Well, I removed the turbo and exhaust side finally. I was wondering how do I go about removing the cam gears, do I have to remove the crankshaft for the head gasket too? What are ARP studs in relation to the head? Thanks to everyone that has helped me to this point your knowledge is helpful.
Head gasket
- Thread starter RedDogOIF
- Start date
The cam gears are easily removed once you remove the bolts that hold them on. You don't touch the crankshaft when replacing the head gasket either. The ARP studs is what holds the head to the block. Are there no local members that live near you? This would go smoother for you with a little help. Good luck.
I was talking about the cams, not the gears. The gears are easily removed also. Make sure you get the engine turned to TDC before you take them off though and it will help you with everything going back on. I'm not a mechanic at all nor do I play one on t.v., but it's not the hardest job to do. Make sure to have at least the head resurfaced since you're not pulling the motor. Good luck.
Search the site for the TSRM, go to section 03_EM (Engine Mechanical), and follow the instructions carefully. It will tell you everything you need to remove, in what order, and how to reassemble with proper torque specs, etc. I did my HG with little basic knowlege by reading the TSRM through carefully, printing it out, and coming here with questions when I got stuck.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
RedDogOIF said:
To keep them from turning to loosen them? I took a thick cloth, some vice grips, clamped them down *(around the outter edge of them) and turned hard, it provided enough leverage.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
You have to disassemble the head if you are going to have it re-surfaced....
What I did to install/remove the cam gears, was stick a flat-head screwdriver in between a spoke of the gear, and use one of the rear timing cover mounting bolts for leverage, worked great.
What I did to install/remove the cam gears, was stick a flat-head screwdriver in between a spoke of the gear, and use one of the rear timing cover mounting bolts for leverage, worked great.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
JustAnotherVictim said:
+1
I left the heater hose, hose bracket, alternator bracket, and a few other things attached.
Somebody correct me quick so I can delete this if I'm wrong, but isn't it better to leave the cams in until the head has been checked for warp?
NO, the cams, when torqued down, can make the head look like it's straighter than it actually is, when it's really not. There should be no outside forces warping the shaped of the head that it wants to go into on it's own (usually do to an overheat or two).
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Got the head off. It looks like someone changed the gasket before and never cleaned the surface before putting on the new gasket....well you can only imagine the nice gaps the coolant had to flow into. The gasket didn't look that bad and the surface was straight. Hopefully I can say that I got somewhat lucky. The valves look like they have been through a war with the amount of carbon build-up. The spark plugs were soaked in new oil that I was putting in when it was low....valve gasket maybe? Or just the head gasket?