hks metal head gasket
- Thread starter supramen
- Start date
Yes you can reuse both depending on the condition of the headgasket. You just have to make sure that you prepare the Metal Headgasket right so thats its nice and clean or it will not last very long.
You must take ALL the Viton coating off every layer of the MHG before you can reuse them. Once that is done, I would personaly put a light layer of permatex on the MHG, let it sit till it's tacky, then reinstal. If there are any signs of damage to the actuall MHG though, trash it, buy something else 
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That's another reason why I like ARP studs. If you torque them correctly after your final pass, then your retorque after heat cycling, you can use them again and again as long as they aren't physically damaged (checking for stretch is still a great thing to do though that most people will overlook). Best thing about reusing ARP studs is if they are ok and installed correctly as previously mentioned, no retorque is required after your final pass.
More around after 4-5 heat cycles preferrably, this is with studs of course. If you haven't done it yet, then hop to it asap.
No probs . How long have you been running on those studs w/o retorque? Driving preference and boost setting?
. How long have you been running on those studs w/o retorque? Driving preference and boost setting?
actually...you DO NOT have to retorque STUDS if you torque sequenced them properly when putting them on. only BOLTS.
as for the original question...yes and yes BUT IMO spend the extra 120 bucks and just get a new mhg because reusing one leaves a LOT of variables in play for the "user" to mess up.
as for the original question...yes and yes BUT IMO spend the extra 120 bucks and just get a new mhg because reusing one leaves a LOT of variables in play for the "user" to mess up.
The studs have to be heat cycled. After that, they may loosen up some, that's why I suggest a retorque.
starscream5000 said:
ive never had to retorque studs and i know many others who havent either...if they are stretch sequenced properly when putting them on they shouldnt back out due to heat. thats another reason the studs are better.
the bolts on the other hand...yeah im sure you know lol.
*of course going in and checking the studs isnt a BAD idea...i just dont find it necessary...in fact i dont believe ARP says to do that on the studs instructions while i do believe it IS on the bolt instructions. :dunno:
How do you measure stretch on a Head Stud??
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=465936&postcount=9
Edit:: This is also why I would take a used, heat cycled set of ARP head studs that are mechanically and physically in great condition over a brand new set any day.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=465936&postcount=9
Edit:: This is also why I would take a used, heat cycled set of ARP head studs that are mechanically and physically in great condition over a brand new set any day
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starscream5000 said:
sorry i meant torque sequenced (dont know why i said stretch)...however that point of how do you measure stretch on a stud is exactly right.....which is why is torqued down properly you shouldnt have to go back in. with the bolts even when sequenced down after heat cycles the stretching that may occur will be more evident and will require the retorque.
i can tell you ive installed probably over 50 mhgs with studs and have never retorqued a single one...and never had any problems with them at varying levels of boost etc....
the arp bolts ive seen have had to be retorqued.
It may not be a requirement, but it sure does give the person driving the car that extra piece of mind. It never hurts to triple check your work. Any bolt/stud can loosen up if they havn't been heat cycle before installation, like I said, just piece of mind that I would follow
starscream5000 said:It may not be a requirement, but it sure does give the person driving the car that extra piece of mind. It never hurts to triple check your work. Any bolt/stud can loosen up if they havn't been heat cycle before installation, like I said, just piece of mind that I would follow
THAT i can agree with. like i said.....it isnt a BAD thing to do
now....whered that horse go....heh
I'm still hammering it . And it wasn't actually a horse, it turned out to be a donkey in discuise (thus that's why it didn't want to be lead to the water).
. And it wasn't actually a horse, it turned out to be a donkey in discuise (thus that's why it didn't want to be lead to the water).
starscream5000 said:
Lots of warm ups and drives since i got the motor in. Ive gone up to 16psi recently and ive pushed it hard a handful of times. Safe to retorque? I have studs not bolts.
I still suggest doing it, but It's your choice. There's nothing wrong with retorquing, just don't exceed the recommended specs . Let us know if they did indeed loosen up some if you do it.
. Let us know if they did indeed loosen up some if you do it.
The shop i sent the motor to did the torquing. I told them 88ft/lbs. ill let you know if they are less. Thanks again