that dial should be set to 0. Then you can just read the BTDC number off the plate on the block.
Help! Supra doesn't run right
- Thread starter Abe's 1987
- Start date
Got you. Will double check everything tomorrow. Will probably take the iacv back apart and slightly open it just so the car can idle right. I will also double check all the cps wiring. I will also check the connectivity of the iacv wiring to the ecu.
So I checked the connectivity of the iacv wiring to the ecu last night. It's all good. While I was at it I also test the vtv and it is testing good. Will test the dashpot once it runs right. Figured I'd just test every system I can to make sure she runs right.
Weirdest thing happened at about 5 am this morning. The horn just started going off. Just unplugged the battery as I was pretty much out of it. Will pull the fuse or maybe just unplug the horns for now.
Weirdest thing happened at about 5 am this morning. The horn just started going off. Just unplugged the battery as I was pretty much out of it. Will pull the fuse or maybe just unplug the horns for now.
The factory alarm auto arms itself when the doors are locked. And will go off if any door hatch or hood is opened. The usual failure is the driver side door key micro switch fails and it goes off whenever the driver door is opened. Maybe someone tried to break into it last night?
Kinda impossible for someone to break in. The supra sits in the garage and the garage is locked. Maybe because the hood and trunk was open it set the alarm off. But all the doors on the car are kept unlocked. Kinda weird.
So I am doing random testing while waiting for the banjo bolt tap. I found out the Fp slot on the check connector is getting connectivity to the ground! Is this normal?
Was it the theft deterrent horn, or the regular horns? The security system has its own horn, so it's a good place to distinguish what you're looking for at least.
Jeff
Jeff
To tell you the truth i didnt even pay attention which horn was going. I just rushed and unplugged the battery so it didn't wake the children up.
I'm anxious for you to figure this thing out. Won't idle, won't rev, horns randomly going off, haha. You've got quite the piece of work there!
It'll be quite satisfying, I would think, once you're able to get it cleaned up and "fixed".
It'll be quite satisfying, I would think, once you're able to get it cleaned up and "fixed".
Trust me I'm more anxious then anybody. Really want to take my oldest son for a ride. He loves cars, especially ones that daddy has. He also is excited for the turbo.
Ok confirmed that the injectors were plugged in right which they were. Iacv is getting power. I don't see any visual problems with the engine wire harness.
Idle issue seems to be iacv, still looking into the wont rev up issue.
This actron company is kinda slow, it has been 5 days since I put my order in for the banjo bolt tap and it still hasn't shipped out.
Idle issue seems to be iacv, still looking into the wont rev up issue.
This actron company is kinda slow, it has been 5 days since I put my order in for the banjo bolt tap and it still hasn't shipped out.
The FP is a connection to the fuel pump supply. Putting 12V on it should cause the pump to run. Useful for testing. It draws about 5 amps.
But should it be grounded as Well? Mine is grounded.
When i check connectivity to it and the negative terminal on the battery, it is showing connection between them two.
It should not be grounded, but if you measure resistance on FP it will give you the resistance to ground through the fuel pump. If you are getting a very low resistance you may be having issues with the fuel pump itself.
Jeff
Jeff
So in layman terms a grounded Fp on the check connector means something is not right?
If you read the FP on the check connector to ground you will either be reading the resistance of the 1. Fuel pump to ground or 2. through the fuel pump relay back to the ECU. The ECU is probably solid state though so no telling how that should read. You can read it from the disconnect by the spare tire to isolate it better.
With ignition on, jumper B+ to FP in the diag box. Use a piece of copper wire for the jumper as the current is large. The fuel pump should run. If it blows the EFI fuse, then it really is shorted. But I think you are just measuring the windings of the fuel pump which are low resistance (but not shorted).
Ok I got it. When jumped the pump does runs and EFI fuse doesn't blow so it means it's all good.
Where can I get new filters for the vsv's, dashpot, and egr modulator or what should I use as a substitute?
Where can I get new filters for the vsv's, dashpot, and egr modulator or what should I use as a substitute?
Last edited:
Picked up the fuel pressure gauge today. Not to happy with actron at the moment. 6 days later still no progress in my order and I even sent an email to them like two days ago and got no reply.
Is there somewhere else I could possibly buy this bolt from?
Is there somewhere else I could possibly buy this bolt from?