help.....polishing

s383mmber1

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Oct 31, 2005
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Somers New York
Ok guys, so im in a little delema!

I bought a spare intake manifold and Y pipe. Im porting and polishing them. Now here's the question. I want to "polish" the intake manifold and y pipe. I dont want to dish out 200 bucks to have it coated. Is there a "cheap" way to polish this myself. Time is not an issue. Is there a "metal polishing" kit or something at sears or home-depot? How would i go about painting, coating, or polishing this stuff?

Thanks a lot guys!

Respect will be given!

William
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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At first glance, I thought you were giving him your phone number, Justin. I was like "wtf kinda phone number?... oh... hahahahha sandpaper"
 

tomjan87

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Apr 18, 2005
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I bought a polisher for about 25 bucks. just a little air powered thing. there are pads you can buy, grey green brown. dont remember exactly, its beena while, and polishing compound. You can use wet sandpaper method also, just takes longer.
good luck
 

suprra_girl

7M POWAH! ;)
Mar 30, 2005
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www.supra.co.nz
electric drill + sandpaper drill bits + 120g + 320g + 400g + 800g + 1200g + 2000g + alloy polishing compound + polishing pads = bling ;)

make sure when you use the drill that you don't lean too hard let the drill do the work and if you do make uneven sections use a block and sandpaper to straighten it up again :)

here's pics of my 1j/7m manifold undergoing stage 1 polishing :)




 

rakkasan

Currahee!!
Mar 31, 2005
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No matter how smooth the piece of aluminum I'm working is, I always start with 80 grit. Sand it w/ 80 grit until you think you've removed all the high spots, then hit it again for another good bit. IMO, the first round of sanding is the most crucial. If you miss something in the early stages, you won't get rid of it in the latter stages.

After the 80 grit, hit it with 220, 400, 800, 1000 & then 1500. Once you've gone over it with the 800, you should be able to start seeing a luster coming through. If you see something that you missed, drop down 2 grits (ie. If you're using 1000, go back to 400) & hit it again. Don't be afraid to sand, sand the shit out it.

Get a good & powerful bench grinder & put a cotton buffing wheel on each side. One will work, but two is the ticket.

Put a small amount on the part you want to buff, keeping the working area to about a 6-12 sq inch area. Doing a larger area will cause more problems than it's worth. Anyway buff the area nice & slow. Also, use light pressure, don't push the piece into the buffer. You'll more than likely cake your paste while buffing which will cause your buffer to 'grab' your piece & it will sort of bounce. If so, back the pressure off a little until your buffing nice & smooth.

Once your done with the small area, take a clean rag & remove the paste. For the areas that the paste caked, take some clean paste & rub over it. That will release the cake. A spray wax will do the job a little better. Also, you'll see the areas that the paste caked, they'll have a yellow tint to them as if it was heated a little too much (look close at my pictures & look at the runners, you'll see what I'm talking about). For those areas, take some 1500 grit & sand the color out. It won't take much effort. Remember, get everything off before buffing the area again. Clean between each buffing, and keep your hands as clean as possible too.

You shouldn't have to buff the piece more than three times, but keep going to suit your preference.
 

billspreston01

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
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I've got a spare set of 5-star rims (that came on the car) but the plastic coating got all bubbled up over the years. I'm using the methods talked about here and it's literally taking FOREVER! we're talking over an hour for 1 spoke. It took me 3 days to finish 1 rim (3+ hours each day)I need power (doing it all by hand currently)

Do you think a light sandblast would leave pits in an aluminum rim? Or would it help me skip the first few sanding steps (mainly 80 and 180)
 

rakkasan

Currahee!!
Mar 31, 2005
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billspreston01 said:
I've got a spare set of 5-star rims (that came on the car) but the plastic coating got all bubbled up over the years. I'm using the methods talked about here and it's literally taking FOREVER! we're talking over an hour for 1 spoke. It took me 3 days to finish 1 rim (3+ hours each day)I need power (doing it all by hand currently)

Do you think a light sandblast would leave pits in an aluminum rim? Or would it help me skip the first few sanding steps (mainly 80 and 180)

Get a palm sander, and a dremel will help immensely too. I have about 4 hours in my manifold, with most of the time being spent on the runners.

My advice is to spend more time sanding with the rougher grits, definitely not less. After skipping the lower grits & sanding for hours, I had to go back to the lower grits a basically start again because the higher grits couldn't take the larger cast marks off.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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Another way to crack this nut is to use a file on the casting marks...medium cut 1st, then a fine cut. Follow with a coarse wire wheel (cup type) on an electric, hi-speed grinder, follow with a fine wire wheel. I take larger casting marks (like the stamped numbers) with an air grinder. Then start sanding with a palm sander as Rakkasan suggested.
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
And being the totally lazy old guy I am if I ever lost my mind enough to go bling on aluminium components I'd track down somewhere close by that does the High Temp Ceramic coatings and pay them to drop my part in their Vibratory Polisher for a couple of hours after I had deburred and removed as much of the surface imperfections as possible ;)