Help! Supra doesn't run right
- Thread starter Abe's 1987
- Start date
K&N sells a drop in filter like that for the stock air box. Back in the day I had the K&N filter with the stock air box with a hose and scoop mounted to the plastic under cover. It was effective bc the stock air box blocked the hot engine air and the hose/scoop brought in cool air into the stock box. Honestly think it worked better than my K&N FIPK I have now.
Ok got the afm in yesterday. Going to install it by tomorrow and let you guys know. What would be the signs of a bad ecu?
Oh interesting.
I like that method much better than today's open cone filters.
I was going to modify the stock airbox to accomplish basically that same setup you are describing.
Makes no sense pulling air from the engine bay, the stock airbox had an intake below the headlight.
Much better for air temps.
Agreed . I still run the stock airbox. I have seen no convincing information that it is restrictive, unlike the stock exhaust which really does hurt performance.
Luckily I have an aftermarket exhaust on my car. I need to crawl under the car and see what company it is though. Also have that aftermarket radiator as well.
As far as exhaust goes...i found replacing the stock turbo elbow made the biggest improvement. If you still have the stock elbow, replace it. I'm rocking the old school supra sport lipp elbow but most down pipes now include this.
Is this one of those old K&N filters you were talking about?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-87-88-...ash=item3aebd7e55d:g:03IAAOSwo~lZePPg&vxp=mtr
PN: E-2605-1
Mold: B050A4
https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2605-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-87-88-...ash=item3aebd7e55d:g:03IAAOSwo~lZePPg&vxp=mtr
PN: E-2605-1
Mold: B050A4
https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2605-1
Ok so I swap out the afm. Still having the problem. I also tested coil packs and spark plug wires. Seems to be within specs. All the spark plug wires were between 2 to 4 kohms and the coil packs were 1.3 ohms. And coil packs are getting 12 volts. That is after running the car for 10 mins. I'm probably going to bite the bullet a buy another ecu just to eliminate that out. Both afm where reading 1880 ohms when testing tha with e2.
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Iacv reads at 24 ohms on all b1 to s1,s3 and b2 to s2,s4
Tps reads. Kohms
Vta-e2. 0.64
Idl-e2 .5mm. 0.18
Ibl-e2 .9mm. Infinity
Vta-e2 wot. 4.10
Vc-e2. 5.37
Tps reads. Kohms
Vta-e2. 0.64
Idl-e2 .5mm. 0.18
Ibl-e2 .9mm. Infinity
Vta-e2 wot. 4.10
Vc-e2. 5.37
Ok I bit the bullet and purchase another ecu. Got it for a steal. Hopefully that is the problem.
I still think its the AFM or wiring. You should check with a frequency DVM. The resistance test in the manual is mostly bogus. Unless the seller verified it worked before he sent it to you, it could also be bad.
Also, you didn't mention if you checked your timing. Should be 10 BTDC in test mode. I doubt its the ECU. The rarely fail.
Also, you didn't mention if you checked your timing. Should be 10 BTDC in test mode. I doubt its the ECU. The rarely fail.
I bought it off ebay and he said it came off a working car. I will try the ecu once I get it in and if it doesn't work I will get the proper meter with a good frequency function. But I will need a step by step on how to test with a frequency meter.
Question, how can my supra be running like this but not throw any error codes? Wouldn't any bad sensor throw a error code? Is there a way to forces an error code to make sure the check engine light works?
Well, the CEL flashing constantly with TE and E jumpered is exactly that check, AFAIK. The error codes are very specific. If you have a problem the Toyota engineers didn't foresee in ~1985 when they designed the diagnostic portion of the ECU then there won't be a code. Modern engines have gotten better and better at giving valuable info with error codes, but the 7M ECU is pretty basic.
Usually the engine codes will point to an issue, but not always.
Ok, so thanks to Toyota's 80's engineers, it's sometimes searching for a needle in a hay stack kinda situation kinda like my situation.
So according to tsrm all my sensor are within ohms specs. There is no check engine light on. Im getting spark, fuel and air hence car will start but won't rev up. I've installed a used cold start timing switch, used afm, new tps, new starter, new fuel filter. Checked for boost leaks. Checked to make sure all vacuum lines are in the right place. Checked compression. Had the battery and alternator tested, both tested good. Check to make sure spark plug wires are in the right order. Only things I haven't tested was fuel pressure and igniter which shouldn't cause the issue im having right? I also noticed that the egr actuator is from the 7mge, dont know if this will cause a problem?
Hopefully this used ecu I ordered fixes the problem. If it doesn't I'm at a loss what the problem is.