Help I'm ready to call it quits.......

born2drv

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nosechunks;1445595 said:
Check ignition timing.

Do you have to calibrate the AEM wideband? I remember something about some of them you do, my zeitronix calibrates itself.

What did Church say about it?

Has it ever ran good? What did you touch before it started eating plugs?

I'll have them check timing next I think. Church recommended I get the injectors flow tested by RC, so that's another thing I'll be getting done as well.

What did I touch before it started eating plugs? Man, everything... I did all the mods in 1 shot, built the motor, put the FFIM on, AEM EMS, etc... I have no idea where to start... maybe I should have only added 1 after market product at a time.
 

born2drv

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jdub;1446124 said:
Std heat range on this plug? If so, go one step hotter.

What air filter are you using?

I'm using the NGK 6282's, which are 1 step colder then stock... you think that's the problem? I thought you're supposed to go 1 step colder for every +100hp gain over stock plugs? Not go hotter???

Air filter is K&N.
 

born2drv

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sethron71;1446141 said:
Sounds like you have very good vacuum, -19 at idle is very good, so no vacuum leaks. Which rules out the ISC leaking and manifold leak. Have you done a boost leak test? If you have any questions at the intake or the mechanic wants to talk to me PM me and I will get you my number.

My guess would be weak spark or break up. You did the COP mod but have you done anything with the stock multiplex, a lot of people have troubles with this and the AEM.

Check these links out:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,25074.0.html
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,8345.0.html
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/board,57.0.html

Does it foul the plugs just sitting there idling? Or do you drive it and then it starts missing slowly dies out?

Again PM if you have any questions about the mani.

HTH,
Seth


Thanks Seth, I'll forward the multiplexer info to the mechanics... I'll send you a PM too......

Regarding your questions...

We have done a boost leak test, no problem there...

Sitting there idling, I don't think that's enough to just foul plugs... I drive the car about 200 miles / week... When the engine is hot, like if I shut it off and try to start it 5 mins later, it doesn't want to start at all unless I give it gas while starting.... and over time the car just gets harder and harder to start, and the car misses more and more and just feels like it's running less efficient, less power... until the plugs are totally fouled and the car refuses to start.
 
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jdub

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born2drv;1446683 said:
I'm using the NGK 6282's, which are 1 step colder then stock... you think that's the problem? I thought you're supposed to go 1 step colder for every +100hp gain over stock plugs? Not go hotter???

Air filter is K&N.


Unless the plugs are fouling...I don't believe in that "rule of thumb". If you have a 700 HP motor, you run 4 steps colder? You use the plug, gapped appropriately, that best suits your ignition system.

Dump that filter.

We do need pics to make a more educated call...post pics.
 

TurboStreetCar

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Everything done at once, does make it difficult to narrow down. I will second the multiplex issue. When I installed my stinger 8860 I had a nasty missfire in the 2krpm range. Switching to a 3000gt ignitor comletely solved the problem and only cost about 100 bucks from advance auto.
 

sethron71

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born2drv;1446687 said:
Thanks Seth, I'll forward the multiplexer info to the mechanics... I'll send you a PM too......

Regarding your questions...

We have done a boost leak test, no problem there...

Sitting there idling, I don't think that's enough to just foul plugs... I drive the car about 200 miles / week... When the engine is hot, like if I shut it off and try to start it 5 mins later, it doesn't want to start at all unless I give it gas while starting.... and over time the car just gets harder and harder to start, and the car misses more and more and just feels like it's running less efficient, less power... until the plugs are totally fouled and the car refuses to start.

Sounds like you AEM start up tables are not setup properly. You could be fouling the plugs slowly with the start up issues. If your tuner is dumping a ton of fuel in on hot starts he maybe flooding it out and you clear it enough with the throttle to make it start but the plugs wear over time.

Seth
 

born2drv

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OK thanks for being patient guys, I let my fiance borrow my camera and I just got it back... Anyhow... here are some pics....

Spark plugs are NGK 6282 (+1 colder), about 5 days old (~150 miles, started maybe 20-30 times).

They're actually not as bad as they normally look when the plugs are replaced, but I usually run the plugs until they are very fouled and the car refuses to start, since they foul so fast.

I really appreciate everyone's help!
 

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Poodles

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Not really in long enough that I can be sure, but looks like the strap has carbon deposits on it though usually from too cold of a plug...
 

sethron71

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Looks to me that those plugs are flat washed down. The plugs should have some color to them after 150 miles. It looks like the plugs are getting washed clean and look at the darkness of the outer ring is that very sooty when you wipe it, not dry? What do the tops of the pistons look like after all the miles you have put on them? If he still says the tune is fine, I would pull the head, look at valves, and the cylinder walls. But my guess is the pistons are as clean as the plugs.

HTH,
Seth
 

jdub

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Poodles;1447921 said:
Not really in long enough that I can be sure, but looks like the strap has carbon deposits on it though usually from too cold of a plug...

Just like I said earlier :D


sethron71;1448015 said:
Looks to me that those plugs are flat washed down. The plugs should have some color to them after 150 miles. It looks like the plugs are getting washed clean and look at the darkness of the outer ring is that very sooty when you wipe it, not dry? What do the tops of the pistons look like after all the miles you have put on them? If he still says the tune is fine, I would pull the head, look at valves, and the cylinder walls. But my guess is the pistons are as clean as the plugs.

HTH,
Seth

Ummm...are you serious? He might be running a little rich, but damn sure not enough to pull the head.
 

sethron71

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jdub;1448371 said:
Just like I said earlier :D




Ummm...are you serious? He might be running a little rich, but damn sure not enough to pull the head.

Fouling the plugs is a little rich to you? Come on, that is way beyond a little rich! I said if the engine builder and tuner insist there is nothing wrong with the tune then pull the head. Really isn't that much work. I would pull the head in a heart beat before I quit! But also note that I said take a look in the cylinder and there was a list prior to the last resort of pulling the head.

Anyways, Yosef, if you can do a log of a start up and send me the log I will take a look at it.

Seth
 

jdub

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Seth - Don't you think it will be a heck of a lot easier to try a hotter plug? You made it sound like pulling the head was what you would do...there are plenty of options to do 1st.

That plug is not showing signs of "wash" (it's practically new)...it's showing a bit of soot (at the moment). If he was running that rich, his AFR would show it.
 

jdub

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^^^ Exactly! The new plugs are useless for any sort of diagnostic. They are damn sure not "washed" down.
 

born2drv

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Shit, I wish I kept a set of the old plugs to take pics.... Anyhow, I'm going to swap out the +1 colder BCP7RES (6282) plugs for the standard BCPR6ES (3220) and if it still stumbles and misses I'll try the +1 hotter BCPR5ES (6696). I'll keep all those plugs for pics and bump this thread when I have more evidence to share :)

Thanks again for everyone's help.....