help please

[86yota]

please read if you have the time long one sorry....:icon_sad:

so maybe like 5 days ago my engine light came on i pulled out three codes, 22,42 and 51

22...i know its on because of my temp sensor i have it unplugged for a reason.

42...Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal ive been tinkering with it.

51.. iam just not to sure about. i was reading it would be linked to something with the a/c? or the TPS?? i have disconnected the compressor maybe that a hint.? i have also switched tps with an extra maybe i should get a new one...

The issue she is having is when i turn the key to start her up she will just crank and crank ..ill stop crankin it and turn again,most of the time it takes two times for her to turn over when she does its idling rough as hell around 500 rpm then if i touch the throttle a little she will clear up and raise to 8-900 R's. The weird thing is if i raise her up past like 3g's you can what sounds like the flapper in the VAF closeing and it tries to stall until i let off the throttle. in other words,if i kept my hand on it the engine would just die when i let go it catches and evens out.


I have also just noticed a oil leak from behind my engine look in picture for view.

when rebuilding my kit came with that gasket so i replaced it but now its covered in oil and been leaking alot i can see it on my tranny. i hope i not have to pull it out to fix it. but iam pretty sure its some sort of pressure plate might be related to my problems. please let me know what you guys think thanks .

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Can't tell what you are pointing at. Did you set the TPS according to the TSRM?

 

[86yota]

Can't tell what you are pointing at. Did you set the TPS according to the TSRM?

its the only plat that located back there has a few 10mm bolts as far as the TPS ill set it to tsrm tomorrow.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Why do you have the temp sensor unplugged???

As for your 51, reset your codes, and make sure the A/C is switched OFF, and car is in neutral or in park. Crank and run the car, then recheck codes. Keep your foot off of the accelerator pedal while checking the codes.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

its the only plat that located back there has a few 10mm bolts as far as the TPS ill set it to tsrm tomorrow.

The only part I know of back there with 10mm bolts is the EGR cooler, need a better pic.

 

[gofastgeorge]

Oil at the rear of the head may be coming from leaking cam cover gaskets.
The EGR cooler cover has no oil to leak, it just has exhaust gas passing through it.

 

[CRE]

Synopsis, I'm having problems and I don't know why...

22...i know its on because of my temp sensor i have it unplugged for a reason.

42...Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal ive been tinkering with it.

51.. iam just not to sure about. i was reading it would be linked to something with the a/c? or the TPS?? i have disconnected the compressor maybe that a hint.? i have also switched tps with an extra maybe i should get a new one...

News for ya, every problem you're having you created. Stop screwing with things until you know the implications.

Reconnect the temp sensor (I'm assuming you're referring to the ECU's temp sensor) or replace it if it's bad... it may be all you need to do to help with the cold start issues.

Undo whatever you've done to the speed sensor.

Reconnect the A/C... I doubt the TPS is at fault for the code 51 in your case.


If you're seeing oil pouring down from the #3 valve cover (aka spark plug galley cover), then you've got two possibly locations for it to leak from: The hex bolts that hole the cover down, or the main valve cover seals. Did you over torque the valve covers when you put them on? The torque spec id 22 INCH pounds, NOT foot pounds. Over torque and you can warp the covers or tear the seal. If you did torque them correctly have you replaced the seals recently?

 

[jetjock]

^ What is this mental block you're having about disconnected AC and code 51? I thought we covered that?

Lets try being a bit more technical:

http://tinyurl.com/4gla45

The G/O (V/W) wire entering the AC amplifier on pin 2 is the AC on signal coming from the CC panel. It's the signal that tells the amplifier to energize the clutch. The B/W wire leaving the amplifier on pin 11 goes to the ECU. It become active when pin 2 is active and is the sole communication between the two systems. It's used to change idle target speed for AC operation and is also the signal used by the ECU to generate code 51 when in diag mode.

As you can see a break in the line would not cause a code 51. On the contrary it would cause a code 51 to be absent. It should also be obvious the entire underhood AC system could be ripped out without effecting this. As long as the CC panel, AC amplifier, ECU and wiring between them is OK the code should appear when the AC button is lit. The clutch will energize at the same time whether you're in diag mode or not. The engine doesn't even have to be running for any of this to happen. Try it and you'll see...

 

[86yota]

Synopsis, I'm having problems and I don't know why...



News for ya, every problem you're having you created. Stop screwing with things until you know the implications.

Reconnect the temp sensor (I'm assuming you're referring to the ECU's temp sensor) or replace it if it's bad... it may be all you need to do to help with the cold start issues.

Undo whatever you've done to the speed sensor.

Reconnect the A/C... I doubt the TPS is at fault for the code 51 in your case.


If you're seeing oil pouring down from the #3 valve cover (aka spark plug galley cover), then you've got two possibly locations for it to leak from: The hex bolts that hole the cover down, or the main valve cover seals. Did you over torque the valve covers when you put them on? The torque spec id 22 INCH pounds, NOT foot pounds. Over torque and you can warp the covers or tear the seal. If you did torque them correctly have you replaced the seals recently?

sorry for the confusion i have my electric fans running right now i do not have the sensor hooked up from my thermostat because i want the fans to run full time right now all that sensor does is tell the fans to turn on at certain times. i have mine on all the time. it has been running fine like that for months now.

well i had a sensor that was unpluged on the lower back side of the thermostat not sure which, i pluged it back in the cleared the code it went away.....

I did not do anything to the speed sensor i realized my extra TPS was from a GTE and put my other back in the idle is fine now. besides the issue is not the idle.

I have the A/c belt off and its wire is disconnected. pretty sure that why the code is there but its been off since i put the engine back it months ago.

...all the codes have cleared and have not reappeared.

The oil leak is not coming from any part of the valve covers c'mon guys i have rebuild this motor from the block up my self , i think i should be able to tell if the covers where leaking. the oil is coming out from the end of the block its a real tight space between the firewall and the block the only "Plate" back there. the wire harness runs above it. you cant get any pictures of it. there is no view with a camera.

the car has ran great untill i recently had a problem with the VAF i switched with a used one ran fine a two weeks then i started geting these codes. might be related.

 

[CRE]

^ What is this mental block you're having about disconnected AC and code 51? I thought we covered that?

No mental block, but seeing as he's managed to screw with everything else god only know what he may have done with the A/C other than simply leaving the wires hanging...

Best place to start when having car problems: The last thing you f#$ked with.

EDIT: None of the codes listed have anything to do with the VAF, at least not as far as I recall. The only reason I could think of that you might hear the VAF slapping shut at higher RPM would be if there were some serious air entering the intake from another place.

 

[86yota]

No mental block, but seeing as he's managed to screw with everything else god only know what he may have done with the A/C other than simply leaving the wires hanging...

Best place to start when having car problems: The last thing you f#$ked with.

EDIT: None of the codes listed have anything to do with the VAF, at least not as far as I recall. The only reason I could think of that you might hear the VAF slapping shut at higher RPM would be if there were some serious air entering the intake from another place.

i did not do anything else to it but any way thanks for the help iam gunna find some people around my area that can hand on help me thanks again.

 

[jetjock]

CRE: Ok, just checking. Agree about the OP. Pretty clueless...

 

[86yota]

No mental block, but seeing as he's managed to screw with everything else god only know what he may have done with the A/C other than simply leaving the wires hanging...

Best place to start when having car problems: The last thing you f#$ked with.

EDIT: None of the codes listed have anything to do with the VAF, at least not as far as I recall. The only reason I could think of that you might hear the VAF slapping shut at higher RPM would be if there were some serious air entering the intake from another place.

the last think i changed was my fuel filter

 

[CRE]

i did not do anything else to it but any way thanks for the help iam gunna find some people around my area that can hand on help me thanks again.

Hey, I have been brash and unpleasant the past couple days. I offer my apologies to you and anyone else I may have beaten on.

Seriously though. There is nothing in the codes you've posted that are related to the VAF. The VAF is also a wear component it is quite possible that the one you swapped in has seen the end of it's serviceable life.

The codes you are experience are most likely related to the modifiactions you've made. The code 51 I suspect is most likely related to something having gone wrong with the A/C delete, but it can also occur from stepping on the throttle when pulling the codes or from the TPS being misaligned preventing the TPS' IDL switch from closing... or the IDL contacts could just be bad. The TPS too is a wear component.

Your oil leak... Well, if it's running down from above the EGR cooler (the "plate") then you're only options are spilled oil when filling, oil leaking from the valve covers or oil leaking from the bolts that hold down the #3 cover, OR (unlikely) oil leaking from the coupling hoses to the PCV pipe. If it's leaking from below the EGR cooler then the most likely spot would be the head gasket.

I hope this help (I really do).


EDIT: Oh and JJ doesn't the ECU adjust timing and fuel if there's a problem with the temp sensor? If so then the car is probably not running fine although you may not know it.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Nice post CRE! And, I wanted to post what you said in the edit, but did not want to post inaccurately. I cut it off at just "Why is it unplugged". I haven't had time to search, so hopefully you will have just saved me that.

 

[jetjock]

With the coolant sensor unplugged the ECU defaults to a hot value. That effects both cold enrichment and timing. I doubt his AC is involved in the 51 because it appears he didn't remove the amplifier. I dunno though since he communicates things very poorly. I'll agree on one thing: many of his problems were self inflicted. His posts also show an overly inflated assessment of his own abilities.