As painful as this thread was to read I'll offer a bit of advice: The code 24 has nothing to do with your problem. Not that it shouldn't be fixed but focusing on it is a mistake...
Having problems running please help!
- Thread starter Carfreak70852
- Start date
Okay, thats fine. I guess I just need to know where do I go from here? What do I buy next? What do I try next?
Carfreak70852;1316073 said:
I don't claim to know everything but my car had those exact same symptoms and my AFM was clogged with oil and I sprayed alittle bit of carb cleaner in there and sprayed it out with air and my car started to idle. Its worth a try what do you have to loose/
I guess it never hurts to try haha. I just don't know what to do. I feel like it's something dumb and small causing everything to go wrong with the car. Anyone got a working AFM or ECU I can borrow? I've got plenty of people who can vouch for me I'm not gonna steal it. I'll pay shipping both ways of course, but I need to make sure they worked on your car if you want to do that. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow afternoon. It seems like the car isn't getting the mass air reading bc it runs EXACTLY the same if I just unplug the thing, but I made damn sure it was getting voltage and it is. Also there is a small 1 wire comming off near where the AFM is. Should that be what's causing my problems? I'll take a pic of it. According to the AFM plug, it's still getting juice so I know it's not a power cord thing. Let me know please 
alright I got some pics of the two wires im talking about. I dont know if they will help or not, but I guess the need to be put back together.
ALSO when I try to start my car, I can floor it and nothing will change, I can unplug the AFM and nothing will change. WHATS GOING ON?
ALSO when I try to start my car, I can floor it and nothing will change, I can unplug the AFM and nothing will change. WHATS GOING ON?
I'd say one of them is your temp sensor, not sure about the blue one though.
I wouldn't spray carb cleaner on your afm, apparently its not good for it.
I wouldn't spray carb cleaner on your afm, apparently its not good for it.
I would assume that those are your stock wires for the water temp sensor. Your ECU needs a response from those. Your car is running is safe mode without it. You also need to get that BVSV (blue sensor with 2 long vacuum hoses) hooked up. This is why you are smelling fuel. One of those vacuum lines comes from the charcoal canister.
***EDIT***
After looking back over the video, I see you have no charcoal canister. I'm not wise enough to warn against that, so I won't. Also, your unplugged connectors in the corner by the brake booster are because you have no cruise control unit there. No problems will come from that, but that's why the connectors are there. And, you mentioned none of your gauges work. Your ECU needs a Tach signal. I don't know if it is getting it or not. I think the signal, and function of the gauge are totally separate.
***EDIT***
After looking back over the video, I see you have no charcoal canister. I'm not wise enough to warn against that, so I won't. Also, your unplugged connectors in the corner by the brake booster are because you have no cruise control unit there. No problems will come from that, but that's why the connectors are there. And, you mentioned none of your gauges work. Your ECU needs a Tach signal. I don't know if it is getting it or not. I think the signal, and function of the gauge are totally separate.
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Geez.
Gas in your oil reduces the lubrication effects of oil, and could wreck your bearings. I can't really tell by the video, but it sounds like something is knocking...could just be my imagination.
Running rich: check the FPR...if it's not that, the AFM could be getting a bad reading, the O2 sensor could be damaged (mine has trouble starting 1/50 tries because the wiring is old), or a handful of the injectors could be spraying too much (unlikely).
DON'T spray carb cleaner into your AFM FOR ANY REASON. It will not work afterwards. How SupraT got his to work is beyond me.
Post #45: where is your power steering resorvoir?
As someone else said, your charcoal canister is missing...I'm not an expert on it either, but I'm pretty sure the ports that it uses have to be blocked off a certain way for it to function without it.
As for your wiring harness woes...it looks like a birds nest in there unfortunately That'll be a pain to fix in the long run.
Check your vacuum lines first, search and find what ports need to be capped off for the charcoal canister to be properly removed. Check FPR. Check AFM. Check for boost leaks (pressure test). After you get the rich condition straightened out, change your oil, and don't drive it before you do.
Gas in your oil reduces the lubrication effects of oil, and could wreck your bearings. I can't really tell by the video, but it sounds like something is knocking...could just be my imagination.
Running rich: check the FPR...if it's not that, the AFM could be getting a bad reading, the O2 sensor could be damaged (mine has trouble starting 1/50 tries because the wiring is old), or a handful of the injectors could be spraying too much (unlikely).
DON'T spray carb cleaner into your AFM FOR ANY REASON. It will not work afterwards. How SupraT got his to work is beyond me.
Post #45: where is your power steering resorvoir?
As someone else said, your charcoal canister is missing...I'm not an expert on it either, but I'm pretty sure the ports that it uses have to be blocked off a certain way for it to function without it.
As for your wiring harness woes...it looks like a birds nest in there unfortunately
That'll be a pain to fix in the long run.Check your vacuum lines first, search and find what ports need to be capped off for the charcoal canister to be properly removed. Check FPR. Check AFM. Check for boost leaks (pressure test). After you get the rich condition straightened out, change your oil, and don't drive it before you do.
Running super rich will foul your plugs pretty quickly, and also not be good for your O2 sensor.
I think my harness is completely gone. It sucks. Oh well im taking that damn 7M out and going 2jzGE and then turbo from there. I think thats my best option right now.
I like to try to help when I can. You may read this statement as rude, but it genuinely is meant as help.
If you can't make a 7m run........how in the hell are you going to wire in a 2JZ? The problem here is NOT the 7M
If you can't make a 7m run........how in the hell are you going to wire in a 2JZ? The problem here is NOT the 7M
:nono:Another "7m sucks thread":nono:
Like I said in my first post, work on one problem at a time dude.
Like I said in my first post, work on one problem at a time dude.
haha its all good and I know its not the 7M. Im getting a whole new wiring harness (as i made a thread for one in the parts wanted section and im thinking about throwing that on the car and see if that fixes everything and if not then im going to wire in a 2jz. Im going to get some help from Deadcell when I need it. If he can put a GTE in his car, im sure we can get a GE running haha.
Oh, and I dont nessisarily think the 7M sucks...i like the sounds of 1/2jz motors...dont ask why I just like it...
Oh, and I dont nessisarily think the 7M sucks...i like the sounds of 1/2jz motors...dont ask why I just like it...
Idle control computer? Really? Besides, he's probably got the car fixed by now or long ago sold the thing...
no jj hes correct
the idle air control computer is bad
ya know the 1 thingy mounted inside the supercharger
the idle air control computer is bad
ya know the 1 thingy mounted inside the supercharger