Heater core bypass, how to?

iwannadie

New Member
Jul 28, 2006
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no, youll need to buy some new heater hose.

i bypassed at the heater entry point(pass side). then used a hose extension thing and cut the hose coming out of the motor(dead center, rear). id Like to not use the hose ext. but i cant get to the inlet on the motor.

you might want to try and flush the heater core first. any coolant in there will stay for a long time it doesnt evaporate.
 
C

cnewingham

Guest
Its not hard. You have the nipple on the back of the head (top center) and you have the end on the hard pipe along the head on the drivers side rear that you connect to. I went and bought to moulded 90 deg. heater hoses and a 90 deg. hard elbow and connected them all together. I can try to get you pics later when I get home.
 

Stretch

Tallest MK3 driver ever!!
Mar 30, 2005
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Just curious as to why you wish to do this. Heater core not work and you're not looking to change it? Remember you'll have a hard time deffoging windows and what not in the rain etc...
eric
 

GotToyota?

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Apr 6, 2005
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Well I'm getting the waterfall sound behind my dash, I believe there is trapped coolant in the heater core. Couldn't I just flush it out and I would be good to go?

-Matt
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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If I lived in TX, I'd probably do the same thing.
Just get some bulk heater hose from the parts store and run 'em where they need to go.
 

GotToyota?

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Apr 6, 2005
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GotToyota? said:
Well I'm getting the waterfall sound behind my dash, I believe there is trapped coolant in the heater core. Couldn't I just flush it out and I would be good to go?

-Matt
To everyone, I want to keep the heat still, so could I maybe try to flush out the heater core?

-Matt
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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Yes you can Matt. Perform a full coolant system flush, taking all precautionary steps to remove all air bubbles that may be trapped in the system. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get all new coolant circulating through your system anyhow.
 

tookwik4u89

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Apr 6, 2005
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The waterfall sound is typically air trapped in the heater core due to low coolant or combustion leak(BHG) into coolant system. Make sure your coolant system is topped off, start car with rad cap off, put your heater on full hot and rev the engine good a few times after warmed up and t-stat is open, with rad cap off( a funnel in the rad helps to keep from spilling over), you probably notice the waterfall sound goes away. Cap the radiator. If after a couple times of driving it comes back, you have a prob with air in the system, ie BHG. Pressure test cooling system.
 

iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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jdub said:
All you have to do is block both ends off...the heater circuit is a closed loop, it will affect nothing if you do so. You could use the block-off nipple" (from Toyota) that is common on the passenger side block water hard pipe. Here's the schematic:

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&Page=2


you dont want to block them off. you need to bypass. if you block off the coolant cant flow properly and youll get a big hot spot in the back of the motor.
 

tookwik4u89

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Apr 6, 2005
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That is not true, Jdub is right, the heater valve blocks off flow when it is shut. so this would be no different. Check out the link he posted. It is nice to have heater core for extra cooling if it gets hot in emergency.
 

mrnickleye

Love My Daily Driver !
Jun 8, 2005
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tookwik4u89 said:
That is not true, Jdub is right, the heater valve blocks off flow when it is shut. so this would be no different. Check out the link he posted. It is nice to have heater core for extra cooling if it gets hot in emergency.

The coolant flows thru the core continuously, except when the inside temp setting is placed at 65*.

I would prefer to keep the coolant flowing out that back port, just for the extra protection, so I would run a by-pass hose.

Also, my research on 7m BHG's showed that the MAIN place the gasket goes bad is a leak from #6 cylinder combustion chamber over to the closest coolant hole.

It starts out very small, that's why the first symptom is the waterfall sound (air) in the core (which is the highest spot in the cooling system).

The second symptom is coolant flowing over to the recovery bottle, as the combustion gasses pressurize the cooling system.

If you keep driving, the leak gets bigger, and the next symptom is coolant out the tailpipe.
 

Boost Lee

Bee Doo Bee Doo Bee Doo
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Sep 13, 2006
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The side nipple on my Heater valve got brittle and busted all over me when I was tightening it down all the way...

Just went to Advanced, bought a 3/4" Brass double nipple end inserts, took the 2 hoses w/ the brass insert in between, clamped it down...and life goes on.

I still get heat, when my windows start to or is fogged up, turning the heat on DOES make the fog evaporate.

I win.

:icon_razz
 

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tookwik4u89

Red T-shirt
Apr 6, 2005
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Lol....mine did that too, but of course your getting heat, your bypassing the valve not the heater core ya goofball! Bad part with that is you get heat when you dont want it, it's not bad though, I had mine like that.....wait....I still do, lol!
 

Boost Lee

Bee Doo Bee Doo Bee Doo
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Sep 13, 2006
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Oh I know lol. I just read a few posts and just said, "Okay, don't feel like reading. I'll just post my stuffs. ;)"

Goofball? Indeed.

:p

Jeff
 

Boost Lee

Bee Doo Bee Doo Bee Doo
Staff member
Sep 13, 2006
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:rofl:

You can't laugh at me. That's racist. :eek3:

No seriously...Everyone says that bypassing the heater valve will mean constant heat into the cabin...whereas, that's not the case. If my heat is off and set at 65 degrees, there is nothing coming out and it stays cool in the cabin. Oh well. I ain't complainin'...It's gettin' cold here in Indiana now. ;)