HKS BOV causing car to die

illmatic-Supra

'89 MKIII Turbo - 65k
Jul 24, 2007
17
0
0
Anaheim, California
OK, Im gonna try to explain this as best as i can-

When im driving my car and i drive normal (shifting before 3000 RPMs) it runs smoothly- but if i gas it any harder than that, once I release the gas and go into neutral, the RPM needle drops to about 700 RPMs, back to 1000, then 90% of the time, will drop all the way down, shutting off the car-

i was told this may be an issue with too much air being released from the BOV, but im not sure- im stumped

Anyone have this problem or know how to fix it?:1zhelp:

(I hope that made sence)
 

illmatic-Supra

'89 MKIII Turbo - 65k
Jul 24, 2007
17
0
0
Anaheim, California
Big Wang Bandit said:
It isn't recirculated, that will fix 100% of your problems, Get the recirculation fitting for your release valve and voila, no more stumbling.

So i need to run a hose from the BOV back to the intercooler pipe? :icon_ques

I have the recirculating fitting it came with but where do I run the hose to?
 

Wills7MGTE

( . )( . )'s RULE!!!!
May 12, 2006
1,077
0
0
38
Jackson, MO
www.myspace.com
you have to buy a recirculation fitting for the BOV tip where the air exits the BOV from, run it back into the intake accordian hose. Otherwise it'll die, I dont do this on mine because I have an auto so it doesn't die, I WIN!
 

suprasnd

New Member
Jul 14, 2007
26
0
0
54
Flinton, PA
illmatic-Supra said:
OK, Im gonna try to explain this as best as i can-

When im driving my car and i drive normal (shifting before 3000 RPMs) it runs smoothly- but if i gas it any harder than that, once I release the gas and go into neutral, the RPM needle drops to about 700 RPMs, back to 1000, then 90% of the time, will drop all the way down, shutting off the car-

i was told this may be an issue with too much air being released from the BOV, but im not sure- im stumped

Anyone have this problem or know how to fix it?:1zhelp:

(I hope that made sence)

I've been running a HKS bov and never had a problem yet. Not sure Y some do
and some don't. I do sometime get a pop in the exhaust from the extra fuel being fed into car during purge of the BOV. My friend has a HKS BOV on his WRX and he's never had a problem like yours either. Not a recirc either. We both vent to the atmosphere. He sometimes gets a pop in the exhaust also. Nothing big for both of us. Good luck dude.

Keith
 

suprajjang

Supra Enthusiast
Mar 30, 2005
430
0
0
VA
when you come to a stop keep the car in gear and it wont die. My car will still die if i go from a gear and put it into neutral and i have the hks ssq bov as well so try that out and let me know
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
43
Fort Worth, TX
that could cause compressor surge...

recirculate it as it performs better that way...

I have mine recirculated, though it doesn't scare people like it would with it vented, it doesn't matter when I fly by them...
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
A quick search on this would bring up many threads about how you need to send the air you "blow off" back into the accordian hose, just prior to the turbo inlet...

Or your "blown off" air is leaked out, and no longer metered, and your engine control computer now thinks there is more air in the motor than there is, adds more fuel, and you get a big old back fire...

And your car runs like shit.

Do you really want your car to run like shit so you can sound cool?

That really is the question. :)

If you go speed density, you can just vent your blowoff. (Stand alone, Maft Pro or other type that converts your engine to a speed density based ECU.)

Here is the reality. Your throwing away high pressure air. Air you "paid" to compress, and now your throwing it away.... Why not have it blow back at your turbo, helping to keep it spooled up during your shift, and allow the TCCS to work properly? :)

I have two BOV's, and they work great, but they are vented back at the turbo, where they can use that compressed air as much as possible.. :)
p779869_1.jpg
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
I'm going speed density, and I'm still sending any bypassed air to the turbo inlet. :)

Why not take advantage of the air you've compressed v/s just throwing it away?

Same basic setup as the photo, only the turbo is a T-70 now, and the intake has no AFM, is 4" ID, and has a few other mods to improve how the engine runs. (Like a catch can, and putting a vac source on the valve covers again.)
 

Mr. Y

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
363
0
0
40
80 miles away from Kremlin
to Adjuster: Do two bosches handle T70 well? Haven't you compressor surge at low boost levels? How much psi are you running? Are you sure they do not leak after 20psi?

PS: I'm going the similar way, but have been told, that bosch has too soft spring and leaks after 20psi.
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
Actually, I have not completed my T70 change yet. (Still wiring up and Maft Pro)

On my 60-1 bolt on T-4, which dyno'd at 420rwhp at 18psi, and I was running around at 21psi all the time, and often to 25psi with 30% Toulene in the fuel, the Bosch valves worked fine.

Granted, the T70 will be flowing more air at lower pressures, and I'm not using a surge resistant housing, but the Bosch valves are designed to be open, or leak whenever there is a vacume in the intake manifold.

The ones that I have seen "leak" complaints about are always installed backwards. Jeff from the old Suprasport had photos of one installed backwards too, so that did not help.

They have to be setup so the port of the "underside" of the valve, directly opposite the vac nipple goes to your turbo intake.

The port off the side of the valve, goes to your upper Intercooler pipe that is connected to the throttle body.

The valve is designed so under pressure, it is held closed. The more pressure you add, the tighter it's held closed. When you snap the throttle closed, the intake goes immediately to vacume, and that pulls the valve open, bypassing compressed air back into your turbo. At higher pressures, it makes quite a whoosh noise, very little flutter. Just crusing around town, I did notice some flutter (opening and closing of the valve quickly) if I shifted at low boost in a relaxed driving style. No compressor surge however.

Another benefit of this setup is the shortcut to the throttle body off boost. When you first open the throttle, the turbo is not spinning very fast, and during this "lag" time, any air going into the engine has to go all the way from the filter, through the turbo, the IC pipes and FMIC and then into the motor. This long path adds to the lag time. The Bosch type valve is open under this condition, and since it goes straight from the intake filter area, to near the throttle body, it is a short cut, and improves throttle response at low engine speeds. (And that is why I use two of them :) ) More flow at boost, and it improved my low speed throttle response, so no need for a FFIM in my opinion. (Other than to clean up the engine bay, and keep the intake air away from the hot exhaust/turbo, but not so much to improve throttle response...)

One last thing. For many years, I used the Lexus/550 setup, and on any metered air system, if you do not recirc the air measured, it makes the car run poorly. Especially when you shift and "blow off" it goes way rich, and backfires. I do not need that kind of attention from the cops. :)

Good luck :)
 

Mr. Y

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
363
0
0
40
80 miles away from Kremlin
Adjuster, thanks a lot!
One more little question: what do you think about running Bosch without recirculating it back to pre-turbo intake? I'm going FFIM, so recirculating back to accordion hose will be trouble... So, I'm going to put breezer (small air filter) to one port and connect another to pre-TB intake pipe... Should it work?

PS: MAP-based standalone here.
 

supramad77

supramad
Feb 5, 2006
331
2
18
Dartmouth, Devon, UK
Interesting read this. I am running the lexus/rimer set up on mine venting to atmoshere and it runs like shit. Poor/ lumpy idle and trying to stall sometimes (auto car). Sounds like i need to recic mine. Any decent aftermarket ones available.