High lift camshaft

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
You would need to measure what's in there now and then add/subtract whatever lash you desire then look at the chart I posted and order the correct bucket for each hole.

Yes in a used 7m head they're a 100% drop in, in a new head they tend to be a little tight.
 

madsupra88

BoOoOoST
Sep 17, 2005
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ok i was on the phone with web camshafts and they can make a set for with the .400 lift they could go more but im going to run into some clearance problems, they could also reduce some of the base circle to avoid clearance problems. the set is going to run me about $750 and the duration is going to be in the 220s ... what do you guys think ??
 

suprarich

Guest
Nov 9, 2005
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Ian - I use a small make up shim made on the lathe under the stock lifter on a reduced base circle cam. Only a few grams each.

Mad - The problem with a high lift cam is the chance of kicking a shim out on the stock lifters. This is why we go to a shimless lifter for an aggressive cam. It is not too hard to make a large lift cam swing in the head. Just some grinding. Of course, it has to be done with the head off the car. I always made my own shimless lifters on the lathe, then put the lash adjusting waffer shim under it.

Slow66 has some good pics of a head that he ground to clear his big cams.
 

gofastgeorge

Banned
Jan 24, 2008
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TRD used to sell 11mm lift cams.
They require the head to be cut by the follower bores to clear the lobes.
There was a set on eBay about a year ago.
I'll have to dig back to see if I saved the link.
 

buldozr

New Member
Jan 9, 2007
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while looking at your flow numbers, anything past .400 lift is not too much more beneficial, you mentioned you have 1.5mm oversized valves in now, OEM 2j valve by anychance? If so the 2j valve is just a hair taller(unless you shaved them down), just factor that in when buying your lifters/shims.
 

need new tires

rubber slinger
Nov 10, 2005
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Dayton,Ohio
gofastgeorge;897233 said:
TRD used to sell 11mm lift cams.
They require the head to be cut by the follower bores to clear the lobes.
There was a set on eBay about a year ago.
I'll have to dig back to see if I saved the link.

a local guy is going to be running them, they are stupid big.looking at them next to stock is just insane, even 264 are just ... less than manly next to those. i am near positive they with hit the pistion unless you fly cut the pistions.

kinda of off topic, what cams would be best for 750rwhp(dyno, 550ish street) in a forged motor, built head (p&p, 1mm over valves, BB springs), t72, 4" exhaust , 8.0:1 CR? and have a sane idle(900 rpm) 5pd now but will be and auto
 

DEFIANT 7M

101MM stroke of INSANITY!
Mar 30, 2005
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Nashville/Miami
IJ.;897399 said:
1SZ-FE 1000cc Echo are exactly what I used and are nominal 28mm same as 7M buckets.

Part numbers were posted a few pages back.

Two different Echo engines...?? The bucket in my hand in the pic is 32mm. Same principal:icon_bigg
 

DEFIANT 7M

101MM stroke of INSANITY!
Mar 30, 2005
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Nashville/Miami
IJ.;897408 said:
Allan: Yep I think the 1.1L and up motors upgraded to the 32mm buckets same as a JZ.

32mm is much nicer gives the springs a chance to disperse heat at high rpm.

Yea comes at a price..it was a pain boring my head:biglaugh:
 

madsupra88

BoOoOoST
Sep 17, 2005
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just to have an idea, i forum member runs a 9.5 mm lift with no clearance problem, how much i would have to take out of the base circle to make up the extra .5 mm of lift so i dont run into a clearnce problem . in other words have the same clearance as a 9.5 would have with a stock base circle VS a smaller base circle cam with 10 mm lift....thanks
 

bowsercake

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Aug 24, 2005
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What is the problem with grinding away the head? I believe it was Slow66 who had a little pictorial on what he did. Just grind away at the head where it hits and then smooth it down. I can try to find those pictures tomorrow if you cant. I don't think there were in his build thread, it was a separate thread, maybe on SF. Not specific, I know, sorry man.
 

madsupra88

BoOoOoST
Sep 17, 2005
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bowsercake;900995 said:
What is the problem with grinding away the head? I believe it was Slow66 who had a little pictorial on what he did. Just grind away at the head where it hits and then smooth it down. I can try to find those pictures tomorrow if you cant. I don't think there were in his build thread, it was a separate thread, maybe on SF. Not specific, I know, sorry man.


i know but what sucks is th head is all done, if i grind on it i would have to take it all back apart , hot tank it , put new seals and the whole pain in the A$$ job ... lol