Hello, I recently purchased a 1991 turbo supra. The previous owner kept all maintenance paper work and service records. All the documents were transferred to me. Today, I was looking through the paperwork and found a $2,500 bill for a head gasket replacement procedure at a Toyota dealer in Washington that dated back to late 2001. The vehicle at the time had 80,000 miles. Today it has 106,000. My question is, was Toyota aware of the incorrect torquing of the head gasket in the year of 2001? Did they re torque the new head gasket correctly or to the same amount of torque as they did in its production days? I see no symptoms of a blown head gasket in my supra at the moment. Is my supra a ticking time bomb?
Head replaced and reassembled engine at Toyota dealer some 10 years ago
- Thread starter caballo
- Start date
i didnt have luck setting washers/nuts over my arp studs without lifting the cyl head up to the tip of the stud (when assembling my motor) so unless you want to replace the headgasket to a mhg...and if youre keeping it near stock levels, id just buy new factory bolts, lube them up and replace 1 at a time while torquing in sequence.
Block threads need to be chased as the ARP's go deeper into 20 years of gloop/corrosion.
If that wasn't a factor it's fairly simple to install studs into an assembled engine, you remove the factoy bolt use a magnet to remove the washer then drop the ARP Washer in with some Moly lube to hold it in place, then you drop a Stud in and do it up using an Allen key to finger tight followed by the Nut.
If that wasn't a factor it's fairly simple to install studs into an assembled engine, you remove the factoy bolt use a magnet to remove the washer then drop the ARP Washer in with some Moly lube to hold it in place, then you drop a Stud in and do it up using an Allen key to finger tight followed by the Nut.
The same thing happened to me. Was going thru my receipts and found one for $3500.00 from a toyota dealership that fixed a bhg on my car and put a brand new head on. and my head gasket blew two months ago and I had to get a whole new long block. cost $5000.00 for the new engine and to have it installed. Go arp and save yourself
connor.stephens;1756851 said:
how I got a long block for 50 bucks and did the work my self new pistons rings bearing and stock rods. I could do so much with 5k you got raped on price.
mine had new everything they also replaced the timing belt and water pump. I needed mine back because its my daily driver. and mine has a Warranty so if anything breaks it gets fixed for free...
Sorry IJ, I am not too familiar with any type engine work that requires extensive disassembly. Correct me if I am wrong, but from my understanding of your instructions the engine block has threads that need to be chased? Meaning all the threads for the bolts need to be cleaned out or re-drilled? As far as the placing of the ARP's, I don't really know how to the ARP method works. I'll have to do research..
Most likely I will have to settle with a shop, such as driftmotion, or kaizen motorsports, to do the work for me due to the simple fact that I do not own a garage nor a wide variety of tools yet. Once I own a garage, there's no telling what I'll do to my 7m.
Thank again for the help.
Most likely I will have to settle with a shop, such as driftmotion, or kaizen motorsports, to do the work for me due to the simple fact that I do not own a garage nor a wide variety of tools yet. Once I own a garage, there's no telling what I'll do to my 7m.
Thank again for the help.
When you chase the threads a LOT of crap comes out, can't really do this safely on an assembled engine.
^ this, dont take it any further unless you plan on pulling the head.
Two main issues to consider. You cant properly bottom tap and clean the threads with the head on. More importantly... removing one stud/bolt at a time is begging for some head warping which = BHG.
Do a standard re tq and leave it alone.
Two main issues to consider. You cant properly bottom tap and clean the threads with the head on. More importantly... removing one stud/bolt at a time is begging for some head warping which = BHG.
Do a standard re tq and leave it alone.
grimreaper;1757921 said:
Like this, right? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/head_retorque.aspx