high powered NA!

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Tanya said:
How about underrating? Which is something that Ford is apparently good at. While the books say the engine is 95hp at the crank, how many people dyno'd their stock engines and saw (lets say 18% drivetrain loss) 77whp?

I'm not being a dick, I really want to know b/c I'm fascinated as to how removing emissions could possibly increase horsepower from 95hp to 160, unless the emissions equipped vehicle was slightly underrated from the begining. I'd be more apt to believe the US version is really around 130 crank hp, but underrated to 95 for whatever insane Ford reason. I removed my emissions crap and didn't gain jackshit from it, maybe 1 or 2hp at best.

As I previously stated, there's a 240whp 6MGE running around in AUS (race car)... I wish I could find the link to where I read that, but I can't :(
So no, it's not impossible at all. BMW, however, has a different technology. The Toyota M series engine is quite old actually, while BMWs inline 6s are pretty new (AFAIK) so it's almost apples and oranges.

Well, those 95/160bhp figures are indeed crank, and with that particular engine - the cylinder heads differed in the 2.8 model between the US and UK - the US had a 3 port exhaust manifold, the UK had a kind of siamesed 2-port setup but the head flowed better. Then there were different cams. I think this probably came about because the 2.8 in the US was considered an Economy engine for cars, or as a utility engine for trucks & stuff, but in the UK, it was Ford's top of the line engine for cars, so was tuned accordingly. Granada's, Sierra's etc all used it in the 'everything but the kitchen sink' options models. Also - we used a Bosch K-Jetronic MFI setup on the 2.8's, and the 2.9's had the Bosch L-Jetronic EFI w/AFM's. Cosworth even took the 2.9, changed it from 12v OHV to 24v QOHC and upped the bhp to about 195 iirc, and are easily modded for more.

The other thing that could possibly make the difference when emissions shite is removed, is that here, plenty of engines were designed and built before Catalytic converters even came into existence here (like the Ford CVH engine), so adding a restrictive emissions system effectively cripplied them, manufacturers tune them to be as good as they can get under the emissions shit, and then when someone comes along and removes it - wow, instant performance. Hell, even upto 2001, the Ford Ka was using the 1297cc OHV Kent engine that was old even in the 1970's, producing 54bhp, down from the original 1967 spec of 63bhp, mainly due to the emissions BS :)

More modern engines, such as the 1JZ and 2JZ that are designed with the emissions system and accompanying backpressure in mind probably wont find any benefits to removing the emissions crap, and i know that at least a few engines actually *need* the backpressure to run correctly (Rover K-Series for one....)

As for the BMW 6-cylinder engines - well, yes, the new ones are different, but the 1970's and 1980's M30 series, in 1976, the 3.0 I6 was producing 180bhp in 12v SOHC form and 9.0:1 compression ratio. Think what the 7M engine would be capable of with the advantage of 24v DOHC and higher compression ratio - already at 200bhp - so more can no way be impossible.
 

AGlobalThreat

Acceleration
Apr 4, 2005
991
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Santa Clarita
If you guys want to really wake up your NA:

Nice cold air intake (Good filter with solid pipe routed to the bumper, foglight, just out of the engine bay)
Get a header, modified 2.5 or 3 inch straight pipe
Don't run a cat
3" straight exhaust
Lightweight rotational mass (Lightweight wheels, lightweight flywheel, 1 pc lightweight driveshaft, clutch also)
Advance ignition timing to 12 or 14 degrees
180 degree thermostat for better cooling, optimal for power
Electric fan
Increase compression
Port and polish
Fuel tuning (SAFC, or something like it)
Cam gear tuning
And obviously you can go internal if you want serious power, cams, oversized valves, and just better hardware.

But you see, the problem with all of this, is that ALL of that will probably net you NEAR 250 rwhp, if that, running perfect, at sea level. Basic mods will really wake this engine up (3" exhaust, 2.5" header, efan, 180 degree tsat, 14 degree timing, CAI, and a tune) and it will feel like a different car. I know, because I did all that crap. That's why this thread is so funny to me because you guys act like I don't know what I'm talking about, when I've actually been MUCH farther into my NA than most of you probably will ever be. But what made my NA so fun to drive, was that the car weighed 2980 lbs, and I'm a mere 140 lbs. With my modded 7mge's powerband, it made the car quite fun.

Believe me I don't hate the 7mge, I got rodknock doing a 150 run and was far from stock. You guys just gotta realize that if you are going to want more power and want to be faster, it's going to take more than that engine, or its going to take some serious cash and modding. I was waiting to blow the GE before I upgraded, and well, now I'm going with a heavily modded, reliable, fast spooling, 1jz, in the same chasis (2980 lbs), with the same gearing (4.30 LSD) as before.

And with that note, I'm going on vacation, I'll be back in a week. See ya! :D
 

mkiiSupraMan18

Needs a new username...
Apr 1, 2005
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240 hp 6mge?! How'd they get my #'s out already? :icon_conf

I still think NA sucks because for what you would pay do do an entire turbo swap you'll only get like.... 20hp or something like that. It seems like the going rate is $200/hp :icon_conf

Had I not been hell bent keeping my engine bay super clean I would have gone 7mgte in my 82. I'm over the "I'm too proud to go turbo" phase. Throwing the kind of money I've thrown away on my 82 is just stupid. Hell, 160hp before mods and after dropping about $1500 into the pile I'm PRAYING to hit 200 hp.

I only read the first 3 pages, and I'm sure all the rest said exactly what I said.
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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Turbo nutswingers need not apply :biglaugh:

Matt, I'm sure you'll hit 200whp at some point. Remember what it felt like when I told you to bump your timing? The more you let that thing breathe, the better off it'll be.
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Actually, was going to ask about timing - whats the timing set at for a stock 7M-GE and what can you increase it to for better performance? Whats the fuel consumption like afterwards? Horrendous, or only a small decrease?
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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I don't know about the 7MGE, but my timing is set at 15BTDC on my 5MGE (which is a bit much, but due to some electrical issues I can't tune it to an exact degree)

Stock timing for the 5M is 10BTDC so 13-14 is about perfect. My gas mileage increased from 18mpg to 20mpg and the feel in pickup (throttle response) was noticeable.

I would gather not everyones outcome will be the same. If your engine is high mileage, with staggered compression, I doubt advancing the timimg will do anything for you.

also, from what I heard the factory setting is a "standard" setting and is not actually "optimal" for performance and mileage, but I really don't know if that's true or not. The seat-o-the-pants meter says it's true though.
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Interesting. I'll get eddie to do the timing on it. If i can find out how to do it, that is :D

Possibly the timing they put out is to adhere to emissions regs or something. I know that in '88, my N/A was running on LEADED 97 octane, says in the manual to use Leaded, and Unleaded 98 as a fallback, which i have to use anyway, seeing as Leaded and LRP was phased out in 2000 to 2002

Dunno if i'd count my Supra as high mileage - cause over the last 18 years, its only just hit 165,000 on the clock (miles) and its had an HKS headgasket done on it before it succumbed to a BHG according to the wad of reciepts and bills i've got from Toyota & other garages.

Best way i know to get performance out of an engine other than timing - is to raise the compression. 9.8:1 would be a nice figure :)
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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Kai said:
Possibly the timing they put out is to adhere to emissions regs or something. I know that in '88, my N/A was running on LEADED 97 octane, says in the manual to use Leaded, and Unleaded 98 as a fallback, which i have to use anyway, seeing as Leaded and LRP was phased out in 2000 to 2002

Best way i know to get performance out of an engine other than timing - is to raise the compression. 9.8:1 would be a nice figure :)


Well advancing the timing can lead to spark knock if you're not running a good enough octane... I have so far been running w/o knock on normal unleaded 87, but it would be suggested that on hotter days to run a higher octane.

I wish I could easily find leaded gas here at the pumps, cause I'd probably use that as I don't have any emissions to clog up (nor a working O2 sensor)

getting performance out of n/a is about letting the engine breathe too... you're not going to be very effective with having advanced timing and 9.8:1 compression if you don't have an exhaust or intake to let the engine breath well.

of course, oversize valves, bored out TB would help breathing abilities as well. I myself, am planning on finding/making a 75mm TB to work on my baby. also have to find a spare intake plenum to hack up to make it work. As the RC intake I'm using is 3"/76mm it would eliminate the TB as being a bottleneck, and then after that all I have to do is elminate the AFM and there's max intake flow.


here's an incomplete list of what I have done and plan to do:
intake (done)
exhaust (done)
timing (done)
removed emissions (done)
over size TB
oversize valves + 5 angle valve job I think
ported and port matched intake
10.5:1 pistons
bored 0.020
HKS cam clones
remove AFM, run standalone?

That's about all I can think of right now
 

Wills7MGTE

( . )( . )'s RULE!!!!
May 12, 2006
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I know I'm not an NA but on my turbo supra, POS NA Eclipse, and my 96 Blazer I sold a while back I used 93 octane pump on all of them they just seemed to run better and its only a 20 cent difference most times, I wish I could get 100 octane pump but sunoco won't move here.
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Yeah leaded fuel was so much more fun :(

With regards to the compression/breathing - course thats not a problem for me - no catalytic converter at all, 2.5" Exhaust system and a K&N 57i up front ;)

Whats the max valve size for the 7M heads? See, i'm used to working with Ford engines (learning Toyota in leaps and bounds, but i keep falling back to Fords as a reference!), and for ideal flow in all the engines i've worked on, you want the valve to open no more than 25% of the valve diameter. So, if you had a 30mm valve, you want the lift to be no more than 7.5mm. As for valve cut, i prefer three angle cuts again, for flow reasons.

Oversized throttle body i can leave to Eddie - he's got all the gear to deal with it and he's the sort of person that could fabricate a newer TB from scratch.

On yours, theres no reason to stay with the stock Toyota ECU either - pick up a Megasquirt or an MBE Powercontrol 941 ECU, hook that up and use a MAP sensor instead of an AFM.

I'd love to find a new set of pistons for mine - but cant find any dealers for Wiseco, JE or anyone. Best i can do is OEM Toyota :/

Cams? Burton Power can handle that. I tell them what i want, and they'll make them up for about £1500. Sure its more expensive, but you get what you want ;)
 

Allan_MA70

Banned
May 1, 2005
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Melbourne, Australia
Tanya said:
here's an incomplete list of what I have done and plan to do:
intake (done)
exhaust (done)
timing (done)
removed emissions (done)
over size TB
oversize valves + 5 angle valve job I think
ported and port matched intake
10.5:1 pistons
bored 0.020
HKS cam clones
remove AFM, run standalone?

That's about all I can think of right now

Ditching the AFM was the best thing i ever did on my 5m-e.. ate most 5m-ge's and a few 6m-ge's with one less cam :)

For best bang for $ mods ditch the AFM and get a 7m/6m crank and rods (beefy 7m rods FTW) this will give you 10.2:1 from memory with the high comp stock 5m-ge pistons and 200cc more displacement (you may have to smooth a few bits inside the block to get the rods to clear)

i would not bother with the bigger TB save up get ITB's (gutted sidedraft webbers will do)
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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Allan_MA70 said:
For best bang for $ mods ditch the AFM and get a 7m/6m crank and rods (beefy 7m rods FTW) this will give you 10.2:1 from memory with the high comp stock 5m-ge pistons and 200cc more displacement (you may have to smooth a few bits inside the block to get the rods to clear)

No sir, I plan to do it the hard way :naughty:
I'm trying to get the highest hp n/a 5MGE, not 6MGE so stroking isn't an option. I may run ITBs or carbs (a manifold might be in production soon) somewhere down the line, but I'm going to try the TB 1st and see where that leads me.
 

Allan_MA70

Banned
May 1, 2005
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Melbourne, Australia
ok welcome to point of deminishing returns, custom pistons and rods are going to set you back the cost of doing the entire 6m crank thing twice!

You can spray a turd chrome and call it bling! but its still a turd!

theres no award or anything special about a high output 5m crank'ed engine over a 6m cranked one! and no-one will know!
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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Naples, FL
Allan_MA70 said:
ok welcome to point of deminishing returns, custom pistons and rods are going to set you back the cost of doing the entire 6m crank thing twice!

You can spray a turd chrome and call it bling! but its still a turd!

theres no award or anything special about a high output 5m crank'ed engine over a 6m cranked one! and no-one will know!


Booo, I will know, so hush you. This is my turd to shine up as I see fit :biglaugh:

Don't see why I'll need rods, I'm quite sure the stock rods can handle a measly 200-250 crank hp.