The 4 speakers in the rear run off of 2 channels. Leave 'em alone. I found that my system sounded better when I just disconnected the rears anyway, so I pulled my upgraded speakers out, and am just running the front stage.
If you dynamat the doors like that, that will do an adequate job of making the doors an enclosure. Get something that makes a good honest 40-50W/channel for those fronts and you'll be happy. (Though that means real wattage, usually labelled as RMS, and with a low THD number. 1% THD is unacceptable. You'd hate it, but that's what amplifiers are rated at. Usually though if you look further into the specifications, you'll see a slightly lower power rating with a more realistic THD (Total Harmonic Distortion, BTW).
The Audison LRx amps that I have are rated for 0.04% THD, and my old Aplines were rated for 0.07% THD in more typical conditions.
Now the Audisons are a bit spendy, but something can be had for a reasonable price with <0.1% THD, and that's a good place to start looking.
For installing an aftermarket deck, I'd never cut the factory wiring harness, nor would I ever recommend someone who would. Some of the best sounding car audio systems on the planet have been done without the need for cutting the factory stereo harness.
For most applications, you buy an adapter harness that has wires on one end, and a plug that plugs into the factory harness at the other. This is what you're looking for. Crutchfield, and a few other retailers will give you the adapter harness for free when you buy the deck from them. They'll also give you a "pocket" to go below the stereo for a single-DIN unit.
If you dynamat the doors like that, that will do an adequate job of making the doors an enclosure. Get something that makes a good honest 40-50W/channel for those fronts and you'll be happy. (Though that means real wattage, usually labelled as RMS, and with a low THD number. 1% THD is unacceptable. You'd hate it, but that's what amplifiers are rated at. Usually though if you look further into the specifications, you'll see a slightly lower power rating with a more realistic THD (Total Harmonic Distortion, BTW).
The Audison LRx amps that I have are rated for 0.04% THD, and my old Aplines were rated for 0.07% THD in more typical conditions.
Now the Audisons are a bit spendy, but something can be had for a reasonable price with <0.1% THD, and that's a good place to start looking.
For installing an aftermarket deck, I'd never cut the factory wiring harness, nor would I ever recommend someone who would. Some of the best sounding car audio systems on the planet have been done without the need for cutting the factory stereo harness.
For most applications, you buy an adapter harness that has wires on one end, and a plug that plugs into the factory harness at the other. This is what you're looking for. Crutchfield, and a few other retailers will give you the adapter harness for free when you buy the deck from them. They'll also give you a "pocket" to go below the stereo for a single-DIN unit.
