gurgling noise in morning?

[grimreaper]

cold START injector. its in the name it self.

and there is an air temp sensor, built into the afm electronics case itself.
and cars run rich at start up to get them to operating temps faster,

jj knows the ecu and its parameters like nobody else ive ran across, or ever will for that matter

common sense isnt a class they have at UTI

 

[rawmk3]

cold START injector. its in the name it self.

and there is an air temp sensor, built into the afm electronics case itself.
and cars run rich at start up to get them to operating temps faster,

jj knows the ecu and its parameters like nobody else ive ran across, or ever will for that matter

common sense isnt a class they have at UTI

Ok that just seemed to prove my point right there. The cold start injector is there to help fire the car, and produce that richened mixture to reach operating temperature. At which point it isnt needed anymore, and thus stops working. Causing the idle to kick down. Similar to the way a choke on old cars with carberators worked. Starving the motor of air making it run richer to get to an operating temperature faster. and once you are at an appropriate temp, the rich state is no longer needed and thus stops. Because in the TSRM is even says you can hear the cold start injector working on a cold start. That is how you can "listen to the injector" with a mechanics stethoscope. And once a preset temp is reached, it stops injecting fuel, and stops working. Am I seriously that misinformed? Do I need to find me a common sence class? Cause common sence says you just agree'd with me, while trying to disagree. Is anyone else as confused as I am?

 

[jetjock]

No, it's just you. The problem is you're trying to apply generalities to a specific car. That's useless, even harmful, in a Tech forum dedicated to a specific car. Less posting and more reading of the manual is recommended.

It's "sense" btw...

 

[rawmk3]

No, it's just you. The problem is you're trying to apply generalities to a specific car. That's useless, even harmful, in a Tech forum dedicated to a specific car. Less posting and more reading of the manual is recommended.

It's "sense" btw...

Then explain and educate me. I will have no problem listening to your information about this specific car. And I know its sense. next time i'll put cents in and see who notices. All im asking for is that you tell me how im wrong, and educate me as to what the purpose is. Cause I have the TSRM on fav links, and the haynes manual for the car sitting right next to me.

 

[jetjock]

And what do those pubs tell you about how the CSI works on this car, keeping in mind your previous comments?

 

[antman]

hi my name is jeremy a purchased a 1989 toyota supra turbo
about a month ago and i have recently noticed a noise when i start it up in
the morning when i head to work
it has a gurgling noise behind the dash for about 5-10 seconds and then
it goes away. Is this a blown head gasket. Is there any way i can find out with out having to spend lots of money. I can not do a home compression test i do not have the tools or know how for that matter

I am not even going to get into the conversation going on now...MAN!

But, it is possible and likely that you have a pin hole leak or small leak somewhere causeing you to draw in air as the engine cools.

 

[rawmk3]

The cold start valve is essentially constructed the same as the regular fuel injectors. The main difference is that the cold start valve injection time is measured in seconds rather than in milliseconds like the regular injectors.

The cold start valve receives power from the double relay when the key is in the start position but only injects fuel into the intake air distributor when the cold start valve is grounded by the thermo-time switch.

The purpose of the cold start valve is to inject fuel into the intake air stream when the engine is cold (and the starter operating) in order to richen the fuel/air mixture for easier starting.

It can be tested in the same manner as the other injectors. Leakage is undesirable as it will cause the engine to run rich.


That is a direct copy of words that explain what a cold start injector is doing duty wise.

 

[rawmk3]

Remove the cold start injector from the intake manifold, place the nozzle in a safe container and crank the engine. If the temperature of the engine is below 95 degrees, the cold-start injector should spray. If it does not, connect a test light to each of the two terminals of the injector and crank the engine.

If one terminal activates the light but the other does not, replace the cold-start injector.

If both terminals activate the light, inspect the wiring between the cold-start injector and the thermo-time switch. If the wiring is OK, replace the switch.

If neither terminal lights up the light, repair the wiring harness between the starter solenoid and the cold-start injector.

And this is from bosch L-jetronics. The cold start injector is there to help start the car, and get it to approx 95 degrees.

 

[grimreaper]

The cold start valve is essentially constructed the same as the regular fuel injectors. The main difference is that the cold start valve injection time is measured in seconds rather than in milliseconds like the regular injectors.

The cold start valve receives power from the double relay when the key is in the start position but only injects fuel into the intake air distributor when the cold start valve is grounded by the thermo-time switch.

The purpose of the cold start valve is to inject fuel into the intake air stream when the engine is cold (and the starter operating) in order to richen the fuel/air mixture for easier starting.

It can be tested in the same manner as the other injectors. Leakage is undesirable as it will cause the engine to run rich.


That is a direct copy of words that explain what a cold start injector is doing duty wise.

 

[rawmk3]

Wow, you pointed out that it is MAINLY FOR WHEN STARTING. But it is also in use during operating conditions below 90-95 deg F. Grim, you should verrify your own work too. That way you would have something intelligent to come back with. This is becoming a battle of whitts against unarmed people. Your telling me that im correct that the cold start injector is there to help start the car, but your failing to understand HOW IT HELPS START THE CAR. Let me give you a little hint. IT ADDS FUEL, MAKING THE MIXTURE FUEL RICH, CAUSING THE CAR TO FIRE UP. Then it runs for a short time as well to help reach operating temperature 90-95 deg F, at which time the thermo sensor cuts off the ground feed, and the injector stops pumping fuel into the intake. And its determined on the coolant temp, which is why its behind the thermostat, and goes off the heads temp. Once the coolant in the head reaches the correct temp the injector is cut off, and fuel isnt injected. Meaning the richened state is stopped. ANY QUESTIONS? Do i need to draw pictures? Should I get some crayons?

 

[rawmk3]

I am not even going to get into the conversation going on now...MAN!

But, it is possible and likely that you have a pin hole leak or small leak somewhere causeing you to draw in air as the engine cools.

And its possible he would have a hole, but he would notice coolant levels eventually going down. If that isnt the case, he prolly needs to burp his system, and or back flush it to clean out the crap that is in the water jackets of the motor and heater core. Over time things like calcium create deposits in the block since most people dont bother getting bottled water that is deionized (i think thats the right kind) to put in their motor. The water is most kind of bottled waters, and they are used to help cut down on rusting abilities, and it also keeps out crap like calcium and lime that is in most tap water. If there are blockages, or partial blockages, the water pump wont have the pressure power to blow em out. A back flush helps do so. although it wont take everything out. It will help keep your system flowing correctly tho. I prefer to do a back flush before every winter, and then set my coolant mix for my temp climate approx 50/50.

 

[bigaaron]

 

[rawmk3]

LMFAO. That is just funny. :biglaugh: Glad I got my MHG from you, just hope it wasnt one on the floor. LOL

 

[bigaaron]

I just laugh every time I read another "bhg denial" thread. :biglaugh:

"you gotta burp it dude" :sarcasm:

7M = MHG, ARP and a good SMOOTH surface on the head AND block FTW!

 

[gaboonviper85]

Wow, you pointed out that it is MAINLY FOR WHEN STARTING. But it is also in use during operating conditions below 90-95 deg F. Grim, you should verrify your own work too. That way you would have something intelligent to come back with. This is becoming a battle of whitts against unarmed people. Your telling me that im correct that the cold start injector is there to help start the car, but your failing to understand HOW IT HELPS START THE CAR. Let me give you a little hint. IT ADDS FUEL, MAKING THE MIXTURE FUEL RICH, CAUSING THE CAR TO FIRE UP. Then it runs for a short time as well to help reach operating temperature 90-95 deg F, at which time the thermo sensor cuts off the ground feed, and the injector stops pumping fuel into the intake. And its determined on the coolant temp, which is why its behind the thermostat, and goes off the heads temp. Once the coolant in the head reaches the correct temp the injector is cut off, and fuel isnt injected. Meaning the richened state is stopped. ANY QUESTIONS? Do i need to draw pictures? Should I get some crayons?

You need a spoonfull of STFU!!

 

[jdub]

Wow, you pointed out that it is MAINLY FOR WHEN STARTING. But it is also in use during operating conditions below 90-95 deg F. Grim, you should verrify your own work too. That way you would have something intelligent to come back with. This is becoming a battle of whitts against unarmed people. Your telling me that im correct that the cold start injector is there to help start the car, but your failing to understand HOW IT HELPS START THE CAR. Let me give you a little hint. IT ADDS FUEL, MAKING THE MIXTURE FUEL RICH, CAUSING THE CAR TO FIRE UP. Then it runs for a short time as well to help reach operating temperature 90-95 deg F, at which time the thermo sensor cuts off the ground feed, and the injector stops pumping fuel into the intake. And its determined on the coolant temp, which is why its behind the thermostat, and goes off the heads temp. Once the coolant in the head reaches the correct temp the injector is cut off, and fuel isnt injected. Meaning the richened state is stopped. ANY QUESTIONS? Do i need to draw pictures? Should I get some crayons?

#1 - The CSI functions ONLY during cranking. The time switch limits it's operation DURING CRANKING to prevent flooding. Once the starter is disengaged, current to the CSI is terminated.

#2 - After start enrichment takes over for a set period of time after starter operation ceases. The ECU controls this based on coolant temp.

#3 - When coolant temp is low, the ECU controls warm-up enrichment (over a longer period) by increasing injector volume. The CSI has no part (at all) in this ECU mode. Above ~70 deg C, the correction coefficient goes to 1.0 (normal ops).

Raw - I'm wondering who should be the one verifying their info here

 

[jetjock]

Jeez, another noob with a little experience who thinks he knows everything. All he had to do was look at the schematic. Maybe he can't read one. Between that and not knowing the difference between starting and warm up enrichment he ought to be asking UTI for his money back...

 

[686supra]

i have another question. when i start up my car it seems to make a stange knockin sound then it goes right away once the engine idles. :S does not make sound when driving tho, only on start up

 

[jdemara]

I just laugh every time I read another "bhg denial" thread. :biglaugh:

"you gotta burp it dude" :sarcasm:

7M = MHG, ARP and a good SMOOTH surface on the head AND block FTW!

***7M = BHG***

plain and simple.

 

[antman]

And its possible he would have a hole, but he would notice coolant levels eventually going down. If that isnt the case, he prolly needs to burp his system, and or back flush it to clean out the crap that is in the water jackets of the motor and heater core. Over time things like calcium create deposits in the block since most people dont bother getting bottled water that is deionized (i think thats the right kind) to put in their motor. The water is most kind of bottled waters, and they are used to help cut down on rusting abilities, and it also keeps out crap like calcium and lime that is in most tap water. If there are blockages, or partial blockages, the water pump wont have the pressure power to blow em out. A back flush helps do so. although it wont take everything out. It will help keep your system flowing correctly tho. I prefer to do a back flush before every winter, and then set my coolant mix for my temp climate approx 50/50.

Don't expect everyone to fullfill your need to argue.


On another note. Its surprising and disappointing to hear all this 7m slander....BUT each and to their own.