gt35r swap has begun, have a few questions

[tweak666]

I've started my gt35 swap, and while taking things off the car, a whole buch of concerns popped up. I planned on having a custom downpipe made (currently I have an HKS for the stock turbo) for the sake of ground clearance, but while pulling the downpipe, it doesnt really seem like I can get much more than a half inch closer to the body than I already am. I briefly considered the new oval tubing from vibrant, but damn that stuff is expensive. How are others dealing with it?
I had also planned on routing the wastegate into the exhaust, would I need a flex section in the wastegate dump as well?
for the intercooler pipe that crosses over the top of the turbo, will the heat it will be exposed to be detrimental to intake temps? I plan on wrapping the pipe, as well as the manifold and downpipe, and maybe thermal coating as well. would that be overkill?
whats the best way to insulate lines around the turbo?
ok, it's alot of questions, i know
hopefully, if i can borrow a camera, i'll post up the swap as i go

 

[MDCmotorsports]

I've started my gt35 swap, and while taking things off the car, a whole buch of concerns popped up. I planned on having a custom downpipe made (currently I have an HKS for the stock turbo) for the sake of ground clearance, but while pulling the downpipe, it doesnt really seem like I can get much more than a half inch closer to the body than I already am. I briefly considered the new oval tubing from vibrant, but damn that stuff is expensive. How are others dealing with it?

Make it a 3" down pipe and run with it.

I had also planned on routing the wastegate into the exhaust, would I need a flex section in the wastegate dump as well?

No. If you're good enough with the fabrication, you can put the dump pipe "hard" plumbed right back into the down pipe.

for the intercooler pipe that crosses over the top of the turbo, will the heat it will be exposed to be detrimental to intake temps?

To a point, yes. Try to run it over the compressor housing or intake, not the turbine housing.

I plan on wrapping the pipe, as well as the manifold and downpipe, and maybe thermal coating as well. would that be overkill?

Not over kill at all.

whats the best way to insulate lines around the turbo?

Make them out of stainless steel braid, and then wrap them in Earls fire sleeve.

ok, it's alot of questions, i know
hopefully, if i can borrow a camera, i'll post up the swap as i go

 

[89supra7mgte]

i just put the gt40r on mine, my cold pipe to tb is wrapped and actually stays cooler than the 57trim i had on prior. you will wanna wrap the downpipe very well or you run the chance of melting your speedo cable. Happened to my buddy when he had my setup on his car.

 

[tweak666]

Thanks guys for the input!

a couple more questions:
The manifold I'm using was resting on the stock filter head, so I figured this would be a good time to do the full flow oil system. I don't remember which thread or who said it, but it was said that the canton adapter would need to be machined to clear the manifold. does it depend on the manifold? any info on the machining?
If I run an inline filter in the turbo feed line, do I still need a restrictor?
I remember reading in a car mag about a lava rock turbo blanket, gimmick? worth it?

 

[thedave925]

PM IJ. about the adapter, he can give you the amount he shaved and where, because of that style manifold.
I have the same adapter, its close to 2" thick, but I'm still on the stock exhaust manifold with no issues.
Mine faces down, if thats any help.

I'd think the top side of the adapter would be easier to shave, although you'll still have to counter sink the perimeter where the banjo bolt goes because an o-ring seals it up.

 

[tweak666]

although you'll still have to counter sink the perimeter where the banjo bolt goes because an o-ring seals it up.

what does that mean? like just around the head beyond the perimeter of the bolt?

is there any way to avoid machining anything? like a different adapter head?

 

[thedave925]

Only under the head of the bolt, just within the flat edges of the hex head. You wouldn't know there was an oring there unless I said.
The bottom side has a flat rubber seal like those found on oil filters, that one would be a hassle to reduce material from and still have a similar mating surface.

I don't know of another adapter on market.
By the way, the threads in the block for that banjo adapter bolt are 18mm x 1.5 pitch BSP. A 3/4"x16?(revolutions per inch) NPT would fit, but the metric guarantees not splitting the block.
Which makes me wonder why i use the n/a stud, which is an adapter from one thread pitch to another, hmm..... I just went and looked:
you need the n/a stud adapter because each side of it is male threads. The canton banjo actually ends as in female to fit over the n/a stud.

I'm sure with some research you can find another block filter adapter that doesn't aim the outlets at the IC cold charge pipe if your stock exhaust mani, and is thinner than the canton while keeping the outlets out of the way of the tubular mani runners.