hks metal head gasket
- Thread starter supramen
- Start date
It's torqued a little high if it was at 88 ft/lbs, but you should still be ok. You are not exceeding the stud's rated strength.
well i did a lot of research at the time and it seemed 88ft/lbs was the prefered torque for the mhg. I had a thread on it on sf or here i can't remember. Some people were running 100ft/lbs + and they SAID it was ok. But anyway i hope it holds up.
and I will retorque always from now on.
and I will retorque always from now on.
Well...did your research include these?
APR is very specific about torque spec and it changes depending on the lube used. For the old studs...81 ft/lbs w/ moly, 105 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. For the new studs...80 ft/lbs w/ moly, 120 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. Read this (including the side links):
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
As previously stated, 88 ft/lbs using moly for lube is likely not going to hurt anything, but you are cutting in to the 25% yield strength margin ARP designs for it's studs. There is a ton of different opions on torque for ARP hardware...suggest you listen to the folks that made them
So do I...wonder why that is
APR is very specific about torque spec and it changes depending on the lube used. For the old studs...81 ft/lbs w/ moly, 105 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. For the new studs...80 ft/lbs w/ moly, 120 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. Read this (including the side links):
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
As previously stated, 88 ft/lbs using moly for lube is likely not going to hurt anything, but you are cutting in to the 25% yield strength margin ARP designs for it's studs. There is a ton of different opions on torque for ARP hardware...suggest you listen to the folks that made them
IJ. said:I always retorque always....
So do I...wonder why that is
Wow 5 retroques
I should have read that. I actually just gave the guy the box. I never opened it. jdub i read most of it. I get that the torque seems to be all in the lube. Im glad i didn't go higher than 88 thats for sure.
Its safe to back off one bolt at a time on the metal hg when retorquing right?
I should have read that. I actually just gave the guy the box. I never opened it. jdub i read most of it. I get that the torque seems to be all in the lube. Im glad i didn't go higher than 88 thats for sure.
Its safe to back off one bolt at a time on the metal hg when retorquing right?
The lube is the most important factor...changes things rather dramatically. The 5 torque cycles talked about in the ARP link is for the initial installation...once the motor has been heat cycled, it becomes moot. The purpose is to reduce the coefficient of friction on the threads to get the most accurate torque reading when using a wrench.
When you do a re-torque, all you have to do is just "crack" the nut counter clockwise. Then torque back to spec...in your case, I would use the 88 ft/lbs since that is what the studs were heat cycled at. Use the TRSM pattern.
To be honest, I have never seen studs loosen up after properly torqued the 1st time...doesn't mean they can't loosed up though. I have seen bolts (both ARP and stock) require a re-torque due to head expansion. I always do a re-torque (studs or bolts) as a matter of good engine building practice...it's a habit that I have to make absolutely sure that head is down like it should be
When you do a re-torque, all you have to do is just "crack" the nut counter clockwise. Then torque back to spec...in your case, I would use the 88 ft/lbs since that is what the studs were heat cycled at. Use the TRSM pattern.
To be honest, I have never seen studs loosen up after properly torqued the 1st time...doesn't mean they can't loosed up though. I have seen bolts (both ARP and stock) require a re-torque due to head expansion. I always do a re-torque (studs or bolts) as a matter of good engine building practice...it's a habit that I have to make absolutely sure that head is down like it should be
Ok that kinda ticks me off. Why does the instructions that come with the studs like Jdub posted not say anything about 5 cycles? I used three. Since I have already reached my final torque, does that mean that redoing them with 5 cycles would be a waste of time? No the motor hasnt been heat cycled.
Also when I was going through the torque cycles I was confused on how some nuts I would have to turn more and pull harder than others to reach the next torque. I was wondering if the arp lube got down in between the washer and nut on some but not others. Or maybe i need to get my torque wrench calibrated although its not that old and hasnt been used that much either. Any one else noticed this?
Also when I was going through the torque cycles I was confused on how some nuts I would have to turn more and pull harder than others to reach the next torque. I was wondering if the arp lube got down in between the washer and nut on some but not others. Or maybe i need to get my torque wrench calibrated although its not that old and hasnt been used that much either. Any one else noticed this?
Three should be enough. All you are doing is minimizing the coefficient of friction between the nut/stud threads to get an accurate torque. Why ARP doesn't provide the detail on the sheet? :dunno:
I realize that this is my first engine build and all. But this is important information. Just as much so or more than the info they do include in the instructions. I wouldnt think a manufacturer would expect a customer to research their website on techniques on how to use their product when it comes with instructions. I assumed, like many others im sure, that this was all the info needed. Oh well whats done is done. Thanks for the encouragement Dub