Im having my neighbor do my headgasket. I bought a greddy metal gasket and he told me some of these gaskets require that adhesive spray when installing. Do i need to do this. Secondly, i was told 3 passes to 80 foot lbs. Also, what about torque sequence. Let me know thanks, Bob.
Headgasket change question
- Thread starter huntin5L
- Start date
This doesnt exactly answer your question... but did you get both the head and the block resurfaced? If not... i might reconsider the metal gasket to begin with.
Although there are some who have done otherwise, you really should resurface the block before going with a metal headgasket. You have a huge margin of error with the stock gasket but with the metal gasket, the surfaces should really be PERFECT. I would AT LEAST have your mechanic take a straightedge to the block to make sure is completely level.
I bought an hks 1.2mm metal headgasket during my last build, but decided to go stock headgasket and arp headstuds.
I bought an hks 1.2mm metal headgasket during my last build, but decided to go stock headgasket and arp headstuds.
FOLLOW the torque sequence in the TSRM. if you dont, you deserve to have your motor get messed up. for some strange little reason, i get the impression that your neighbor whos doing the job for you asked these questions for you to find out for him?
if thats the case, take your motor to a REAL mechanic to do the work.
as for how many passes, i like to to 10, 20, 30, and so on.
and finally, DO IT RIGHT OR DO IT TWICE. have a machine shop cut the block, and have the head resurfaced.
if thats the case, take your motor to a REAL mechanic to do the work.
as for how many passes, i like to to 10, 20, 30, and so on.
and finally, DO IT RIGHT OR DO IT TWICE. have a machine shop cut the block, and have the head resurfaced.
One thing you need to know is that HKS and Greddy recommend a Roughness Average of under 15 microns for their head gaskkets. That is way way way way way smoother than you will get at ANY machine shop. Dont waste your time looking around because you will not find anybody that can do it. Just trust me. If there was a place that could do it it would be all over the forums. What I have done in the past (and it works just fine) is coat the MHG with a few passes of Permatex Brake Quiet or similar product. It will help fill in the microscopic ridges/cracks that are left behind from standard machine work and mold to the surfaces when the head is torqued down. I would like to thank Malloynx for introducing me to the idea, although he was not the pioneer.
Alot of people will bitch and moan if I post it up that you dont need to resurface the block. Here's the low down:
If you ARE NOT going to use the "brake quiet", and only the factory rubber coating on the MHG, you better get everything DAMN SMOOTH. The stock rubber HG coating is actually quite rigid, and will not mold itself to the shape of the head/block surface. Newer MHG's by Fel-Pro have a much softer rubber coating and are more forgiving. Just be sure that your block isnt warped or pitted and that it is very clean.
You will have to lap it if you do not use the brake quiet. I have used 4 HGaskets now - 3 in the Sup and 1 in my Turbo GSX eclipse. I have never had a HG failure with the permatex (I actually use napa brand) brake quiet method.
BLAH BLAH. I know some of you are going to say:
"WHY DID YOU HAVE TO DO 3 HG JOBS THEN???!!!!"
1. Standard HG change
2. Thrust washer took a shit
3. Rodknock
Eclipse: MHG install - 10k and still ticking
Alot of people will bitch and moan if I post it up that you dont need to resurface the block. Here's the low down:
If you ARE NOT going to use the "brake quiet", and only the factory rubber coating on the MHG, you better get everything DAMN SMOOTH. The stock rubber HG coating is actually quite rigid, and will not mold itself to the shape of the head/block surface. Newer MHG's by Fel-Pro have a much softer rubber coating and are more forgiving. Just be sure that your block isnt warped or pitted and that it is very clean.
You will have to lap it if you do not use the brake quiet. I have used 4 HGaskets now - 3 in the Sup and 1 in my Turbo GSX eclipse. I have never had a HG failure with the permatex (I actually use napa brand) brake quiet method.
BLAH BLAH. I know some of you are going to say:
"WHY DID YOU HAVE TO DO 3 HG JOBS THEN???!!!!"
1. Standard HG change
2. Thrust washer took a shit
3. Rodknock
Eclipse: MHG install - 10k and still ticking
p5150 said:
so if i dont have the block surfaced when i have mine changed then i should put down permatex brake quiet? (along with my Fel-Pro metal head gasket, its actually called PermaTorque because its grooves to the imperfections(if Any) on the block/head)
It all depends on the individual projects... Take a straighedge to your block and tell us what you find.
Should i be scared that im not doing the block. They only took off 9 thousands from the head. Everything looked really good. So what i conclude is that im gonna tell him to go 3 passes to 80 ft lbs and use the spray. You guys are making me nervous im wondering if i should put on that apex gasket that came with the head rebuild kit.
I resurfaced the Head and not the block. My MHG lasted about a week then blew again. I did not use the Break Quite idea either. I did not know about the break quite. Nor did i realize that it needed to be that smooth. Follow what these gusy tell you.
It will save you allot of time and money.
It will save you allot of time and money.
Last time I checked, FEL Pro did not produce MHGs for the 7M series. I think what you have is a standard composite head gasket. Not a METAL head gasket. THere is a difference. Composite HGs are more forgiving to imperfections because they are softer. However they will not hold up as well to abuse. Be sure to check on that
I only took a straight edge to my block and I've had no problem. My case was a little different than most, though, as it was a new shortblock about 20K before that with a rebuilt head. I'm guessing the head was resurfaced when the short block was replaced.
I personally didnt machine either the block or head, and am going 15,000 miles and still running strong. The one thing i did use is the liquid aluminum bars leak, which fills in any gaps that the MHG doest seal. WORKS GREAT! My local supra shop (well its a performance shop that specializes in supras) said they NEVER do a MHG install without bars leak.