Help random overheating/temp spike!
- Thread starter apexi287
- Start date
starscream5000 said:Edit:: Missed an entire page of posts, hate it when I do that
You put a MHG on correct? Did you pull the motor during the change and ensure that the head AND block were flat by machining them down, along with getting the surface smooth enough to accomodate the requirements of the MHG?
What did you torque your ARP's to?
Yes a MHG with arp studs torqued to 90 lb/ft. The head was milled and pressure tested and I personally cleaned the surface of the block smooth as possible, a lot smoother then my buddys was when he did one. I did the HG job for preventive maintanance it did start spiking prior but it never over heated to cause warping of either surfaces.
90 ft/lbs.??? What lube?
How do you know the block was flat and smooth enough??
You've been overheating from what you're describing, I'd say it's warped again.
How do you know the block was flat and smooth enough??
You've been overheating from what you're describing, I'd say it's warped again.
If you still have that little temp probe pressed against the radiator, it may be moving slightly during high G turns, and giving you a weird reading.
It sounds like you have done a bunch of stuff to it since I had it. I took it on hour long trips to the lake for the weekend and never had any overheating issues at all.
I would maybe just double check some of the things that you have just done to it. Check that temp probe that is pressed against the radiator (maybe find a more suitable replacement), and just double check all the work that you have done.
Wish I could help more, I didn't have any issues.
It sounds like you have done a bunch of stuff to it since I had it. I took it on hour long trips to the lake for the weekend and never had any overheating issues at all.
I would maybe just double check some of the things that you have just done to it. Check that temp probe that is pressed against the radiator (maybe find a more suitable replacement), and just double check all the work that you have done.
Wish I could help more, I didn't have any issues.
Reading comprehension FTW:
It's not an electrical problem. Cars don't overheat because the sensor or gauge is bad...
Sounds like your HG/Head is jacked. You are getting compression into the water jacket. Pull the motor.
apexi287 said:
It's not an electrical problem. Cars don't overheat because the sensor or gauge is bad...
Sounds like your HG/Head is jacked. You are getting compression into the water jacket. Pull the motor.
Sounds like a HG problem, especially given the lack of block prep, but I would check that the rad cap is okay first with a simple test.
With the car cold, pull out the overflow tube from the overflow tank. Squeeze the upper rad hose. It should be firm and no coolant should squirt out of the overflow tube.
With the car cold, pull out the overflow tube from the overflow tank. Squeeze the upper rad hose. It should be firm and no coolant should squirt out of the overflow tube.
Unfortunantly it's sounding more and more like it's a HG problem, actually I'm probably almost 100% sure as I replaced the radiator today and nothing, no change. Everything has now been replaced checked and double checked, and the roughish idle sounds like one of the symptoms, I guess it's time for another tear down.
Would you guys recommend getting another HKS metal HG or should I still be able to reuse mine?
Would you guys recommend getting another HKS metal HG or should I still be able to reuse mine?
Also what's the best thing to use to clean the block surface? Our higher techs led me to use a die grinder with a scotch pad which I was very concerned about but they insisted it's fine(I mean I have seen them used on other cars in the shop). That's all probably for the use of a OE gasket and not a metal gasket though, I don't have time to pull the motor and take it to a machine shop to get decked so what do you guys recommend to help the surface of the block?
apexi287 said:
I suggest you make time for that if you want the car to last.
Check your oil, milkshake yet? I'd drain it to be safe. If you do this now you shouldn't have to take too much material off to get the bearings back in spec, but if you continue to drive it...
starscream5000 said:
There is no coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, I'm going to tear it down today I got a cometic headgasket and since this is my dd I need quick turn around. I'm going to check the head and block for flatness and verify what I will do from that point.
You'll need to get those rod and main bearings redone to be safe. Other wise you'll be another statistic of "rod knock after BHG repair".
A lapping plate with diamond paste will get the job done for the finish on the head and block, but remember, both have to be straight.
It sucks having this happen to your DD, but it's the only surefire way to get it done right without any worries
.
A lapping plate with diamond paste will get the job done for the finish on the head and block, but remember, both have to be straight.
It sucks having this happen to your DD, but it's the only surefire way to get it done right without any worries
.
Definitely will be checking for straightness and doing everything right as I did the first time, after I've thought and thought and read a couple threads I realized my BHG was most likely from the fact when I put the head on with help from a co worker it slipped out of our hands slightly and hit the HG at the back of cylinder 6 most likely damaging it, we will see today I'm heading now to pull it apart.
Just wanted to update the thread since I havn't in a while. It did turn out to be the HG when I put it on the head slipped and put a hairline crack in the gasket. Did another HG job and all has been fine.
im getting my rebuild head sent to the machine shop to match a groove around the cylinders to my mhg. then the head swap and gasket swap. my car is getting worst and worst. it smell like pure gas in the cabin and the exhaust is puffing out a lot of white smoke when cold. coolant is being pushed out everytime i drive it. the engine sounds loud like a diesel truck and i hear a increasing tapping when accelerating. the tech told me that the hg is blown at the 6 cylinder because the plugs has burnt coolant on it.