didn't have them installed yet.
You can't tell from the picture, but the windshield is completely shattered.
This one landed me in the ER. The hood bend down into the cabin and busted me in the head. The picture shows the hood after I de-tacoed it from the front windshield and out of the cabin.
Holy crap good to see your still ok after that. I have a hardtop and it ended up putting dents in the roof. Mine hood looks very similar to that right now (rear of hood becomes shimmed for without labor) .
whitemk3 said:
Two things. First off, when you pull the hood release from inside the cockpit, the latch is what pops the hood up enough to get you fingers under it. Without the latch, you have to 'dig' the hood up enough to get your fingers under the hood. Second, take a little more time checking your hoses & connections in order to avoid fires in the first place. 99.9% of car fires could be avoided with better preventive maintainance.
I just said that u pop the latch from inside the car and then have to get the hood up to pop the lever inside. With hood pins both of these things are eliminated meaning that u just pop the pins and open the hood. Also it was the hoses or connections that caused the fire he is running a larger turbo that u can see in the pic. The turbo creates a whole lot more heat which caused the intial fire and caused everything to burn. aight peacerakkasan said:
CJ: Thanks for posting thatcjennings said:
Man that almost bought a tear to my eye!
(After reading this thread this morning I went out and bought a new extinguisher for the Supra)
Rakkasan
For the record about your comment concerning check the hoses to prevent the fire... I likely had more money in hoses than most people have in there entire car on this board. I am a maintence freak and I am blessed with the ability to play (or pay out)like out big MK4 brothers.
Do not compair a modified ct-26 engine to what I was running, there is a whole other set of issues pushing serious power levels out of a big turbo kit. Everything on the car was custom, including the wireharness made from scratch and there was no factory computers left in the car, that is a hurculean effort. Going through that much effort you do not go cheap on hoses, almost all my hoses where replaced with new.
My only mistake was that I did not replace all the hoses as yet with stainless steel lines, and I mean every hose. The hose I am guessing let go was the heater core hose that comes of the side if the engine to heater core solonoid. If physically failed from the heat of the turbo. My engine components where completely ceramic coated, I ran a fluidine rad, redline fluid and full out push and pull fan set up, remote oil cooler and full synthetic to try to keep the temps down. It is a whole other word when you start getting north of 500 hp.....
For the record about your comment concerning check the hoses to prevent the fire... I likely had more money in hoses than most people have in there entire car on this board. I am a maintence freak and I am blessed with the ability to play (or pay out)like out big MK4 brothers.
Do not compair a modified ct-26 engine to what I was running, there is a whole other set of issues pushing serious power levels out of a big turbo kit. Everything on the car was custom, including the wireharness made from scratch and there was no factory computers left in the car, that is a hurculean effort. Going through that much effort you do not go cheap on hoses, almost all my hoses where replaced with new.
My only mistake was that I did not replace all the hoses as yet with stainless steel lines, and I mean every hose. The hose I am guessing let go was the heater core hose that comes of the side if the engine to heater core solonoid. If physically failed from the heat of the turbo. My engine components where completely ceramic coated, I ran a fluidine rad, redline fluid and full out push and pull fan set up, remote oil cooler and full synthetic to try to keep the temps down. It is a whole other word when you start getting north of 500 hp.....
I have a pair of Nomex gloves in the "glovebox" since originally reading about your fire cjennings. I've got to find a better place for the extingusher than rolling around behind the seat....
LoL, I have a set of Mechanix M16 nomex gloves, the same that they use in F1 and nascar now in the glove box as well. Once this new engine is all in, I think I am seriously going to look in a fire supression system for the engine bay.
whitemk3 said:
I understand that, but I have another car that the latch spring doesn't work, so I have to pry my fingers in the 3/16" gap between the hood & the apron to get the hood open. It's rather tough to do, it just seems easier to open by having a latch that will raise it enough to get your hand underneath.
whitemk3 said:
I've never messed with a turbo that big, so I'm not familiar with that much heat. It seems to be a lot of heat to cause a fire without a catalyst, though. Must bubble the paint on the hood.
BTW, I didn't mean to piss in anyones Wheaties.
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No harm taken
You catalyst statement is correct, you would need temps around 1200 deg if I remember right to flash a hose. What happened was the temp degraded the host (new hose and we are talking about 40 hrs on the engine) and the hoseline separated and then shot hot collant onto the turbo mainfold which steamed instantly, the steam we think caused the hose to sag even more and it came into direct contact with the glowing red hot turbo manifold or downpipe causing the actual start of the fire.
The fire took a long time to start, it started small, but there was to much steam to get the hood open. I had scald burns on my arms for weeks afterwards. I tried, that was a shity night.
You catalyst statement is correct, you would need temps around 1200 deg if I remember right to flash a hose. What happened was the temp degraded the host (new hose and we are talking about 40 hrs on the engine) and the hoseline separated and then shot hot collant onto the turbo mainfold which steamed instantly, the steam we think caused the hose to sag even more and it came into direct contact with the glowing red hot turbo manifold or downpipe causing the actual start of the fire.
The fire took a long time to start, it started small, but there was to much steam to get the hood open. I had scald burns on my arms for weeks afterwards. I tried, that was a shity night.
no, without the hood latch assembly, the hood will NOT pop up enough to get your hands underneath it. you need to dig your finger tips under the edges of the hood and lift up that heavy piece of shit with the tips of your fingers. it takes longer and your hand is in contact w/ the hood longer when the hood does NOT pop up. also, try to pry your fingers between the hood and body work when wearing your fancy nomex gloves... its NOT going to happen.
hood pins are for hoods that dont have provisions for the stock latch... and ricers.
anyone who adds hood pins to a properly functioning hood and latch assembly is quite simply a poser. and what is a ricer? a poser... er, poseur.
and i dont have to be a fireman to know this, but when you have an engine compartment fire and a hood that does NOT stand up on its own, you will have a hell of a time putting it out. the SECOND that hood comes up, the fire gets a rush of fresh air and it flares up, sending flames up the hood, right to your hands where you are holding the hood. too bad those nomex gloves dont cover your entire arm and face. ive seen nitrous backfires that started underhood fires and no one could open the hood since the fire flared up as soon as it was pulled up. the best they could do was shoot supressant from UNDER the car.
hood pins are for hoods that dont have provisions for the stock latch... and ricers.
anyone who adds hood pins to a properly functioning hood and latch assembly is quite simply a poser. and what is a ricer? a poser... er, poseur.
and i dont have to be a fireman to know this, but when you have an engine compartment fire and a hood that does NOT stand up on its own, you will have a hell of a time putting it out. the SECOND that hood comes up, the fire gets a rush of fresh air and it flares up, sending flames up the hood, right to your hands where you are holding the hood. too bad those nomex gloves dont cover your entire arm and face. ive seen nitrous backfires that started underhood fires and no one could open the hood since the fire flared up as soon as it was pulled up. the best they could do was shoot supressant from UNDER the car.
^ Exactly! If your engine catches fire, you're screwed. That's it. Over and done. Unless you have a foaming system mounted in the bay.. and if you're that worried about fire, you ought to.
NEVER open a hood when the engine's aflame.
NEVER open a hood when the engine's aflame.
Hood pins are pretty useless if you already have a good working latch assembly. They look retarded on a mostly stock car and are more of a hassle to put up with as well.
