Hey guys, I was driving hard one weekend and popped my OEM radiator which in turn killed my head gasket :nono:. Since the heads coming off anyways how hard was the job and are there any machinery places that do PnP jobs in the brooklyn area near bay ridge? Its a 1JZ planning on the Ypipe and complete valve train too :icon_bigg
Head machining needs
- Thread starter NYsBlueMA
- Start date
NYsBlueMA;1494112 said:
Its aggravating when I spend my time trying to help you in the thread where your saying you didnt blow the head gasket and you didnt drive it hard and everything else you said here http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115341 and then I see this thread. :nono:
Take it to S&K Speed in Long Island. I took my 7MGTE head there they charge a good price.
Directions, Southern State to exit 35(Lindenhurst.)
-When you get on the exit ramp, stay left. You will see a sign saying Linderhurst.
-Make Left And Continue Down The Road.
-A "Route 109" sign will be on the right side when you get to a big intersection, Make The Right.
-Continue Down This Road For About Two Or Three Blocks And You Will See S&K Speed On Your Right. If You Take This Same Road, It Will Put You Back On The Southern State To Get Back Home.
I have told everyone this the same way I posted it here and they all found it no hassel. Don't use Westchester Crank because they are horrible. They were supposed to rebuild the head and they mixed up the valve shims and buckets. I found shim that were supposed to be on the exhaust side, on the intake side. They were horrible, all they know is American cars.
S&K Speed is an American Speed Shop but the guy is now getting equipment to do Imports and he does pretty good job. Charged me $140 to mill the head and then hot tank it.
Directions, Southern State to exit 35(Lindenhurst.)
-When you get on the exit ramp, stay left. You will see a sign saying Linderhurst.
-Make Left And Continue Down The Road.
-A "Route 109" sign will be on the right side when you get to a big intersection, Make The Right.
-Continue Down This Road For About Two Or Three Blocks And You Will See S&K Speed On Your Right. If You Take This Same Road, It Will Put You Back On The Southern State To Get Back Home.
I have told everyone this the same way I posted it here and they all found it no hassel. Don't use Westchester Crank because they are horrible. They were supposed to rebuild the head and they mixed up the valve shims and buckets. I found shim that were supposed to be on the exhaust side, on the intake side. They were horrible, all they know is American cars.
S&K Speed is an American Speed Shop but the guy is now getting equipment to do Imports and he does pretty good job. Charged me $140 to mill the head and then hot tank it.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I'd reccomend to have the head SONIC cleaned, not hot tanked. (Often the hot tank can damage stuff you really don't need to replace.)
Here is my thought.
1) Are the valve seats leaking?
2) If all you are going to do is replace your valve seals, why do a valve job? (I totally am there with replacemnt of your valve springs with the Comp Cams ones, that is a good upgrade, but if you don't have burned valves, or seat leaks, why do the valve job?)
I think many a head is screwed up by well meaning, but inept shops who take it all apart, and then don't know how to put it all back together right again. (Or they will sell you shims you would not have needed to get it back into spec. again.)
Here's what I've seen work very well.
Get some egg cartons.
Remove the cams, and put the bolts and cap for each cam journal into one row of the cartons. Note that each one is numbered, and goes back where it came from.
Now notice that your valves are not in the way of having your head milled... LOL (No reason to go further if you just need to clean up the head for a gasket.)
Let's assume you want to replace the valve seals.
Use a magnet, and take out the shim. Place them in order in the egg carton. Place the shim bucket with each shim.
Now, using the right tools, you can compress each valve slightly, remove the locks, and the retainer, and the valve is free.
Pull the spring up and out the way. (You will replace them, but for now, put the spring, locks and retainer into a egg carton in the right order. You will have two rows, one for the intake, and exhaust.)
As you go, you should have the shim, bucket, and then locks/retainer/spring all in even rows in the order they go back on the head, along with the cam caps and bolts in the same order to keep it all stright.
If you pull the valves, keep them in the same order. (This assures the seats are going to match.) There is NO REASON TO PULL THE VALVES HOWEVER.
Sonic cleaning will clean both sides of the valves, and into the intake and exhaust ports. It uses sound waves and mild solvent/fluid to clean, not high heat, and harsh chemicals.
So, if your head has been sonic cleaned, and you just pulled the springs, you should see the valve stem and seal there. Remove the seal. Put a new one in place, Put the new valve spring into place, and put the old retainer and locks into place. Then put the shim bucket and shim into place. (Everything is now back where it was, and your head has new valve seals, and new springs, and should be just as good clearance wise, and valve seal to seat wise as it was prior to you removing it from the engine.)
You could in theory, take it all apart, and do some mild port work, and put it all back together with no valve job being done, and it would be perhaps better than it was if the shop cuts the valves, and then attempts to get it back into spec with shims after wards. (Many shops will grind the valve stems down to get back the clearance.. Something that takes skill, but it does not require new shims this way.)
For the average guy who's dealing with a blown head gasket, I think many heads are often worked on more than they need. (It's your money, so spend it on new springs from Comp Cams and a good set of valve seals.) The rest is just because the shop will not take the time to do what I just outlined, and they want to cut the valve seats so they can charge you for a valve job.
There is one more tip that can save some money and trouble. (That large bolt at the back of your head where the coolant goes in and out.. it's often rusted, and brittle.. If you break it, you are spending money to replace it, and if you hot tank the head, you will be most likely replacing it.)
Here is my thought.
1) Are the valve seats leaking?
2) If all you are going to do is replace your valve seals, why do a valve job? (I totally am there with replacemnt of your valve springs with the Comp Cams ones, that is a good upgrade, but if you don't have burned valves, or seat leaks, why do the valve job?)
I think many a head is screwed up by well meaning, but inept shops who take it all apart, and then don't know how to put it all back together right again. (Or they will sell you shims you would not have needed to get it back into spec. again.)
Here's what I've seen work very well.
Get some egg cartons.
Remove the cams, and put the bolts and cap for each cam journal into one row of the cartons. Note that each one is numbered, and goes back where it came from.
Now notice that your valves are not in the way of having your head milled... LOL (No reason to go further if you just need to clean up the head for a gasket.)
Let's assume you want to replace the valve seals.
Use a magnet, and take out the shim. Place them in order in the egg carton. Place the shim bucket with each shim.
Now, using the right tools, you can compress each valve slightly, remove the locks, and the retainer, and the valve is free.
Pull the spring up and out the way. (You will replace them, but for now, put the spring, locks and retainer into a egg carton in the right order. You will have two rows, one for the intake, and exhaust.)
As you go, you should have the shim, bucket, and then locks/retainer/spring all in even rows in the order they go back on the head, along with the cam caps and bolts in the same order to keep it all stright.
If you pull the valves, keep them in the same order. (This assures the seats are going to match.) There is NO REASON TO PULL THE VALVES HOWEVER.
Sonic cleaning will clean both sides of the valves, and into the intake and exhaust ports. It uses sound waves and mild solvent/fluid to clean, not high heat, and harsh chemicals.
So, if your head has been sonic cleaned, and you just pulled the springs, you should see the valve stem and seal there. Remove the seal. Put a new one in place, Put the new valve spring into place, and put the old retainer and locks into place. Then put the shim bucket and shim into place. (Everything is now back where it was, and your head has new valve seals, and new springs, and should be just as good clearance wise, and valve seal to seat wise as it was prior to you removing it from the engine.)
You could in theory, take it all apart, and do some mild port work, and put it all back together with no valve job being done, and it would be perhaps better than it was if the shop cuts the valves, and then attempts to get it back into spec with shims after wards. (Many shops will grind the valve stems down to get back the clearance.. Something that takes skill, but it does not require new shims this way.)
For the average guy who's dealing with a blown head gasket, I think many heads are often worked on more than they need. (It's your money, so spend it on new springs from Comp Cams and a good set of valve seals.) The rest is just because the shop will not take the time to do what I just outlined, and they want to cut the valve seats so they can charge you for a valve job.
There is one more tip that can save some money and trouble. (That large bolt at the back of your head where the coolant goes in and out.. it's often rusted, and brittle.. If you break it, you are spending money to replace it, and if you hot tank the head, you will be most likely replacing it.)
Hey adjuster, I'm just curious as to how hot tanking a head can unnecessarily damage parts? I'm not disagreeing I'd just like to hear your experiences there. Also if you know what time of tank solution that they/you used that'd be great.
Thanks
Thanks
How often do the valve guides go bad? I'm going to be building a cylinder head and have been considering having the guides replaced. Was wondering if I should have it done or not.
lewis15498;1499118 said:
damn i just read that whole thread all he was saying is that he was still breaking it in but on this thread hes saying he was driving hard....
NYsBlueMA why bullshit with lewis if all he was tring to do is help you..? and why make another thread on the same subject..?
Moy;1514286 said:
They go bad when they are worn out.... Which many are because of the age of our cars. It is very likely your guides are out of spec.