Harmonic Balance Bolt BROKE!!!

88t

HATE EM, BUT LOVE THEM
Oct 13, 2008
94
0
0
Juneau, Alaska 99801
Hey guys,

I used the starter method to get the harmonic balancer bolt off and guess what, it broke, lol. so, my question is has anyone experenced this before? Whats the best possible outcome? tips, tricks, tools needed to extract that bolt?

p1684892_1.jpg

p1684892_2.jpg
 
Last edited:

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
0
0
Queens, NY
Drill a hole in the crank and then get a stud extractor and use it.

You can also get someone who has a welder to weld the bolt back on. Gas or tig welding will be best there. Then soak the bolt with WD-40 and try to get it loose with the car in gear and a 1/2 breaker bar.
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
3
38
56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
Yes, we've seen this before. It's no fun getting that out without pulling the crank, but it can be done.

Problem is, that bolt is hardened steel, so drilling it isn't going to be fun. And chances are it's going to be stuck in there good enough to break any extractor you try. Some good thread penetrating oil is highly recommended, and let it sit for a day or two, you might get lucky.

Worst case, you can have a snout machined that fit precisely over the end of the crank, with exactly the right size hole in the center, use that as a guide to drill out the bolt. That's what we used when Duane's engine decided to weld the stock damper to the end of the crank... it took forever, but it worked.
 

88t

HATE EM, BUT LOVE THEM
Oct 13, 2008
94
0
0
Juneau, Alaska 99801
Thanks for the replys. I didnt think that bolt was hardened steel, that makes it even more difficult! Im wondering if i can heat it up with my propane torch? Would it hurt anything? I sprayed it with penetrating oil and its been on it for about 11 hrs or so.

GrimJack- Do you still have that tool that i can borrow?
 

radiod

Supramania Contributor
Dec 13, 2007
1,342
0
0
38
Abbotsford, BC
Heating the bolt would make it more difficult to come out. Heat makes things expand and the bolt is INSIDE what you're trying to extract from. Typically you'd want to head the outside of what you're trying to get the bolt out of to make that expand a bit, and then thus easier to thread out. I wouldn't be heading the crank up to those temperatures though....just seems like a bad idea to me. Someone else can chime in if it's not a problem.
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
3
38
56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
88t;1685021 said:
GrimJack- Do you still have that tool that i can borrow?
I didn't have it to begin with... that was Duane's car, and the tool came from a friend of his that works in a machine shop. I suspect that borrowing it for a weekend is significantly easier than shipping it internationally!
 

88t

HATE EM, BUT LOVE THEM
Oct 13, 2008
94
0
0
Juneau, Alaska 99801
ok guys i got the damn thing out! after breaking 4 ratchets, buying a extractor set (which didnt work) i ended up having a stud extractor that fit. I hooked it up with my 4 foot breaker bar with my wife holding the brakes and it came out! I did heat it up for about 30 mins with my little propane torch.

Threads were all mauled, so with that said, anyone know what size tap i need for the crank shaft?

thanks for everything guys!
 

suprarich

Guest
Nov 9, 2005
2,187
0
0
ohio
Ahh yes, fun job! But my post was halfway aimed at others who would read this thread and may not have the goal of changing seals, but to just remove the pulley. Then would find a horrid leak later from a half melted front seal.