Ive been reading around and everyone has different opinions. My car has about 10k miles on a rebuild from the previous owner, and i want to know if i should retorque the stock bolts? Or just buy arp bolts?
head retorque questions
- Thread starter Boosted516
- Start date
If you know it was " truly " replaced then I would re-torque it.
I have had plenty of success with 74 FT-LBS.
When you do this, hopefully this will help the guy last a little longer.
I have had plenty of success with 74 FT-LBS.
When you do this, hopefully this will help the guy last a little longer.
check to see if its factory bolts or arp's. If it has arps. i would assume that the guy did his hw and probrably already did the retorque and the hg job properly. do you know any information about the motor? who did the rebuild and what headgasket did he go with? stock? cometic? metal?
Not to mention any Oil in the bolt hole will hydraulic the stud then release in time allowing movement and a change in torque on the nut...
I presumed people would have enough common sense to thoroughly clean out most of the oil from the hole before installing the stud.
They are only ment to be finger tight into the block, so not even close to bottoming out, which still leaves a bit of room for expansion for the tiny amount of oil in there.
If the hole is saturated with oil then its another issue.
If done correctly sure beats having to remove the head.
They are only ment to be finger tight into the block, so not even close to bottoming out, which still leaves a bit of room for expansion for the tiny amount of oil in there.
If the hole is saturated with oil then its another issue.
If done correctly sure beats having to remove the head.
Well the two I have done so far were pretty clean & I only needed to suck out a little bit of oil & deposits.
Once I cleaned & measured the hole depth of the first one used the figure to ensure they were all pretty much the same as I went along.
If they were a bit more full of deposits it would take a lot longer to clean out but not impossible, just very time consuming, & you would need to make up an extension for the thread chaser.
Here are some relevant pictures I came across.
Once I cleaned & measured the hole depth of the first one used the figure to ensure they were all pretty much the same as I went along.
If they were a bit more full of deposits it would take a lot longer to clean out but not impossible, just very time consuming, & you would need to make up an extension for the thread chaser.
Here are some relevant pictures I came across.
Attachments
![APRStudsBlock[1].jpg](/data/attachments/20/20391-772378db5e355bafaaf8e4ec30a75af6.jpg)
![ARPStuds[1].jpg](/data/attachments/20/20392-2c2fef2abfd932d8697e287ff178d826.jpg)
If you note the dimension for thread length of the ARP stud vs the stock bolt, the ARP stud is longer. It's not the crap in the bottom of the hole so much (it does need to be removed), it's the crap in the threads where the stock bolts have not contacted in 15-20 years. It doesn't take much for the studs to improperly seat all the way down.
would it be bad to retorque with original bolts? cause this would be the third time. if not im just gonna follow this link. http://cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/head_retorque.aspx
IJ.;1292656 said:
Dunno about BC but I use a Bottoming tap works quite well.
Of course it is a $65 dollar Tap but when you want the job done right.
I tried thread chaser, the crap that I purchased ended up sheering inside the block...
thevork;1300264 said:you can retorque the stockers just fine
even after them being torqued down twice already? i just wanna be sure
figgie;1300336 said:
Wow figgie, that's expensive. I got mine at a hdwe store, for about twelve bucks, and it's still going fine.