yes I i know it was stupid. but a buddy has 2000 horsepower v8 and he told me o-ring the block use a copper gasket and it wont blow. bad idea he he had iron block and iron head. I have iron block aluminum head the properties of aluminum and copper together are bad! I learned though. I put a cometic mls with studs and hylomar sealeant.
Help!!!!! I cant figure this overfuelling issue.
- Thread starter 7mboze
- Start date
hey Brian let me borrow one that didnt fit. but we tested the injector at his shop. The injector was not even hooked to any power. we took carb cleaner and sprayed in it and it come out of the other end. So the injector was stuck open all the time. Now I am having to buy one 550 rc injector from rc. if you have a spare that fits a 7m fuel rail I would love to buy it from you. Everybody sells them in sets and I dont need the whole set. I know thats a long shot since you have all jz stuff. Thanks for your help. let me asap. I will drive to get it because its quicker than ordering. ..
Thanks for he response Rollus and Indigo but I never said either of you were wrong. I simply said it would be unlikely because my injectors were sent to rc engineering for cleaning a balance a month ago. Thats why I tested other possibilities first. 2. Also 5 and 6 injector wires were crossed(my fault). So I had two things that were wrong. Looks like rc engineering dropped the ball on this one. Thanks guys for your help and insight.
hey guys I put in a new injector and it the car doesnt flood thenumber 6 cylinder any more. The injector was stuck open. BUt the car still wont stay running. It runs for a 2 seconds and shuts off. But its not flooding anymore. Also I noticed my fuel pressure guage holds pressure after taking out the bad injector. IF you guys fuel pressure drops to 0 immediately after running the car you may have a leaking injector as a possibility. Thanks for all the help supramania.
Car won't stay running? Any other symptoms? Does it stumble really bad before dying or does it just turn off? Any new codes after you reset the efi fuse?
Also, with that injector stuck open, check your oil. It could be that the stuck injector flooding the cylinder has ruined your oil.
Also, with that injector stuck open, check your oil. It could be that the stuck injector flooding the cylinder has ruined your oil.
it cranks and stumbles but never gets to idle. no new codes. I changed oil before attempting to crank it. The oil was full of gas needless to say. it should be that hard. new cps, new wiring, plugs and wires. rewired afm. checked afm resistance. I guess I will rewire the IAC today, those wires look frayed. I try it again later on today and see what happens thanks!
7mboze;1908221 said:
It cranks and stumbles but never idles? That sounds like you got the CPS off one tooth.
Did you reset your fuel pressure regulator. If it is still set at 20 psi it will not run properly.
i have reset the fuel pressure regulator, efi and everything. I have an intermittent spark problem. I will have to track down where the problem is. I have new cps, coils,plugs,plugwires, new coil connectors. It will take a while to through tsrm but I will find the problem. thanks for your response. any advice will taken
7mboze;1909424 said:
When you say new cps, did you pull out the cps and put another one in? Are you sure the CPS is timed to the engine correctly? Don't overlook this as many many people do and chase their tails forever. One tooth off the car will spit and sputter but will never really idle unless you hold it WOT.
yes took out old cps and put a new one in. I dont mean to sound arrogant but I have owned this car for 16 years. I believe I could time it blind folded. However The only thing that puzzles me is when the crank is at 0 on a compression stroke, timing marks matched up to timing cover my intake cam sits a like 10:30 11'o clock. Tsrm picture has it more like 1 O'clock. These are stock cams and car ran fine like this before I did the mhg. Would that be problem? It doesnt seem like it would be to me because the lobe is still up and valves are still closed. The exhaust cam lobe is straight up. Thats only thing as far as timing thats not like TSrm. I take all advice, contructive criticism and non constructive criticism if it helps me. THanks!
Well I hate to be 'that' guy but if you owned the car for 16 years, why can't you fix this problem?
Are the cam gears on the center dowel pin hole? With the car sitting at TDC on cylinder 1, where is the CPS pointing at inside the case?
Have you double checked all the grounds? Especially the ones on the block and intake manifold, mine was a little loose on the block and if the engine moved a tiny bit, it would break the connection but would start back up fine.
What else did you rewire?
Are the cam gears on the center dowel pin hole? With the car sitting at TDC on cylinder 1, where is the CPS pointing at inside the case?
Have you double checked all the grounds? Especially the ones on the block and intake manifold, mine was a little loose on the block and if the engine moved a tiny bit, it would break the connection but would start back up fine.
What else did you rewire?
I never said I couldnt fix it, I am having some trouble finding the problem. Once I find the problem I will fix it. Yes-the cam gears are in the center hole. yes- I took cam gears off to see if the pins in the cam were in the center. yes its its at tdc. Also did a knock sensor rewire to clear my code 52. The the area I am targeting when i get off work. I will check the grounds on new wire. Thats all I rewired. all other wires were replaced completely. Thanks again for response IndigoIndigoMKII;1909705 said:
You say that the intake cam is at a 10:30 position @tdc?
Both cams should have their timing marks lined up to the timing marks on the upper rear timing cover when at tdc.
Verify that your #1 piston is indeed at tdc by pulling the spark plug and checking, rather than relying on the lower cover timing marks. This will rule out a slipped crank pulley
Both cams should have their timing marks lined up to the timing marks on the upper rear timing cover when at tdc.
Verify that your #1 piston is indeed at tdc by pulling the spark plug and checking, rather than relying on the lower cover timing marks. This will rule out a slipped crank pulley