Harness Bar Pics

northwestsupra

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Sep 19, 2006
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i can take a guess that the weakest point is where the bolt is that goes from the stock seat belt mounting point to the main bar "in the blue one" as for mine, the pipe itself is a soild steel pipe. welded to uh i forget but i know it was a bitch to bend lol. lots of hitting with a hammer. and as for the mounting bolt, its the stock bolt torqued up past i think 70-80 ft. lbs i dont remember so long ago
 

GrimJack

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northwestsupra;1500678 said:
you mean the rear seat you can fit midgets with stubs for legs?
That's the one. I have children. And I do actually put adults back there... once every couple years, I guess.

I might be willing to sacrifice the rear seat... but I'll go kicking and screaming.
 

MDCmotorsports

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Supra28;1500685 said:
I honestly don't know much about harness bars, so I have to ask. What's wrong with harness bar pictured in blue?

I plan to get one too and want to make sure I do things the right way.

Those style harness bars are known for failing under impact.

Under a forward impact, the bottom "riggers" or "connection bars" actually break center and allow the bar to rotate forward thus allowing the harnesses to release the driver.

The driver meets the dash, steering wheel, and windshield. The rest is not pretty.

northwestsupra;1500691 said:
i can take a guess that the weakest point is where the bolt is that goes from the stock seat belt mounting point to the main bar "in the blue one" as for mine, the pipe itself is a soild steel pipe. welded to uh i forget but i know it was a bitch to bend lol. lots of hitting with a hammer. and as for the mounting bolt, its the stock bolt torqued up past i think 70-80 ft. lbs i dont remember so long ago

I really hope you're joking. No seriously. Please tell me you don't only have TWO ANCHOR points.
 

Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

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Jun 22, 2006
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If your going all out 100% pro full on regulation ditch the rear seats and install a complete welded cage.

Semi pro/street keep usable rear seat method.
You can anchore your harness to the factory seat bolt holes on the outside shoulder to the factory B pillar mounts.
Mount the lap belts to the factory lap belt bolt holes on both sides as well.

At this point you have 3 points using factory anchors works fine.
For the 4th point for center shoulder belts anchor them to specification to the frame in front/under the rear seats close wo where they meet the tunnel.

This gives it 100% working function & allows for room in the back like the factory design.

The only problem is you have lossen the belt when sliding the front seats.

So either full cage with anchors and rear seat delete or factory with 1 mount added.

The bar your looking at is more for show and makes the rear seats useless and is dangerous your better off going full cage before adding a long bar that disables the rear seat that just bolts in.
 

SupraMario

I think it was the google
Mar 30, 2005
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MDC where can I find one of your bars, you stopped making them when I had the moneys for it.
OR
Make me one! PLEASE! pretty please! pretty pretty please!
 

toyzforme

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Jan 1, 2008
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MDCmotorsports;1500877 said:
Those style harness bars are known for failing under impact.

Under a forward impact, the bottom "riggers" or "connection bars" actually break center and allow the bar to rotate forward thus allowing the harnesses to release the driver.

The driver meets the dash, steering wheel, and windshield. The rest is not pretty.



I really hope you're joking. No seriously. Please tell me you don't only have TWO ANCHOR points.

The titan bar looks and mounts just like that blue bar pictured, so I can't see Titam selling a death contraption
 

gaboonviper85

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Jan 13, 2008
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toyzforme;1501381 said:
The titan bar looks and mounts just like that blue bar pictured, so I can't see Titam selling a death contraption

I can...

I bet titans race cars don't have Titan harness bars installed;-)

the bar itself is fine....but I'd beef up those supports with the same size tubeing as the bar itself....
 

hvyman

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the titan bar mounts differently. the bar itself is closer to the front seats. the blue one is almost touching the back seats.
 

supraguru05

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I would not run with a harness bar, namly because the belt angles would be very tough to get right. also DO NOT RUN A 4 point harness unless you want to slide under the belts.
 

WillieLZG

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Feb 12, 2008
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supraguru05;1501434 said:
I would not run with a harness bar, namly because the belt angles would be very tough to get right. also DO NOT RUN A 4 point harness unless you want to slide under the belts.
So 4pt harness no good because you will slide out but what is stopping us from sliding out all car seatbelts since since nothing is retaining us underneath anyways.

My opinion is that proper 4pt harness will retain you better then stock seatbelt will. As for the titan motorsports bar i was thinking of buying it but now it sounds like it's more like a titan death bar if you get in a accident. So i'll look into the bars design more thoroughly and see whats best for my safety.
 

northwestsupra

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Sep 19, 2006
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yea see now mdc got us all scared for our lives lol. i think im re-doing mine now lol. with specs he posted

Your harness bar needs to be welded or bolted into a MINIMUM OF 4 MAIN CHASSIS POINTS.

Four great points would be the rear bottom and front side seat belt bolting / anchor points.

This harness bar's main bar needs to be a minimum of .095" 4130 or .120" DOM, 1 3x4".

The plates need to be no thinner than 1/4", mild steel.

The runners that connect the main bar to the lower rear seat belt points need to be a minimum of 1 1/4" x .095" 4130 or .120" DOM.
 

northwestsupra

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Sep 19, 2006
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oh and yea thats what the 5th point is for. submerging. thats why i have a 5 point system :p i'd rather my balls take the damage than my knees. at least my balls will save me money on condoms lol
 

northwestsupra

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Sep 19, 2006
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/\/\/\/\/\
this is very correct. hence why i got me new seats fitted for 5 point harness's and i dont even know why people would wear them loose i love that tight held feeling when all i know that will move are my legs straight out. arms straight out. and my neck that will most likely get whip lash :icon_bigg

i guess the motto of the day will be what is the price on your life?

and if you have passengers

are you willing to risk your life and others in the vehicle because you wanted to look cool or be cheap?

anyways end plot is, if you cant afford it, dont do it. have the money first then do the work. dont pay throughout time or make things a "project" lol <we all know how that ends haha. poor and a supra in a garage for a long period of time.
 

Enraged

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Mar 30, 2005
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northwestsupra;1501574 said:
yea see now mdc got us all scared for our lives lol. i think im re-doing mine now lol. with specs he posted

Your harness bar needs to be welded or bolted into a MINIMUM OF 4 MAIN CHASSIS POINTS.

Four great points would be the rear bottom and front side seat belt bolting / anchor points.

This harness bar's main bar needs to be a minimum of .095" 4130 or .120" DOM, 1 3x4".

The plates need to be no thinner than 1/4", mild steel.

The runners that connect the main bar to the lower rear seat belt points need to be a minimum of 1 1/4" x .095" 4130 or .120" DOM.

So 1-3/4" .095" 4130 or .120" DOM for the main bar
and 1-1/4" x .095" 4130 or .120" DOM for the lowers.

Thanks

I found this site awhile ago, has some nice stuff if you want to fab your own: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/

Just FYI, Nashman welded in a bar about where the harness bar is located, and he said it greatly increased the stiffness of the car, and his was a hardtop. It would likely help even more in a targa car.