Head Gasket question

s383mmber1

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Hello guys!

Heres my deal, I am converting my non-turbo to turbo through a NA-T swap with GTE electronics AND maf-t pro.

I am on the STOCK head gasket, not retourqued or anything with 140xxx miles on it. I had it compression testes and the number came out very good.

Now here were the *problems* come in. First off i dont want to wait untill i blow the head gasket to have to replace it. And im *fairly* certain ill end up blowing it with 300+ horses on stock NA headgasket (higher compression).

The next thhing, ive got ALL winter, untill march/april to get the car running and ready. What are your ideas in terms of head gasket wise? I am HIGHLY considering the HKS stopper that Ian suggested. He said it survived a 36(?) psi boost spike!

IF, i go with HKS, or any, metal head gasket will i need to get the BLOCK machined? Or jsut the head? I know i need the head machined, but do i need to get the block machined with any head gasket?

Thanks for your time in advance, and please keep it on-topic!

-William
 

s383mmber1

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So that means i need to pull the engine? Damnnit.

I thought that cometics were signifigantly more forgiving and you didn't need to re-surface?
 

suprahero

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Not to sound too cliche' but ..............If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over................:dunno:


Good luck............lol
 

s383mmber1

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Then how do these people on here change the head gasket in a weekend?

Kyle i KNOW they dont all have there heads and black machined. Ive heard of plenty of people doing in in a after noon with no problems.


:1zhelp:
 

s383mmber1

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suprahero said:
Not to sound too cliche' but ..............If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over................:dunno:


Good luck............lol

Jay,

did you read the entire post? I have almost 6 months.

Thanks for the "help".
 

Big Wang Bandit

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Pulling an engine isnt hard. I know your block is in good shape but if your going to go metal it needs to be flattened.

Ive rebuilt Ford 351's in 2 days with my uncle. Engine work doesnt always take a long time!

As Jay said. Do it right the first time.
 

GotToyota?

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Will, I'm going with a new stock Toyota headgasket as well as ARP head bolts for my NA-T head setup. I've heard nothing but good remarks about this combination.

-Matt
 

s383mmber1

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Ok thanks guys, im going to wait for some people who have done this over and over answer as well.

Doesn't f'in machine work take forever though?
 

phoenix6

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s383mmber1 said:
Ok thanks guys, im going to wait for some people who have done this over and over answer as well.

Doesn't f'in machine work take forever though?

Far as I know they can machine a block or head in a day as long as youre not in a big ass waiting line. The work itself could be done in a day
 

suprahero

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Will, I'm doing my wifes in a weekend, but I'm not going with a metal hg. Hers didn't blow either. It tore while retorqing the head. I'm replacing it with a toyota hg. I have never used a metal hg, but I've read numerous times that both surfaces have to be machined for optimum performance and safety. I hope it goes smoothly for you...............lol
 

s383mmber1

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suprahero said:
Will, I'm doing my wifes in a weekend, but I'm not going with a metal hg. Hers didn't blow either. It tore while retorqing the head. I'm replacing it with a toyota hg. I have never used a metal hg, but I've read numerous times that both surfaces have to be machined for optimum performance and safety. I hope it goes smoothly for you...............lol

Now are you resurfacing the head and block? Or jsut the head?

Or neither?

:1zhelp:
 

suprahero

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Neither......The head is brand new. Actually the whole engine is new. I retorqued the head because I read that your suppose to after a few miles. The gasket that was on there tore in the back so I replaced it with a new oem gasket. If I was going to put a metal one on, I would have them both machined, but I trust the toyota gasket. Her car has never ran hot, so I should be o.k....................lol

I also retorqued it because I didn't know what the shop had torqued them to.............lol
 

phoenix6

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Im gonna guess just his head, most people get it done so fast bc they just do the head, most of the time the block doesnt need it. Only in a full rebuild do I ever hear people doing the block too, bc they get it honed as well. Its a bitch to do both, check the flatness of the block when you pull your head, get the head done, if the block is flat, should be ok, get a MHG and ARP studs. Torque to 85lbs and you should be good.

Im gonna get flammed for that advice Im guessing, Im just going by what I normally hear...Im doing both but its a full rebuild, no BHG
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Sigh! :3d_frown:

MHGs come with a spec sheet and instructions...read and heed...especially the RA spec. The RA spec applies to BOTH the head and block surface. You may have to remove rivets from the MHG. And don't use spray sealer on a new MHG...it can destroy the factory coating.

ARP bolts/studs come with a torque spec sheet...read it...do not over torque and don't follow hearsay. ARP has engineers that have figured this all out. Pay attention to the lube use on the hardware...it changes the torque value used.

Two people can pull a motor and re-install in a weekend easy...read the TRSM and have your ducks in a row. I'd pull the motor with the tranny attached...I think it's easier to do that way.
 

jdub

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Jeez Man...I'm starting to sound like a broken record...I say this a couple of times a week. Heck, I've posted the spec sheets I don't know how many times. Is it that hard to read the instructions?!?!?