Help needed with temporary smoking turbo to NA conversion.

Help needed with best way to run supra without turbo temporarily. I've done some searches. Most I've come up with is creating a dummy turbo.

My issue: Turbine is bent in a few places. Started smoking heavily (definately oil smoke).
To confirm it was infact the turbo causing the smoke. I locked up the turbine wheel with an aluminum rod and wired wastegate open and the smoke went away almost instantly. Major loss of power with this option and possibly screwing something else up.


What I need is a fast/easy way to run this car as N/A for a short amount of time seeing as I've just had a baby come into the world and buying a replacment turbo is not in my funding this month.

What do you recommend? Block off oil lines with paper gasket and turn down boost? Any way to reroute the AFM to the throttle body easily? Open to any ideas as crazy as they may be.

And also. Need direction for easiest way to remove the turbo with just one person and list of best tools to use for the job. (My job allows me access to any tools I will need).
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
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Fullerton,CA
I'd try to get a used a turbo either good or with alight play and get a rebuild kit and do it your self if your mechinally inclined. If not just find a decent used one for cheap and don't boost.

Cannot use the gte electronics for a na application. It will go nuts.
 

jake8790

Life's too short for N/A
Dec 18, 2011
395
0
0
Oregon
It's not going to work. You would need an n/a exhaust manifold and downpipe. Then you have open oil lines, open coolant hoses, and it probably wouldn't run right. Best bet is to find a used turbo for cheap, then save for a new one. Look on craigslist and ebay. Replacing the turbo is pretty easy. unbolt the downpipe and turbo elbow. take off the accordian pipe. take off the coolant hoses. take off the support brace. get under the car and take off the oil lines from the turbo it's either a 10mm or 12mm socket and long 1/4" drive extension. unbolt the 4 nuts holding on the turbo with a 14mm wrench.
 

planemos

New Member
Apr 22, 2011
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Slocan Park, BC, Canada
Just remove the turbine exhaust wheel that's all you have to do. Except you more than likely would have to take off the turbo. But it would be cheap to do. More work than money. I know for a fact it can be done because I know a guy who has done it and has driven his car around for months like that.
 
LOL. Yeah. I'm reading the replies and thinking why would I buy another turbo when I said I couldn't right now.

@Planemos: As far as removing the exhaust side turbine... What about intake side? Could I let it spin freely to keep from having any intake air restriction?

And IJ. I know you're right about it running fine without boost... At low throttle the turbine is just spinning freely creating practically no boost. Which is why I can drive the car with the turbine purposely locked into place... The turbine not spinning is causing an air restriction that I can feel when I try to go over 40% throttle.

Seems like Planemos has the idea I'm looking for. I was just wondering if anyone has done this and may have some instructions on how to do so.
 
Sounds good. I don't care about how much work it takes. I have more than enough time on the weekend to do this.


Also have to mention that this is my DD for work. So thats another reason why I'm doing this. To keep from blowing smoke all over the highway and other cars. Plus it clouds up the car and makes my clothes smell.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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I come from a land down under
You need the Water as it's part of the bypass, Oil needs to be blanked off though so you don't drop pressure.

If you take the Turbine out it's welded to the shaft so the Compressor wheel has nothing to bolt to.
 

bioskyline

New Member
Oct 21, 2010
1,236
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powell river bc
the collant line to the turbo can be looped with hose at the themostat housing aswell, which is common to do when going to a larger turbo that is only oil cooled.
 

Skeezix

Supradope
Dec 30, 2009
229
0
16
Regina, SK
If you are gonna be taking it off and pulling it all apart why don't you try to "fix" it? Mine was blowing smoke like crazy so we ripped it off and got one from buddys parts car. Well that sat for a year or two so the seals dried up and it blew smoke like crazy as well. So we take it all apart, 8 hours of cleaning all the coke and crap out of it and 77 cents later I had a new oil seal. Back together and been boosting 10~ PSI for better part of a year now, no smoke just the slight hint of oil smell on a rank deceleration.
 

Skeezix

Supradope
Dec 30, 2009
229
0
16
Regina, SK
The guy who jams an aluminum rod in the turbo to stop the turbine from spinning is worried about balancing. Fail. And if you're gonna rebuild it but don't have the money, just do the quick fix, get yourself to work and save your money for the rebuild and then balance it. Who knows if you can rebuild it anyway. But another thing look in the for sale section for a spare turbo. There is two right now $70 and $100
 
Bolt is actually a M12 x 1.25. Tried ACE hardware. Had the bolt but way too long. Went to Lowes. Found one thats close to the same length but I bought a nut and threaded it all the way to the head of the bolt to shorten the length. Works great. No leaks.

By stopping the oil flow with this bolt... Will this cause any damage within the engine? I know some people are running water cooled only turbos on the 7M.

And Skeezix. If you would read. You'd see that I'm buying a new turbo. Why rebuild a 21 year old turbo thats been rebuilt several times with used cheap parts? I jammed an aluminum rod into the turbo because the wheel is chewed up beyond usage and I'm replacing the whole turbo.