High compression high RPM 7M-GE build

[andrew_mx83]

wow long time no update, not too much work on the engine although i have gotten a couple of hours work done on the head (valve clearances half done now) and bought a few new toys for it. still snowed under with work plus my daily drive got written off a couple of days before christmas, so im back to driving the car this motor is being built for. Only catch is i had to throw a junk motor in it to get me around and it is a total POS, uses more oil than fuel (almost!) and has the death rattle over 3200rpm. It has thrown a constant stream of small issues at me so i seem to spend far more time repairing it that id like to!
However i now have a big ass radiator and big ass fans in there ready for the new motor...

hopefully this bad boy turns up soon


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[SeeUSmile]

looking good!!! any updates andrew?

 

[andrew_mx83]

Nil progress unfortunately
I bought a new daily as the cressida as giving me the shits with needing to be fixed all the time.
I'm actually hoping to get the motor finished off soon, once I get on top of work again. I got the fancy oil pan and I made a revision 2 of the oil pump outlet so the bottom end can get sealed up, then got a few jobs in the head before the long motor is complete (I think)

 

[SeeUSmile]

Ancient thread bump? any updates andrew?

 

[A70BoosTFienD]

Interested as well. What a wealth of knowledge buried here. hope you made some progress!!

 

[andrew_mx83]

Necro bump!!!
Well there has been some progress lately, quite a bit actually!!
The engine is nearly together, I should have the long motor completed this week or next.
I've just finished reassembling the cylinder head and a new HG arrived recently.
Due to a change of direction I replaced the 280 degree cams with a 268 degree profile, went with 2jz exhaust valves and got a 2mm HG which drops the compression back to 12.4:1
Reason for the slight de-tune is to make it a bit more friendly to drive down low, a bit less stressed/more reliable and able to run on pump fuel.
Why?? So I can put it in a truck and go offroading!!!
Bought an LN65 and am most of the way through the conversion already, hopefully won't be long til it runs now!!
It's quite a squeeze getting a straight 6 in the engine bay but it just fits!!

I can post up more pics/progress on the build if anyone wants, not sure if there's much interest in old trucks around here though.

 

[xCxHxRxIxSx]

I'd be interested in seeing the build, I've toyed with the idea of dropping a 7m into a 4runner or something someday.

Is the truck 4wd?

 

[andrew_mx83]

No worries I'll post up some more pics when I get a chance. It's not a bolt in conversion but not impossible either. Biggest issue is room for radiator and fans.

She's definitely 4wd and staying that way. I plan to do lots of tracks and touring around outback oz in this thing. I just finished putting together a r150f transmission for it this week with a heap of mods and upgrades

 

[andrew_mx83]

Sorry guys, im pretty hopeless at replying to forums these days

Here's a quick pic dump of where the motor is at these days, i had to take a few of the shiny billet parts off to keep things simple for registration purposes but it's now finished and got installed in the truck last night.

Both water and PS pumps are now electric to free up room at the front of motor for radiator and fans.

 

[andrew_mx83]

Standard inlet manifold got the cut'n'shut so i can both keep the ACIS and not have the intake crossing over the motor, it also keeps the airbox on the cold side of the engine bay where there is a bit more room for activities.

Final specs:
12.4:1 compression ratio
268 degree cams
8500rpm redline
Block decked then torque plated bored and honed
Custom 84mm forged flat top pistons by Carrillo with oversize valve reliefs. Teflon coated skirts, ceramic coated crowns
1/4" wall tool steel wrist pins
Eagle rods
7m full counterweight crank ground and polished
Fully balanced and blueprinted
ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts, flywheel bolts, head stud insert washers
Higher volume turbo oil pump, shimmed relief valve, ported outlet and custom pickup
Custom bulkhead fitting from oil pump outlet directly out of sump
AN-12 oil lines everywhere, twin filters, 50mm thick oil cooler
Needle bearing oil pump shaft retention plate on the front and ball bearing on the rear
Winged, baffled and trap door'd sump
Cometic head gasket
Head heavily CNC ported
Oversized valves
Heavy duty valve springs
Various coolant mods in head
ARP inserts to stop crush around the head studs
Adjustable cam gears
Turbo CPS rebuilt and modified to 24-1 trigger
Mechanical water and power steering pumps deleted and alternator relocated
Billet fitting for head water outlet/thermostat housing
Hurricane headers into 2.5" exhaust
Probably a heap of other things ive forgotten!!!

 

[andrew_mx83]

Transmission is a modified and rebuilt R150f with 7m-gte bellhousing. NA clutch and fly with a concentric slave.
New Toyota genuine bearings, seals and syncros throughout. Marlin Crawler thrust washer, bearing retainer, shift fork and shifter bushes/seats. Longer input shaft and taller 5th gear from a Dyna truck gearbox. This drops the final drive from 0.83 to 0.69 bringing the 100km/h down to 2200rpm on 31s with my 4.88 diffs while still giving nice low gearing in the other 4.

A rather expensive pile of parts:

A rather daunting pile of parts:

Starting to come together with the help of a BFH

Into the intermediate plate they go

Shiny new 5th gear

Shifter gizmos installed

All buttoned up with cases

Last thing to do was setup the concentric slave cylinder spacers and lines etc

Quick peek up its skirt, new heavy duty clutch was balanced with the flywheel

And just a quick vid of all the gears turning and f*cking with my eyes!!
[video=youtube;Zm5qPYzXG4w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm5qPYzXG4w[/video]

 

[andrew_mx83]

Made up some new engine mount brackets to get the motor sitting where i wanted it. They are designed to take the standard MX83 rubber isolator but natuarally i used my billet ones instead.
Motor is pushed back as far as i can, it sits about 10mm off the firewall but is still damn close to the radiator.

The gearbox crossmember that came with the R150F came out much closer than the original crossmember, when bolted to the car it's about 35mm off the mount instead of 120mm for the original.
Drilled and tapped 2 new holes in the mount itself so i could reuse 2 existing holes in the crossmember and machined up a piece of square solid to sit nicely in the lip of the crossmember with 2 new holes for rear of the mount. It then got welded in and painted.

 

[andrew_mx83]

Radiator clearance

Electric water pump

Electric PS pump

Oil straight out of sump and into cooler

Then into twin filters before returning straight into the main oil gallery. AN-12 lines, all the way from the pump outlet to the main gallery is 5/8" or greater ID.

Exhaust (mmmmm V-bands)

That brings us about up to date. All the other work ive done has been a general freshen up of the truck -new suspension, seats, lights, window regs, rust repairs etc etc. Bascially everything from the roof down is new or reco

 

[plaaya69]

Nice job so far Andrew.

 

[Enraged]

Care to share details on the power steering pump? What's is it out of and how do you have it wired? I've seen MR2 and Astra pumps used, but the MR2 pumps are getting stupid expensive.

 

[andrew_mx83]

Sure, it's just an astra pump. They are plentiful and dirt cheap in junkyards here. I haven't wired it up yet but they just get a main feed direct from the battery and then an ignition feed to turn on. I plan to use an arduino "body computer" to run a few things in the truck, I'll probably use this to interrupt the ignition feed and switch the pump off over 20km/h or so.

I like that the reservoir is part of the pump, the PS system is so simple now with 2 components and 2 hoses total. It's completely separate from the engine.
The alternator dropped almost straight into place on the PS brackets so this would seem like an easy way to relocate that for an FFIM as well.

Supposedly the pump draws 60a or so at full load/lock so I'm looking into options for a more powerful alternator. Are there any alternatives to the DM upgraded unit?

 

[plaaya69]

This person is running a Mechman 170 A 2jz alternator with a pigtail made to plug right into the factory circular plug on the engine harness.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...=13560218&highlight=SideWinderGX#post13560218

 

[suprapilot]

Can't wait to see the TQ numbers on the dyno!

 

[Enraged]

I'd switch to a Ford 3G alternator if you can get it working in your vehicle. Simple, cheap (comparably to Toyota specific models), and a huge range of amperage available. Obviously requires custom brackets, but I'm sure you could handle that.

This thread has some good discussion about alts: http://www.supramania.com/forums/threads/101888-Upgrade-Alternator-!!!/page2

 

[xCxHxRxIxSx]

Wow I gotta say I love the look and the idea of the intake, it really transforms the 7mge look and with cooler air! Great workmanship, I love to see quality custom fabrication