HELP no power after rebuild

[enawazh]

Hey guys so the rebuild is done. its a 7MGE with W58. im getting no power at all. on my first drive out it got hot so i turned it off and got it home. took out the thermostat and it doesnt get hot. So now running it with no thermostat and its not going past the 1/4 mark. now i checked the timing and all the marks are aligned. Crank at 0 and timing marks aligned with back plate. I adjusted the distrubutor and its idling normal. however when i rev to 3000 and lift off, RPM drops to 500 and the car struggles to stay alive. It recovers and idles normally around 900 after that. Now my main problem is when i took the car for a drive i had ZERO power. The thing will not pull. i didnt adjust TPS according to TSRM. I hear an AIR leak around the intake manifold near the firewall. All the Vaccuum hoses are connected and connected correctly. Someone please help. Where can i go from here. It does smoke when cold but then no smoke once its warmed up. Im scared i installed it wrong and have BHG AGAIN. i know im all over the place but im just exhausted and need my baby to run. Ohh and im getting good compression all round around the 150-155 mark. Please Help
I reused the old injectors and old spark plug wires. I had to splice new injector connectors into the harness as the old ones were hardened and snapped while pulling them off.

 

[trydrew]

on my first drive out it got hot so i turned it off and got it home. took out the thermostat and it doesnt get hot.

i didnt adjust TPS according to TSRM.

I hear an AIR leak around the intake manifold near the firewall.

Where can i go from here.

From here, I would investigate the above problems and fix them. Take your time and don't get stressed. It only makes the chance of mistakes increase.

Check for codes, adjust TPS per TSRM.

Find possible vacuum leak.

And most importantly find out why it's overheating. Is the radiator clogged? Just look over the systems and think logically about possiblities.

Get that thermostat back in too. Running without it is just masking a problem. Of course, figure the problem out asap.


And... What do you mean by rebuild...? Just BHG repair?

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

You said you adjusted the distributor, with a timing light with the jumper wire?

 

[enawazh]

Thnx for the prompt replies.
To answer AJ distributor was installed by screw driver method. i aligned the rotor to fire the #1 cylinder at TDC.
How do i adjust It using jumper wire? The TSRM only says to line up the notches.

I got the car and it had BHG. I rebuilt everything. Rebuilt the head and block new piston rings. new gaskets all round. new radiator. new radiator hoses. Crankshaft and connecting rods were torqued to spec. i used ARP with moly torqued to 85 ft/lbs. you guys should see this motor its freakin clean. however i have this bad feeling that it might be leaking compression into the radiator. when i rev the engine ( when cold ) coolant level in radiator rises and overflows. now i dunno if thats a 100% sign of BHG. as far as tuning the TPS and Distributor. It wasent performed according to TSRM. I guess first thing would be to adjust those. however regarding the vacuum leak ive checked all the hoses and they are connected. I will put in the new thermostate and run it tomm. and update you on if it overheats. I hope it doesnt.

Another thing i forgot to mention is that its a auto to W58 conversion. I have the Neutral safety bypass but my reverse and clutch safety are not wired.

Thnx again guys.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Thnx for the prompt replies.
To answer AJ distributor was installed by screw driver method. i aligned the rotor to fire the #1 cylinder at TDC.
How do i adjust It using jumper wire? The TSRM only says to line up the notches.

I got the car and it had BHG. I rebuilt everything. Rebuilt the head and block new piston rings. new gaskets all round. new radiator. new radiator hoses. Crankshaft and connecting rods were torqued to spec. i used ARP with moly torqued to 85 ft/lbs. you guys should see this motor its freakin clean. however i have this bad feeling that it might be leaking compression into the radiator. when i rev the engine ( when cold ) coolant level in radiator rises and overflows. now i dunno if thats a 100% sign of BHG. as far as tuning the TPS and Distributor. It wasent performed according to TSRM. I guess first thing would be to adjust those. however regarding the vacuum leak ive checked all the hoses and they are connected. I will put in the new thermostate and run it tomm. and update you on if it overheats. I hope it doesnt.

Another thing i forgot to mention is that its a auto to W58 conversion. I have the Neutral safety bypass but my reverse and clutch safety are not wired.

Thnx again guys.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20

That's how you check the timing. And yes it and the TPS adjustment should be done according to the TSRM.

 

[landspeedrich]

Check these
1.Might have a bunch of air pockets in moter from being a part.Try burping it out with thermostat out.Is thermostat installed right direction?
2.Get timing where it needs to be,and check if timing is advancing with rpm,up to 3000 etc.Not sure what total is suppose to be
3.Check vacuum hoses for cracks.If you have a vac gage.find a port you can temp. hook it up to and at idle,you should have 18-21 inchs vacuum.If not,find your leak.
Hope that might help,don't panic.There are alot more other things that could be worse.Usually the goofier the problem,the simpler the solution.Good luck RS

 

[Island_Yota]

Maybe the intake manifold gasket isnt sealing properly, wouldn't explain over heating though especially if the thermostat is new.

 

[trydrew]

What about your water pump, is it new?

 

[enawazh]

What about your water pump, is it new?

Yes the water pump is new. OK so i just got me a timinmg light and an engine tach. So im gonna adjust every thing according to TSRM. and run the car with the thermostat. Lets see. ill post my results later today. to answer yota, I checked the intake gasket and it looks like its sealing. Thnx again for the input

 

[enawazh]

Great news. The timing light worked. The ignition was wayyy off. it was firing at TDC. However 7mge requires 10 before TDC. so finally got her running smooth. she pulls strong ill tell you that. still have to drive her with the thermostat. so i will do that tomm and post updates. Thnx again guys for the help. A few things ive learned. TIMING LIGHTS are amazing and that if you dont have one you can still use the screw driver method to line up the distributor. just make sure spark to cylinder 1 is set at 10 degrees before TDC and not exactly at TDC.

Now about the TPS. im having trouble understanding how to adjust it, mainly what "Continuity" Means? Tsrm says to check for continuity between IDL and E2 terminal

Thnx again

 

[toy fanatic78]

Now about the TPS. im having trouble understanding how to adjust it, mainly what "Continuity" Means? Tsrm says to check for continuity between IDL and E2 terminal

Continuity is when the contacts close to complete the circuit.Multimeter setting looks something like this -->l

 

[Neal]

I would be very cautious with the thrashing of a freshly re-built motor.

Dude take it easy for at least 1000klm and make sure you change your first oil at 300klm.

Don't revv it past 3000, you want the piston rings to bed in properly, 7m has a cast iron block it takes a while for the piston rings and the bores the accept each other and make ponies happily.

P.S you' ve done well. Also that water over flowing out the radiator cap when you revv it is normal.

 

[enawazh]

Thanks Neal,

I appreciate your concern fellow supra brother. I only went up to 4000 rpm insure power. i haven't gone over since and have been avoiding freeways like the plague. I still have to put in the Thermostat so i haven't driven the car since my first test drive. Although i am relived that the coolant rising is normal. Other then that I'm in the middle of moving right now so the car is on hold for a few days i will definitely update this thread with final details and maybe some pics you guys can get a good look at her. lol Thnx a lot for all the help guys.

 

[Neal]

Can't wait to see them picture.

 

[enawazh]

Sorry guys. Couldn't get pictures up tonight. hopefully by tomm. Anyway, i tuned the TPS according to TSRM the throttle response is excellent ( no more dead zone). However, i can still hear a loud hiss ( air leak/ Vac leak ?) at the rear of intake manifold. I rechecked all the vacuum hoses and they are fine and are connected correctly. i checked the manifold gaskets and they seem fine. Any Ideas?

Another thing is I'm having erratic idle. It idles fine but accasionally RPM would dip to 500 and it will struggle to stay alive and eventually turn off. The ISCV is operational ( I hear clicking and the car does turn off when i pinch the bypass hose). I'm guessing it has to do with the leak I'm hearing.

One last thing, my timing belt looks wobbly. I mean that when the car is running it seems that the belt is not on evenly. some parts towards the front of the Cam and some towards the rear. so when rotating it looks like the belt is wobbling. Now my question is. Is it fine to wobble? if not then how should it sit?

Thnx again guys

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Sorry guys. Couldn't get pictures up tonight. hopefully by tomm. Anyway, i tuned the TPS according to TSRM the throttle response is excellent ( no more dead zone). However, i can still hear a loud hiss ( air leak/ Vac leak ?) at the rear of intake manifold. I rechecked all the vacuum hoses and they are fine and are connected correctly. i checked the manifold gaskets and they seem fine. Any Ideas?

Another thing is I'm having erratic idle. It idles fine but accasionally RPM would dip to 500 and it will struggle to stay alive and eventually turn off. The ISCV is operational ( I hear clicking and the car does turn off when i pinch the bypass hose). I'm guessing it has to do with the leak I'm hearing.

One last thing, my timing belt looks wobbly. I mean that when the car is running it seems that the belt is not on evenly. some parts towards the front of the Cam and some towards the rear. so when rotating it looks like the belt is wobbling. Now my question is. Is it fine to wobble? if not then how should it sit?

Thnx again guys

Where is the clicking coming from?

And no the belt isn't suppose to wobble. You need to check the tension on the belt and make sure the tensioner is torqued to the right amount.

Also while you are at it, check to make sure all the timing marks on your cam gears, crank pully, rotor pointing at #1 wire, and the #1 piston is at TDC. A lot of times when guys install the timing belt they do not rotate the motor a couple of times and recheck the timing marks.

Forgot to add, check your crank pulley bolt.