HELP! Many problems with unknown causes

[jdub]

Keep in mind Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic oil...it is a hydrocracked (Grp III) dino oil. Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30 is a much better choice...it's a true synthetic, Grp IV PAO based oil. Get it at AutoZone...there's a lot more info in the oil section here.

If you really want to pay for Mobil 1 and not get what you pay for, use the 5W-30. Pennzoil Platinum is also a Grp III oil, but is much better due to the additive package...Pennzoil has also taken the hydrocracking process to a higher level, to the point where there is little difference between this oil and a PAO. Use the 5W-30.

Filter - Wix or a NAPA Gold (also a Wix).

 

[fartman]

Keep in mind Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic oil...it is a hydrocracked (Grp III) dino oil. Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30 is a much better choice...it's a true synthetic, Grp IV PAO based oil. Get it at AutoZone...there's a lot more info in the oil section here.

If you really want to pay for Mobil 1 and not get what you pay for, use the 5W-30. Pennzoil Platinum is also a Grp III oil, but is much better due to the additive package...Pennzoil has also taken the hydrocracking process to a higher level, to the point where there is little difference between this oil and a PAO. Use the 5W-30.

Filter - Wix or a NAPA Gold (also a Wix).

Cool! Hey, what about Royal Purple? I used to use it when I owned a Trans Am WS6 for its LS1 motor. Always thought about putting it into Supra, but never talked to anyone who has used it before in a Supra. Most of them always gave me a weird look, like 'What is Royal Purple?'.

 

[jdub]

RP = Grp IV PAO oil. German Castrol has a better additive package and is usually less $$$ per quart.

 

[fartman]

RP = Grp IV PAO oil. German Castrol has a better additive package and is usually less $$$ per quart.

K. Getting back to the situation with the car, should I just keep driving it until another error comes up? As of right now, it is working as if nothing had happened at all. I PMed Shaeff regarding the KS rewire, but was wondering what should be done until then.

 

[jdub]

Can't do much unless it happens again

Could be a heat-soak issue with the electronics.

I would take a look at the CPS wiring/connector...that is a very common problem area on these cars.

 

[fartman]

Can't do much unless it happens again

Could be a heat-soak issue with the electronics.

I would take a look at the CPS wiring/connector...that is a very common problem area on these cars.

K. I'll take a look at it when I get a chance.

 

[fartman]

Alright, drove it this morning, and it did the exact same thing it did last week. I turned back around and parked it at home. Checked error codes, and code 52 came up, knock sensor signal. What do we think? I read another thread that said that the ECU will pull the timing because of the knock signal, and that it will also not allow an advance in timing.

 

[Poodles]

Yep, 52 means it's not getting a knock sensor signal so it pulls timing as it can't tell if you're knocking and is trying to protect the engine.

 

[fartman]

Yep, 52 means it's not getting a knock sensor signal so it pulls timing as it can't tell if you're knocking and is trying to protect the engine.

How do you check if you knock sensors are working? I wouldn't mind doing this before having to replace both of them. I know that I'm going to have to rewire them, but I would like to save myself some good old time and money.

 

[figgie]

How do you check if you knock sensors are working? I wouldn't mind doing this before having to replace both of them. I know that I'm going to have to rewire them, but I would like to save myself some good old time and money.

well

If the wire is not broke and everything is still connected. The ECU barking that the knock sensor is faulty is usually pretty spot on. And since one failed, minus well replace both.

 

[Poodles]

Most of the time it's the wires and not the sensors...

 

[fartman]

Most of the time it's the wires and not the sensors...

Here is my gameplan, see if this is good to go or not:

I am waiting on the Rewire kit from Shaeff. I will not replace the Knock Sensors, but will rewire all the way to the ECU. If I don't receive the error code, then I'll be good. If I still receive it, I'll replace the Knock Sensors.

But the only thing that bugs me is how hard it will be to access the Knock Sensors. I am thinking that since I am doing the rewire, I may as well do the Knock Sensors too, just to ensure that the problem is eliminated.

 

[fartman]

Rewired, and no more knock! Yay!

One more thing, what is the break in period for rebuilt 7Ms?? 1k miles? Mine is not picking up very fast after 3000rpm, but could be because it still needs to be broken in, and the oil used was conventional Pennzoil and Pennzoil filter. What do you guys think?

 

[ForcedTorque]

Congrats on the re-wire! Hopefully it will help out. If you do still have problems, you can probably find a used set in a part out thread. As stated, they usually are not the problem, so you should be able to trust them.

Can you describe the re-wire process. I have always heard of the re-wire kit, but I don't know a thing about it. Is there a tech thread on it with pictures?

 

[fartman]

Congrats on the re-wire! Hopefully it will help out. If you do still have problems, you can probably find a used set in a part out thread. As stated, they usually are not the problem, so you should be able to trust them.

Can you describe the re-wire process. I have always heard of the re-wire kit, but I don't know a thing about it. Is there a tech thread on it with pictures?

I don't think there's a tech thread on it; be good if there was, because this is a common issue. I can put Shaeff's directions on it with his permission.

 

[figgie]

rebuilt as in, the pistons rings replaced and bore honed?

Or do you mean rebuilt as just doing a Head gasket job?
Or perhaps just changed all the bearings.

If the first. Quick and dirty but has to be driven hard.

2nd and 3rd requires no "break in" period.

 

[fartman]

rebuilt as in, the pistons rings replaced and bore honed?

Or do you mean rebuilt as just doing a Head gasket job?
Or perhaps just changed all the bearings.

If the first. Quick and dirty but has to be driven hard.

2nd and 3rd requires no "break in" period.

This one was actually called 'reconditioned'. They did the seals, rings, bearings, compression testing, etc. I'm doing 3000rpm max on it, and just 30 mins ago, I went more, and felt that it was not accelerating greatly after 3500rpm, but accelerating better than when knock sensor wiring was messed up. Maybe I'm just not used to a Supra Turbo yet. I might wanna change the oil and filter to AMSOil, and go to NGK Iridium plugs.