has anyone relocated their coil on a n/a

S

supraduper

New Member
Jun 7, 2009
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merrimack nh
i just did so and i am please it came out so nice... and was very easy

it started out b/c i thought i had a bad/weak coil... so i grabbed a universal accel coil off the shelf and quickly wired it up to see if it worked and was better than the oem... and after the test drive it was noticeably better, no more flat spot and felt smoother at higher rpms...

so i couldnt keep the now, clyindrical (sp) coil in the old square mount, so i thought that i could move it over to the other side of the bay and while doing so shorten the coil wire to the distributor at the same time(that wire really bothered me).

made a mount for it and ran the wires.... found a spare wire kicking aroud in my test parts bin, hooked it up and drove it... the shorter coil wire didnt make a huge difference but im stil happy..


i am just curious if anyone else happened to want to do this and done it..

anyone think its a bad idea for any reason? other than calling me dumb b/c its not stock
 
S

supraduper

New Member
Jun 7, 2009
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merrimack nh
i am going to post pics when i get home... i am at work and the damn firewall here is bullshit!

and i've certainly seen many posts where guys get flamed for doing things, that are seen as unnecessary
 
S

supraduper

New Member
Jun 7, 2009
126
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merrimack nh
the oem coil has 3 connectors, but the harness only has 2 wires... not sure what the extra connector on the coil is for... maybe another application or tach signal? no idea.

upon further thought i am not sure if i would recommend the accel coil... as the primary coil resistance is higher than the oem coil and therefore would theoreticaly produce less voltage in the secondary windings... so maybe a good MSD coil would be a better option... at least that is my next course of action
 
stomis

stomis

NA Die Hard
Mar 22, 2010
68
0
0
35
Jersey Shore
supraduper;1549873 said:
the oem coil has 3 connectors, but the harness only has 2 wires... not sure what the extra connector on the coil is for... maybe another application or tach signal? no idea.

upon further thought i am not sure if i would recommend the accel coil... as the primary coil resistance is higher than the oem coil and therefore would theoreticaly produce less voltage in the secondary windings... so maybe a good MSD coil would be a better option... at least that is my next course of action
Click to expand...

I'd like to do this but plan on using either an MSD or MSD streetfire offbrand
 
RazoE

RazoE

Boobs/Boost, my favorite
Jun 13, 2006
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3
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Los Angeles
www.cafepress.com
I'm currently having an MSD igniter put on my 86.5 while it's in the shop receiving its engine swap, but once I get it out, I'll try to throw on some pics..


it came off a running 86.5, so it definitely works, but one of the 3.5mm sparkplug boots was ripped, so we're using stock wires in the mean time...
 
dsm_tuner260

dsm_tuner260

New Member
Nov 1, 2009
138
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
i bought the msd coil for my car i was goin to mount it on my firewall where the charcoal canister was. ill post pics when i get done with it been busy at work havent had time yet
 
dsm_tuner260

dsm_tuner260

New Member
Nov 1, 2009
138
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
ok so i got movitavated to atleast mount mine today and found a good spot for it on the pass strut tower theres 3 holes and 2 of them are perfect for the msd bracket
theres a picture where i mounted it no wires ran but i like where it is sitting
 

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Asterix

Asterix

Lurker of Power
Mar 31, 2005
469
36
28
Vienna, VA
dsm_tuner260;1552215 said:
ok so i got motivated to at least mount mine today and found a good spot for it on the pass strut tower theres 3 holes and 2 of them are perfect for the msd bracket
theres a picture where i mounted it no wires ran but i like where it is sitting
Click to expand...

That's where the ABS pump sits, for those of us with ABS... At least one of those holes is threaded already.

Asterix
 
dsm_tuner260

dsm_tuner260

New Member
Nov 1, 2009
138
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
lol yea only opition my car had was the targa lol no abs no tems. i gues it also had auto opition if you consider it an option but i got rid of auto. they where all threaded i just ran out of lunch time to put the second bolt in thats why you dont see a bolt there. it did make a somewhat noticable difference in the higher rpms not so much the lower. only way id really recommend doin this mod is if you are truely wantin to stick na or your coil went out and your not doing a motor swap right now.
 
S

supraduper

New Member
Jun 7, 2009
126
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merrimack nh
yea i moved the harness thats bolted up more towards the front (next to the tower) and bolted it where you bolted yourcoil.. so i could have the coil closer to the distributor cap....

also i find worth noting that the aftermarket cap and rotor for this car are not built correctly, and im sure some of you will agree that you should stick with oem. the cap and rotor from the dealer cost like $20.. so its worth going oem.... the aftermarket cap and rotor gave me drivability issues, as the contact point on the rotor doesnt line up correcty with the contact button on the cap... when installed, the button on the cap was half off the contact point on the rotor. stupid aftermarket shit... i need to post pics of this too..

---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 AM ----------

dsm could you do me a favor and measure the resistance in your coils primary winding? im curious how many ohms it is.... if you dont know how its the resistance between the two connectors that the cars harness connects to... thanks
 
stomis

stomis

NA Die Hard
Mar 22, 2010
68
0
0
35
Jersey Shore
supraduper;1553819 said:
yea i moved the harness thats bolted up more towards the front (next to the tower) and bolted it where you bolted yourcoil.. so i could have the coil closer to the distributor cap....

also i find worth noting that the aftermarket cap and rotor for this car are not built correctly, and im sure some of you will agree that you should stick with oem. the cap and rotor from the dealer cost like $20.. so its worth going oem.... the aftermarket cap and rotor gave me drivability issues, as the contact point on the rotor doesnt line up correcty with the contact button on the cap... when installed, the button on the cap was half off the contact point on the rotor. stupid aftermarket shit... i need to post pics of this too..

---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 AM ----------

dsm could you do me a favor and measure the resistance in your coils primary winding? im curious how many ohms it is.... if you dont know how its the resistance between the two connectors that the cars harness connects to... thanks
Click to expand...


It also does depend alot on what aftermarket you go with but for $20 you cant beat OEM.
 
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