High Egts after running perfect for 4 months

[lintlars]

back ground info: Car was running great 11s on the wideband under WOT 16 PSI (60 trim)
EGTs under WOT in all gears never got past 1450 and I had it running on the rich side where it would go down under WOT and hold steady at 1400
timing set at 8 deg diagnostic block jumpered
fuel pressure set at 37 psi
idles at 14.7
I was running like this for the past 4 months no issues car ran perfect and very quick
EGT probe was new aprox 4000kms ago

I recently got code 52 (knock sensor) at start up no codes a few minutes of driving code would show up
during this time I got high EGTs Under WOT
Fuel consumption increases noticably
so I had two sensors kicking around and replaced them code gone but all the same symptoms remain
reset the ECU and went for a test, same problem EGTs all the way past 1400 and very quick, even when I let off the gas EGTs climb sometimes where they should be falling when you let off the gas very odd
under cruising conditions pulling up a hill at 105 km just starting to boost EGTs would climb to 1500 and would keep going if I dont let off
under a low boost setting my boost is VERY lazy sometimes it cant get past 5 psi which makes me think timing issues
everyday driving (no boost) under 80km/h everything seems fine no issues


Ok Heres some back ground and build info
89 GTE fully built engine je/cometic
lex/550s
Rebic LC fuel controller
ct 26 60 trim
AFPR set at 37 PSI maxes out at 60psi under WOT
12v fuel mod

Now why are my ETGs still climbing so high and so quick? timing?
should I do the knock sensor rewire even though the code is gone? That was my original plan but decied to swap sensors first
I have a new EGT probe Im going to try tomorrow

Ive tried to make this as clear as possible for everyone to read let me know if Im leaving anything out.
Thanks

 

[thevork]

Did you check your timing yet ?
It's important to do that first.

If you think you have a timing drifting problem first check your battery. A friend of mine has had thesame problem, and a few dead cells in his battery caused the problem.

 

[isnms]

Clogged cat?
wWat do you have your rebic dial set to?

 

[gofastgeorge]

Air leak somewhere ahead of the turbo ?
Lexus AFM starting to go bad ?

 

[lintlars]

Did you check your timing yet ?
It's important to do that first.

If you think you have a timing drifting problem first check your battery. A friend of mine has had thesame problem, and a few dead cells in his battery caused the problem.

Timing was where it always was nothings changed there

Clogged cat?
wWat do you have your rebic dial set to?

No cat 3"turbo back as far as the rebic its about 1/3rd on the dial after many runs this is where I got the best AFRs/and EGTs Im also going to try and dissconnect the rebic

Air leak somewhere ahead of the turbo ?
Lexus AFM starting to go bad ?

Thats what I thought Im going to check for holes in all the couplers and will try another AFM today.

 

[lintlars]

No leaks in the charge pipes/couplers
accordian hose no leaks
swapped AFM sensors no change
removed rebic no change

made some new knock sensor wires up will install tomorrow

 

[shaeff]

Do you have a wideband hooked up currently? What are your AFRs? Leaking injector, causing a lean condition, thus causing the spike in EGTs, maybe?

Edit: Also, with the KS code (assuming some part of the system is non-functional, which appears to be the case), you should be running rich.

 

[lintlars]

Do you have a wideband hooked up currently? What are your AFRs? Leaking injector, causing a lean condition, thus causing the spike in EGTs, maybe?

Edit: Also, with the KS code (assuming some part of the system is non-functional, which appears to be the case), you should be running rich.

Wideband has been hooked up throughout the past 4 months
calibrated a month ago
AFRs 11s under boost 14.7 at idle
leaking injector? as in fuel or o-ring leaking?
Injectors are RC 550s flow tested 4000km

one weird symptom is when at cruising speeds 90-100km when I let off the gas the EGTs jump from 1300-1350 they always used to drop not jump up then drop
Fuel consumption has gone up a tank used to last me two weeks now it only lasts me a week.
No codes after changing the Knock sensors I have a new KS wires made up just have to make some time to install maybe Friday

The only thing I can think of is timing the car runs perfect except for when I go into boost then the EGTs climb Ive gone through two tanks of fuel since this started so I can rule out poor fuel I always run a bottle of octane boost in every tank as well.
Next Im going to pull the plugs as well and inspect them to see how the individual cylinders are running

 

[shaeff]

I was asking if the injector was leaking fuel, thus causing a lean condition...

 

[dumbo]

I was asking if the injector was leaking fuel, thus causing a lean condition...

Wouldn't that cause a rich condition?? Unless it was leaking externally,but I'm sure that would be smelled.

Do you blow any smoke?

That fact that your going through more fuel is clearly indicating a problem of over fueling. Although you'd think that your EGT's would go down. I would be certain your KS's are in order, codes are gone.

Air filter clean? haha.

 

[90T04]

Really sounds like timing not advancing enough, or maybe getting pulled for some reason.

Have you tested the water temp sensor?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=113

 

[lintlars]

I was asking if the injector was leaking fuel, thus causing a lean condition...

Internal leaks would cause it to run rich no external leaks

Wouldn't that cause a rich condition?? Unless it was leaking externally,but I'm sure that would be smelled.

Do you blow any smoke?

That fact that your going through more fuel is clearly indicating a problem of over fueling. Although you'd think that your EGT's would go down. I would be certain your KS's are in order, codes are gone.

Air filter clean? haha.

No smoke I was speaking to a coworker and thats what he asked I removed it and checked it I could see light through it (k&n) cleaned 4000 km ago

Really sounds like timing not advancing enough, or maybe getting pulled for some reason.

Have you tested the water temp sensor?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=113

Never even thought of this Ill check it out tomorrow Thanks

 

[lintlars]

Really sounds like timing not advancing enough, or maybe getting pulled for some reason.

Have you tested the water temp sensor?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=113

Replaced with a known good sensor no change
cleaned the air filter no change
Only thing left to do is the knock sensor rewire even though the code is gone Ive seen stranger from these fuckin cars arrgh and I have two Ima sucker for punishment I guess

 

[lintlars]

Rewired no change
plugs were black with a bit of tan will change them out tonight
One more item Im going to check is the fuel filter I have a spare kicking around even though my pressures look good Imout of ideas!

 

[shaeff]

Internal leaks would cause it to run rich no external leaks

Not if the injector isn't operating properly, (injecting enough)- that would cause a lean condition.

Injector going bad usually = lean = high EGT's. Especially if it's only leaking, as that's not enough fuel.

Then again, you'd likely fry a piston if that were the case...

 

[lintlars]

Not if the injector isn't operating properly, (injecting enough)- that would cause a lean condition.

Injector going bad usually = lean = high EGT's. Especially if it's only leaking, as that's not enough fuel.

Then again, you'd likely fry a piston if that were the case...

Ya all plugs had the same color

 

[thevork]

So did you check the battery yet? it's a simple test (replace it with a known good one) and as said, a friend of mine had weird drifts in timing due to a few bad cells. Car fired up and idled ok but driving it was a hell. He also replaced most of the electronics,plugs and injectors and in the end the battery was bad. a 50$ fix .

 

[lintlars]

So did you check the battery yet? it's a simple test (replace it with a known good one) and as said, a friend of mine had weird drifts in timing due to a few bad cells. Car fired up and idled ok but driving it was a hell. He also replaced most of the electronics,plugs and injectors and in the end the battery was bad. a 50$ fix .

Ill give it a shot but I just found a code I did not have when this mess started.
41 replaced with a working TPS code is still there gonna have to trace this new issue down I wanted to fix this before I parked her for the winter but winter is here in these parts -13 and 4" of snow

 

[thevork]

Error codes are good. Nothing worse than an electrical problem without it throwing a code. Good luck fixing it in that cold

 

[lintlars]

Ok re did some wiring for the TPS extension from the FFIM install no change (had to be done anyways)
Found I was not getting full voltage from the ECU to TPS
did a few more tests swapped ECUs code 41 gone now Ive got code 51 still
The odd thing is when I let the car idle the code goes away as soon as I rev it up code 51 returns any ideas?
Looked in the TSRM and there are a few things that can cause this I deleted my AC would this cause this?
there are 3 AC related problems that will trigger code 51
there are 2 TPS related that would cause this as well
anyone else get this code when removing your AC?